Question about HP Compaq Presario SR5450F Desktop PC

1 Answer

No Monitor Display on Bootup

The LCD flatscreen (Samsung) monitor test is 'good' (indicating good connectivity to the PC) but the PC is not finding the monitor on bootup. I've tried booting in 'safe' mode, with the Win7 factory OS disk and with the f10 (press for 8seconds on bootup) trick. I've even replaced the video card and still nothing, so I removed it and reconnected to the orig. video card.

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  • 8 more comments 
  • Robert Barrett Dec 27, 2012

    New mother board from Simply Tech Stuff (the link you provided) was not close to identical. No mounting holes for the processor fan, a USB instead of 6-pin connector for the keyboard, 4 memory slots instead of 2 and the wrong video monitor jack. They call it a 'generic' replacement board. I call it THE WRONG BOARD! They suggest an orig. HP replacement board. Any other low-cost outlets out there that might have the right board?

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 27, 2012

    Hmmm, apparently -> I'm the 'Simple Tech', lol! Can't find that link, in Comments. I thought I posted this? At any rate, original motherboard. Prices are a 'little' expensive. To show the original mobo again, This actually IS the best way. Reasoning is this; (Which I was going to get to), When Windows is installed on a computer, it assigns hash values to certain major hardware components. i.e., Processor, Motherboard, (To include the motherboard chipset, and BIOS program; and version and date); Harddrive, and graphics chipset. Change any two of these components, and Windows will 'think' it is being stolen. [ Microsoft User's License states, "ONE Genuine copy of Windows per ONE computer ] Windows may want to be Activated again. (Not Registered, activated. By the way, don't register. MS doesn't need YOUR personal information) By using the original motherboard, you have the original motherboard chipset, and BIOS program. (Plus version and date) IF, any problem arises you can use the Restoration Disk, and when asked choose Repair. (Non-Destructive Installation) Don't know if the Comments will continue, so may be adding a bunch of junk you don't need; If you do not have the Restoration Disk, contact HP Support. From a USA perspective; The disk is free. The shipping and handling is not. $17 for a 5 to 7 day ship; $24 for a 2 to 3 day ship. Call 800-474-6836. 24HR's a day, 7 days a week. Have the Serial Number written down, to give to the nice representative. It is in the white Service Tag, on the back of the computer. S/N = Serial Number. (DO NOT post on a public forum, such as this. ONLY give to an authorized HP representative) For other countries use HP Support Worldwide, 6-pin connector for Keyboard? Oh, the PS/2 port. (You can buy an adapter that goes from USB to PS/2, or the other way around, ) I call it the wrong board too. (Wish I had the link though, lol!) You are taking on a lot. Appreciate your patience. Can be frustrating, I know. Just got another computyer going, as the old one died on me! lol! [ So much fun(?) reloading Mozilla Firefox, JAVA, and Adobe Reader XI, plus Adobe Flash Player, and Adobe Shockwave. Lost all me bookmarks )

  • Robert Barrett Dec 27, 2012

    Thanks for the new link - the HP website link to the nearest authorized parts dealer in my area was a dead-end. They don't stock this product, so your Ebay link looks as good as anything else I could find. The photo is also very clear (the other was a photo of a plastic bag with something and I can see that it is indeed the exact board. It is 5x more expensive so I'll still try to shop around. I could buy a whole new tower for that price (maybe not new, but refurbished w/waranty). Thanks for your patience with me. Good luck with your computer woes.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 27, 2012

    Yes, I know. The price is ridiculous as previously stated. (About many Comments ago) Computer 'woes' are about over, though. Thanks. As soon as I get my second monitor going again, (RCA EN-V 26 inch HDTV), I'll be sailin' pretty smooth! lol! [ Computer geek here. Went from Pentium 4, model 540j, (3.2GHz) single-core processor, to Core2 Duo E6600. Also installed an ATI Radeon HD5450, and Thermaltake TR2 600 Watt PSU. Went from 2GB's of DDR Sdram at 400MegaHertz, to 1GB of DDR2 Sdram at 533MHz. Guess the old one had to fail, before I got off my keister, and upgraded, lol! ]

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 27, 2012

    When you replace the motherboard, use the Restoration Disk. I'm not advertising for that seller, nor Ebay. Suugest you do your homework, and see what returns are like, before purchasing. DID look to be a reputable dealer, though.

