Question about HP Compaq Presario SR5450F Desktop PC
The LCD flatscreen (Samsung) monitor test is 'good' (indicating good connectivity to the PC) but the PC is not finding the monitor on bootup. I've tried booting in 'safe' mode, with the Win7 factory OS disk and with the f10 (press for 8seconds on bootup) trick. I've even replaced the video card and still nothing, so I removed it and reconnected to the orig. video card.
Suggest you look into the Power Supply, Robert.
No Signal; Power Saver Mode; etc, does mean the monitor is OK, just not getting a video signal from the computer.
First thing to check is the monitor cable. Substitute with a known to be good one; or use the monitor, and monitor cable on a Known to be working computer.
Next logically would be to check graphics, however;
The two main reasons for desktop computer failure, is the computer is dirty inside; and Power Supply failure.
This stands to reason, because most desktop computers are neglected; when it comes to cleaning the inside out.
Desktop computers are cooled by air inside.
(Gamer desktop computers may be cooled by Water, Refrigeration, Dry Ice, or Nitrogen. This is not a gamer computer we are discussing here)
Air flow through the computer case; and air flow for the Processor, is by fans. For the Processor; mounted directly on the finned Heatsink that sits on the Processor; or a separate front, or side case fan that blo-ws air through a plastic tuned port.
However the Power Supply also uses air flow to cool it's components; but is sadly disregarded, when it comes time to clean the inside of the computer out.
Power Supply's now, and for a long time for personal computers; are an SMPS. Switched-Mode Power Supply,
The above is the main article. Below is an enlarged view of the open case SMPS photo,
The letter B designates Electrolytic Capacitors. To be more specific Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. You are looking at a top view. These are used in the Input Stage.
In-between the letters B, and C, are finned Heatsinks.
Essentially a thin long piece of metal, that has several rectangular finned areas.
Also in-between the letters C and D.
Whatever the Heatsink is placed against, it will absorb heat from it.
The Heatsink then radiates the heat away with it's Tall, Thin fins.
Air flow from the small internal fan, helps carry heat away from the fins of the Heatsink.
As 'Gunk' builds up all around the fins; and in-between the fins of the Heatsink/s, the cooling capacity drops tremendously.
Does NOT take very much of a 'Gunk' coating to do this.
['Gunk' = Dirt, dust, lint, hair, food crumbs,....you name it ]
Heat = Wasted Energy
The hotter the internal components of the Power Supply become; the less able that the Power Supply will be able to keep up, with the call for power.
Eventually internal components of the Power Supply break down, and fail. The Power Supply fails.
Most often it is just a weak voltage power rail.
Still,....this does the Power Supply in, and requires replacing.
There are 3 voltage power rails for a common SMPS;
A) 3.3 Volts (DC)
B) 5 Volts (DC)
C) 12 Volts (DC)
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts. (DC)
The three first things to check with desktop computer failure;
Is the computer dirty inside,
Remove, and reinstall the Ram Memory, to make sure it hasn't been bumped loose, (Power unplugged / Follow Anti-Static Precautions. NO. Visually inspecting will NOT do)
You HAVE to know that the Power Supply is good, before you can continue on with the diagnosis.
1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.
2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.
3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is.
Product information > Product specifications > Compaq Presario SR5450 Desktop PC Product Specifications,
Processor: Intel Pentium Dual Core E2180,
Can use Up To 65 Watts. (TDP = 65W)
This is Not an invite to try repairing the Power Supply.
HOWEVER, this is also NOT an invite to rush out, and buy a Power Supply.
I posted this to one user, and he ran out, and bought a $150 Power Supply,
We are STILL diagnosing.
[Plus a decent, reliable Power Supply for your computer, is around $35]
My suggestion is to use an economical multimeter, and test the three main voltages coming OUT of the Power Supply,
3.3 Volts DC, 5 Volts DC, and 12 Volts DC.
An economical multimeter ranges from $5 to $12. Do Not need anything fancy. Auto parts stores, are just one place that carries them. I have seen them on checkout aisle racks, in major discount stores.
I can guide you in using it.
Do you have a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; that you can borrow from a working computer?
The Wattage for the ATX power supply that is in it now, is 250 Watts.
Probably manufactured by one of the generic, low quality Power Supply manufacturers; Bestec, HiPro, or Delta.
[ATX refers to the Form Factor.
Form Factor was used to designate the size, and configuration of Motherboards. It has now spread to the Computer Case, and Power Supply,
Size is approximately 6 inches Wide, 5.5 inches Long, and 3.5 inches Tall.
Power cabling is also another factor ]
There is also another visual simple test you can perform, and before replacing the Power Supply with a test unit, or testing the output voltages of the Power Supply;
Check the Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard,
The Processor socket is at the Top/Middle. It is an LGA 775 processor socket,
The rounded objects to the left of the processor socket; and have a Red mark on one side, are Solid Polymer Capacitors.
Used because they do not fail as easily, as a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor.
When one of these babies go bad, you KNOW it! They explode, and deliver shrapnel all over inside the computer case.
It is the Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors I would like you to look at.
There are 3 to the far Left of the Solid Capacitors.
2 in-between the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable connector, and Northbridge chipset.
Square yellowish 4-socket hole connector, to the bottom left corner of Processor socket; aluminum Heatsink that has Foxconn on it. (Northbridge chip is under aluminum Heatsink)
4 surrounding the black PCI-Express x16, graphics expansion slot,
All around, and to the left of the white PCI expansion slot,
1 by the CMOS battery,
and all around the Ram Memory slots.
May not be a problem, but best to check before you get too deep.
Check to see if it is dirty inside,
Remove, and replace the Ram Memory module/s ('Stick'),
[Use same Ram Memory modules. You are just seeing if one, or more may be loose ]
Check the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard,
Test, or use a temporary replacement Power Supply.
For additional questions please post in a Comment.
By the way; what was the graphics card you removed, and what is the original one?
Original being Integrated Graphics? Plugged monitor back into motherboard I/O area?
Posted on Dec 11, 2012
Testimonial: "This answer was extremely concise and fit for a pro PC tech. I unfortunately am not able to fully implement all of your suggestions but you have steered me in the right direction. Thanks to your advice I am replacing my power supply tomorrow and will let you know if that does the trick. If not I'll get your instructions to someone who is equipped and experienced enough to follow them. Thanks again. "
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
did u replace the video card with the same kind of model ? i guess yes ... when system starts hit the f8 key and than go in to safe mode ... mouse wont work so use arrow on the keyboard .. and in the safe mode just log in to admin account if available or login to ur account and see if that still happens .. and if it doesnt ... remove the drivers for the graphic card from add and remove programs and restart the system and go in the normal mode and than install the drivers again ... and if the display disappears in the safe mode or u have install a different graphic card than ... reseat the memory cards and that should resolve the issue .... if that doesnt work out when the system starts hit f1 and stay on the BIOS screen for 30 mins if the system doesnt loose display than u need to reinstall OS ... that will surely work