  • Robert Barrett Dec 30, 2012

    I got desperate and purchased an authorized HP used board from somewhere. Wish me luck & sorry but the OEM boards are in teh $300's.

  • Robert Barrett Dec 30, 2012

    I'm trusting the reconditioned board. Big trust issue happenin'....

  • Robert Barrett Dec 30, 2012

    on it's way any day. At least it's a match for mine visually.

  • Robert Barrett Dec 30, 2012

    and I have the Win7 Restoration CD & orig. chipset...should be ok...thanks and I'll keep you posted on the Repair command...

  • Robert Barrett Dec 30, 2012

    Should be fixed any day now...



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  • HP Master
  • 5,660 Answers

Suggest you look into the Power Supply, Robert.

No Signal; Power Saver Mode; etc, does mean the monitor is OK, just not getting a video signal from the computer.

First thing to check is the monitor cable. Substitute with a known to be good one; or use the monitor, and monitor cable on a Known to be working computer.

Next logically would be to check graphics, however;

The two main reasons for desktop computer failure, is the computer is dirty inside; and Power Supply failure.

This stands to reason, because most desktop computers are neglected; when it comes to cleaning the inside out.
Desktop computers are cooled by air inside.

(Gamer desktop computers may be cooled by Water, Refrigeration, Dry Ice, or Nitrogen. This is not a gamer computer we are discussing here)

Air flow through the computer case; and air flow for the Processor, is by fans. For the Processor; mounted directly on the finned Heatsink that sits on the Processor; or a separate front, or side case fan that blo-ws air through a plastic tuned port.

However the Power Supply also uses air flow to cool it's components; but is sadly disregarded, when it comes time to clean the inside of the computer out.

Power Supply's now, and for a long time for personal computers; are an SMPS. Switched-Mode Power Supply,

The above is the main article. Below is an enlarged view of the open case SMPS photo,

The letter B designates Electrolytic Capacitors. To be more specific Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. You are looking at a top view. These are used in the Input Stage.

In-between the letters B, and C, are finned Heatsinks.
Essentially a thin long piece of metal, that has several rectangular finned areas.
Also in-between the letters C and D.

Whatever the Heatsink is placed against, it will absorb heat from it.
The Heatsink then radiates the heat away with it's Tall, Thin fins.
Air flow from the small internal fan, helps carry heat away from the fins of the Heatsink.

As 'Gunk' builds up all around the fins; and in-between the fins of the Heatsink/s, the cooling capacity drops tremendously.
Does NOT take very much of a 'Gunk' coating to do this.
['Gunk' = Dirt, dust, lint, hair, food crumbs, name it ]

Heat = Wasted Energy
The hotter the internal components of the Power Supply become; the less able that the Power Supply will be able to keep up, with the call for power.

Eventually internal components of the Power Supply break down, and fail. The Power Supply fails.
Most often it is just a weak voltage power rail.
Still,....this does the Power Supply in, and requires replacing.

There are 3 voltage power rails for a common SMPS;
A) 3.3 Volts (DC)
B) 5 Volts (DC)
C) 12 Volts (DC)

In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts. (DC)

The three first things to check with desktop computer failure;

Is the computer dirty inside,

Remove, and reinstall the Ram Memory, to make sure it hasn't been bumped loose, (Power unplugged / Follow Anti-Static Precautions. NO. Visually inspecting will NOT do)

Power Supply.
You HAVE to know that the Power Supply is good, before you can continue on with the diagnosis.

1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is.

Product information > Product specifications > Compaq Presario SR5450 Desktop PC Product Specifications,

Processor: Intel Pentium Dual Core E2180,

Can use Up To 65 Watts. (TDP = 65W)

This is Not an invite to try repairing the Power Supply.
Replace it.
HOWEVER, this is also NOT an invite to rush out, and buy a Power Supply.

I posted this to one user, and he ran out, and bought a $150 Power Supply,


We are STILL diagnosing.

[Plus a decent, reliable Power Supply for your computer, is around $35]

My suggestion is to use an economical multimeter, and test the three main voltages coming OUT of the Power Supply,
3.3 Volts DC, 5 Volts DC, and 12 Volts DC.

An economical multimeter ranges from $5 to $12. Do Not need anything fancy. Auto parts stores, are just one place that carries them. I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.
I can guide you in using it.

Do you have a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; that you can borrow from a working computer?

The Wattage for the ATX power supply that is in it now, is 250 Watts.
Probably manufactured by one of the generic, low quality Power Supply manufacturers; Bestec, HiPro, or Delta.

[ATX refers to the Form Factor.
Form Factor was used to designate the size, and configuration of Motherboards. It has now spread to the Computer Case, and Power Supply,

Size is approximately 6 inches Wide, 5.5 inches Long, and 3.5 inches Tall.
Power cabling is also another factor ]

There is also another visual simple test you can perform, and before replacing the Power Supply with a test unit, or testing the output voltages of the Power Supply;

Check the Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard,

The Processor socket is at the Top/Middle. It is an LGA 775 processor socket,

The rounded objects to the left of the processor socket; and have a Red mark on one side, are Solid Polymer Capacitors.
Used because they do not fail as easily, as a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.

When one of these babies go bad, you KNOW it! They explode, and deliver shrapnel all over inside the computer case.
It is the Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors I would like you to look at.
L@@K close,

There are 3 to the far Left of the Solid Capacitors.
2 in-between the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable connector, and Northbridge chipset.

Square yellowish 4-socket hole connector, to the bottom left corner of Processor socket; aluminum Heatsink that has Foxconn on it. (Northbridge chip is under aluminum Heatsink)

4 surrounding the black PCI-Express x16, graphics expansion slot,
All around, and to the left of the white PCI expansion slot,
1 by the CMOS battery,
and all around the Ram Memory slots.

May not be a problem, but best to check before you get too deep.

To summarize;
Check to see if it is dirty inside,
Remove, and replace the Ram Memory module/s ('Stick'),
[Use same Ram Memory modules. You are just seeing if one, or more may be loose ]
Check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard,
Test, or use a temporary replacement Power Supply.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

By the way; what was the graphics card you removed, and what is the original one?

Original being Integrated Graphics? Plugged monitor back into motherboard I/O area?
(Input/Output area)


Posted on Dec 11, 2012

Testimonial: "This answer was extremely concise and fit for a pro PC tech. I unfortunately am not able to fully implement all of your suggestions but you have steered me in the right direction. Thanks to your advice I am replacing my power supply tomorrow and will let you know if that does the trick. If not I'll get your instructions to someone who is equipped and experienced enough to follow them. Thanks again. "

  • 11 more comments 
  • Robert Barrett Dec 11, 2012

    Hi Joe. Thanks so much for the detailed diagnosis & repair suggestions! I'm not sure how to test for bad capacitors but I imagine you take the mother board out of the unit and test the contacts on the board adjacent to the caps in question? Also, I tested the monitor with another computer and it works/responds fine. The graphics card is a MSI N210 MD512D3H (531mb memory). It has been uninstalled and the orig. card reconnected to the monitor. I also blasted the components with a dust gun so everythijng's clean. I don't smell any indication of powersupply shortages (i.e burning rubber, etc.) and the fan runs, the PC turns on/off fine, etc. So do I remove the Mother board and test for bad Radial Aluminum Caps? Thanks again for your help! Robert

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 12, 2012

    At this particular point we were going with visual indication, for the Electrolytic 'Caps', and yes I subscribe to the removal of the motherboard to look close. FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions. To actually check the capacitance of those 'Caps', they would have to be removed from the motherboard. Otherwise you pick up from the attached circuitry. NOT, a procedure I am 'prescribing' for you. Just wanted to see if those 'Caps' being used as Filters, are OK. Visual inpsection reveals no bulging, or Electroyltic Paste leakage; go on. I really suspect the Power Supply. The 24-pin ATX main power cable, is the test point. And, plugged into motherboard. Look at the photo to the right. ATX main power cable plugged in. See where the wires go into the connector? This is the Back of the connector. There are three voltages (DC) you will be testing for; ALL Orange wires are 3.3 Volts (DC) Red wires are 5 Volts. (DC) Yellow wires are 12 Volts. (DC) When you test one voltage; one wire; you are testing it's voltage power rail. Using the Orange, 3.3 Volt wires; ALL those wires go into the Power Supply, and end in one central 3.3 Volt point. This is the 3.3 Volt power rail. The same can be said for the 5 Volt power rail, (Using a Red wire), and the 12 Volt power rail. (Using a Yellow wire) When you test one voltage wire, you are testing the entire voltage power rail. Using Orange 3.3 volt wires for an example; A straightened out paperclip is inserted into the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector; RIGHT NEXT TO the insulation of AN Orange wire; and down into the socket hole. Every wire in that ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a metal female terminal, For this reason you must ensure that the straightened out paperclip goes far enough down in the socket hole, to touch that metal terminal. Now another straigtened out paperclip goes down into ANY socket hole with a Black wire in it. ALL Black wires are Ground wires. Multimeter function knob set to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line. If more than one DC Voltage scale, set it to the 0 to 50 volt DC Voltage scale. (0-50) Power Supply plugged into power, and turned on. Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches the Power wire. Therefore in this example it touches the Orange (3.3 Volt) wire. The Negative (Black) probe lead of the multimeter touches the straightened out paperclip, that is is a Black (Ground) wire socket hole. Reading should be close to 3.3 Volts. (DC) Turn off Power Supply, (Hold Power On button in for a count of 10 seconds) Now move straightened out paperclip to a socket hole with a Red wire in it. Plug power supply back into power, and turn on. Test for 5 Volts (DC) Same with the 12 volt power rail. Test a Yellow wire. (Alligator clips on the ends of the multimeter probe leads are nice to have, also) Computer unplugged from power, Anti-Static Precautions FOLLOWED, have you removed the Ram Memory modules, and reinstalled them, yet? (Also suggest cleaning the gold plated contact pins with a pencil eraser) [ Electrolytic Capacitor construction: For simplicities sake let's just say there is Electrolytic Paste inside the can case of the capacitor. When the paste goes bad, it develops a gas. Hydrogen Gas. The gas expands, and compromises seals of the capacitor's case. The Vent Cover at the Top, and the synthetic rubber Bung, at the bottom. Paste begins to ooze out. So much paste loss, and the 'Cap' operates at a weakened state. Too much paste loss, and the capacitor fails. Since they are the weakest link on that motherboard, I wanted you to inspect them. Solid caps around Processor should be fine. But then again, who knows? See any exploded ones? ]

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 14, 2012

    1) 2) 3) 4) Reading back through the prattle I typed, it's a wonder you made any sense of it at all. However I have confindence you'll find the problem. Thank you for the rating! Regards, joecoolvette

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 14, 2012


  • Robert Barrett Dec 15, 2012

    HI Joe, I've replaced the power supply and video graphics card and still no monitor signal. The power supply is now 340watt to power the new g-force MSI video card. So the problem has to be a bad capacitor. In fact there was a loud clicking sound (one click) when booting it up (before the monitor went blank). I'm assuming this could be capacitor about to die? I've never tested for bad electronic components before and am honestly afraid I'll screw something else up so do you know any reliable PC repair people you can reccommend in or near Ventura, Ca.? (zip 93001). I'd really appreciate it. Thanks for all your help!!

  • Robert Barrett Dec 15, 2012

    PS - The clicking sound is gone now that the monitor signal is dead. rb

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 16, 2012

    Robert; Thank you for the compliments. We however sir; do not seem to be communicating. I have posted twice on VISUALLY inspecting the 'caps' on that motherboard, and yet I do not seem to be getting through. With all due respect, Loud clicking sound? Again with all due respect I cannot assume. However will state that a capacitor 'popping' would make a sound like a click. Ummm, more like a pop. Look at 1:25 - 1:28, and 2:03 - 2:06 Repair shop near Ventura, California? No. I'm in the center of the USA. They will probably just recommend replacing the motherboard. More dinero, and less chance of the problem coming back. (To them under warranty) Looking at motherboard replacement examples, it seems that $129.00 to $149.00 is the norm. THEY have got to be on Crack! Lol! You can buy a motherboard that will S-M-O-K-E that P.O.S. in your computer, for less than that.

  • Robert Barrett Dec 16, 2012

    Yes you're getting through - the caps all look good: none are visibly bulging or leaking or anything. A tech at Fry's also visually inspected it and didn't notice anything out of the norm. The popping sound is the best clue I can give you. I'll check out your capacitor lab link and take another hard look at them. Would you say I could test them without risking damage to the components? Do I need any special soldering iron & magnifying glass equipment? Thanks so much for your assistance. Where would you go to purchase a new motherboard online? Rob

  • Robert Barrett Dec 16, 2012

    Ok the caps all pass my (amatuer) visual inspection - no bulging or leaning or popped-out bungs at the bottom. No discoloration or residue on the tops and no electrolyte leakage out the bottom of any of the caps.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 16, 2012

    A) Everybody following Anti-Static Precautions, to include Fry tech? (Get it? Fry tech? Ummm..........nevermind) Good job on the visual inspection. Thank you. You are my eyes and ears on that computer. Looking more, and more towards motherboard replacement, but I don't want to fail you; and not check every avenue first. Do need to stop, and ask; Have you been following Anti-Static Precautions? Out of the paper I have written (Lol!), I noticed I haven't posted this, and I sometimes overlook it. (Very rarely though) Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer. Relieve your body of Static BEFORE working on your computer. (Fine time to post now, huh?) Computer ON a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open; TOUCH an unpainted surface of the metal frame, of the open computer case. This action will relieve your body of Static. IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return. Going on. Ram Memory modules ('Stick') removed, clean the gold plated contact pins with a pencil eraser. If you are using an eraser on the end of a pencil, and not a solid eraser; refrain from letting the metal band touch the gold plated contact pins. Everywhere on the Ram Memory module, EXCEPT the gold plated contact pins; is the BODY. The Body is coated with a see-through protective plastic. General example of a Ram Memory module, as used in a desktop computer, Rub up, and down, and across ALL contact pins. BOTH sides. Use air to remove the eraser dust. If you have a can of compressed air for computers, use it. If not air pressure from your mouth will be sufficient. And last, but not least; either test the CMOS battery, or replace it. Around here they're about $2. Still no? Then suggest replace motherboard. Will be back with examples in a following Comment.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 16, 2012

    Your processor uses a Socket T processor socket. Also known as LGA 775. The Intel Pentium Dual Core E2180 processor's Front Side Bus, (FSB), is 800Megahertz. (800MHz) Ram Memory is PC2-6400, or also known as DDR2 Sdram that operates at 800MegaHertz. (800MHz) I believe this one will do it, Supports Intel processors that use an LGA 775 processor socket, and Up To 1333MHz Front Side Bus. (FSB) DDR2 Sdram ram memory at either 667MegaHertz, or 800MHz. Uses the Intel G45 motherboard chipset, Scroll down to G45 in the left column. (It's past P45) One PCI-Express x16 slot, and uses the PCI Express 2.0 technology. You WILL need the Restoration Disk, though. You are installing a new motherboard. Do you have the disk? In the US the disk is free. The shipping and handling is not. $17 for a 5 to 7 day ship; $24 for a 2 to 3 day ship. Call 800-474-6836, 24hrs a day, 7 days a week. Have the Serial Number written down to give to the nice representative. It's on the back of the computer in the white Service Tag, or up on the side of the computer tower. S/N = Serial Number. After replacing motherboard, and computer on, place the disk in the optical drive. (CD/DVD drive) When asked choose Repair. (Non-Destructive Installation) If an Activate screen comes up, post back in a Comment. THIS IS what you want to do. Call Microsoft.

  • Robert Barrett Dec 16, 2012

    I do touch the frame and don't shuffle my feet when working inside the computer. Also removed and replaced the CMOS battery but not with a new one (used the same one) so I'll need to install a new CMOS battery before I order a mother boad. I do have the Win7 OS factory restoration disk from Microsoft (32 and 64 bit disks). I'll use the 32bit. I also have my files on a backup external hard drive. Will I need to restore all my files also? So you don't suggest hiring someone to test for a bad capacitor? Thanks for all your advise so far. Very valuable info.

  • joecoolvette
    joecoolvette Dec 16, 2012

    To truly test the Electrolytic Capacitors they would have to be removed, and tested one by one. (OHM's - Multimeter) Touch the frame, and don't shuffle your feet, suggests to me a person who is savvy. Thought you were an amatuer? lol! You have more knowledge than you are crediting yourself for. An admirable person, in my book. Humble = Great power. Glad you have those disks. Another sign of an intelligent person. The solid (Polymer?) 'caps' surroundng the Processor, are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit. Part of what the motherboard voltage regulator circuit does; is to regulate voltage for the Processor. The solid caps are part of the processor's motherboard voltage regulator circuit. (The Processor MUST have a steady, 'clean', supply of voltage; and the voltage must be kept within the small tolerance range for the Processor. Cannot be too little, or too much; or BIOS will turn the Processor off. {Or won't turn it on) I'm not saying that there isn't any Electrolytic Capacitors used in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit; that may be for the Processor, too. You have to follow the Circuit Traces on the motherboard, FROM those caps, and see where they go. Circuit trace/s go to Processor socket? They are in the voltage regulator circuit for the Processor. (Circuit Trace. Also known as Signal Trace. Think very flat thin, tiny copper wires, on the motherboard. PCB, Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors can also show NO outward visual signs of failure. The Electrolytic Paste inside dries up. This action is sped up by an electronic unit not being plugged into power for quite some time. (I learned that pawn shops know this. They try to keep all electronic units plugged into power) I know it's 'killing you' to not test, and/or replace the capacitors. You have been bitten by the 'Computer Geek Bug', lol! Since it looks more, and more like you may be replacing the mobo anyway, (MOtherBOard), perhaps you may go through, remove the Electrolytic 'caps', and test them. Replace as needed. Go back through the information I stated, and you can see how to identify the manufacturer code. From there you will find the values. Capacitance, (uf - Microfarads), and Voltage. You can measure the actual physical size. (Also look at the Youtube - Afrotech - video) Anti-Static Precautions followed; motherboard in hand; I use Desoldering Braid, (Solder Wick), to remove as much solder as I can, from the leads (Think stiff wires), of the capacitor; on the bottom of the motherboard. lay a small strip tip, on the solder joint. Lay the soldering iron (25 Watt or so), on top of the solder wick. When the solder melts immediately lift the solder wick up. GO -S-L-O-W. Too long will burn the motherboard. May lift the circuit trace right off of the motherboard. You can also heat the circuit trace 'hole' too much, and it won't accept tinning. (To Tin is to lightly apply a thin coat of solder) New solder is lead free, and a BUNCH of fun(?) to work with. Practice, practice, practice, before attempting the motherboard. After removing some solder from the solder joint, allow the area to cool a little bit. Like I said, go slow. Then come back, and remove some more solder. You WON'T get it all. With as much solder removed as possible, grab the capacitor with your fingers, and thumb. The joints of your fingers, and thumb, are now going to be fulcrums. They rest against the motherboard, and allow your fingers and thumb to apply constant pressure on the capacitor. (Pulling up) Heat the solder on one lead of the capacitor. Applying pressure try to draw the lead out of the circuit trace hole, as far as you can. Will NOT be much. The other lead of the capacitor is still holding the capacitor in. Now go to the other lead, (There are only two) Heat it's solder connection (Solder Joint), and pull the capacitor some more. Keep going back, and forth; until both leads come out of the motherboard, one by one. There may be a thin skin coat of solder left behind, over the circuit trace hole. Don't worry about it. When you go to insert the new capacitor, (Trim the leads to 1 inch before installing), you heat the thin skin coat, and the lead pokes through. I use an old toothbrush, and Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol), to clean the residue off that is left. 91 percent is best, but 70 percent will do. 50 percent = no IMHO because it is 50 percent Water, and 50 percent alcohol. CAUTION!! Isopropyl alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a WELL ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present! Keep the soldering iron tip CLEAN, and well tinned. Wipe the soldering iron tip across a damp sponge. (I use a No.2 chisel tip) Use Rosin core solder, and I recommend .030, but you may want .060. (.030 = approximately 1/32nd of an Inch. .060 = 1/16th) Use Rosin flux paste also. A little dab with a paste brush will make that solder flow, and stick. Make bright shiny solder joints. If they are dull, they are Cold Solder Joints, and this = No. The solder joint should wind up looking like a 'Heshey's Kiss'. View Youtube videos on soldering, and practice on other stuff before attempting motherboard. By the time you pay someone to remove, and check the caps, you probably can buy a new motherboard, IMHO. Motherboard could also have a bad motherboard chipset. There are two on that motherboard. The Northbridge chip is under that Foxconn aluminum heatsink. There is also Thermal Paste, or Thermal Glue, that is used. Thermal Glue requires using a hair dryer on low heat, and constantly moving the hair dryer nozzle slowly, back, and forth. Softens the glue, and allows you to Gently twist the heatsink, back, and forth, to remove. Using Q-tips dipped in Isopropyl alcohol to clean, (Takes a BUNCH of them), you will see the condition of that chipset. See if it is blackened, and burned. To the left of the Processor socket are solid capacitors. (Red mark on one side) To the left of them are Chokes. Looks like a small box with a coiled copper wire in it. To the left of the Chokes are Power MOSFET's. Black square jobbies, that have 3 J-leads on one side. These are SMD/SMT. Surface Mount Device, using the Surface Mount Technology. They burn up too. They are also part of the motherboard voltage regulator circuit. If one of them is bad; give up. It's just part of the chain of bad electronic components that are going to fail. IMHO replacing is a venture in futility. Valuable info perhaps. But if none of it helps you, it is just a bunch of prattle. Regards, joecoolvette



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SOURCE: Hello, I have a HP 22w LCD monitor, running

Can you try the monitor on another computer? Also, make sure the cable is tight on the monitor side. And you also may need to replace the cable between the monitor and the computer.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: beeps 2 times & a warbling noise when trying to boot up - unplugging power lead & pressing ON/Off button & reconnecting power lead starts up OK - but it can be OK for several days & th

i think you have to check the connection cable from your HD

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

  • 2600 Answers

SOURCE: HP m7060n Media Center PC had boot problem: now won't display any

Lets try to repair it using the windows installation disc. First things first, look at the motherboard down on the right lower side. I would like you to find the CMOS jumper, it will be three pins sticking up with a plastic jumper made of plastic fit over two of the pins. I would like you to move the plastic jumper over one pin so it "shorts" the next pin over. Now power the computer up and lets see if it boots to BIOS by tapping F2 during the initial power up and splash screen...if it shows it. If it does get into the bios, go to the save page and click on "set default settings", click F10, save and exit. Power down the computer, unplug it, press in the power button for 10 seconds. This will now drain all power out of the system. Move the plastic jumper back to its original position. Plug the computer back in and power it up, go into the bios....if you are in, reset the time and date. Reboot with the windows installation disc in a drive you know works. Follow the repair fix listed below. Follow it closely, it will repair most boot errors.....

Windows Start-up Errors
Step one, you need a Windows Installation CD. If you only have a recovery disk set like the ones from HP or Compaq they will not do what you need done. Under normal circumstances however, you can use a Dell disk because the Operating system is on a stand-alone disk. All retail versions are also acceptable as well as upgrade disks. For a rule of thumb, if the disk has the Microsoft hologram it should work.
While the computer is first starting up and you see the manufacturers splash screen, tap F12 (some computers it’s F9, others it may be another key, you may have to watch and see if the computer lists the key strokes for getting to the boot menu. If you still cannot find it, boot into the BIOS settings and change your boot order there. Save your settings and exit, the computer will now seek the cd rom as its boot source first.
Place your Windows disk in the computer and start it up. When you see the test at the top of the page “Press Any Key To Boot From CD” Just hit the space bar to activate. The next screen you will see will most likely be a Windows setup screen, when you see this press the “R” key to get to the recovery console. It will get there, it may take a little time, patience. Once it loads you will be given a choice of Windows installations, there should only be one, if there are more, always pick number one. It may ask for an administrators password, if you have not set this particular password, then just leave it blank and press enter. The next prompt you see is:
You need to type the following:
cd \
hit enter. Pay close attention to the spacing between the characters. There is a space between the character “d” and the “\”
You are now at the ROOT of the drive, this is where basic commands can be given and changed. You should now see the following:
Now type the following:
Hit the enter key.
The chkdsk /r command also includes the P command and will also look for lost recoverable information in bad sectors.
There are occasions depending on how corrupt the system is, that this process could take several hours, so be patient with it.
Now, after chkdsk has run type the following:
Hit the enter key.
It may prompt you with a warning, that’s ok, just continue. When fixboot has finished, type: EXIT hit enter and windows will reboot. When the system reboots, tap the F8 key during this time and you will see the multi-boot menu come up. Scroll to the title “Last Know Good Configuration” and hit the enter key. If you were having some simple drive errors this should have fixed them.

Posted on Nov 28, 2009

SOURCE: No Video; (hp IQ770) You can hear it booting

does this unit have an external monitor connector? if it does you can use another monitor to check t he output of the video card.

other than that....I think you are headed for a repair bay somewhere.

Posted on Jun 27, 2010

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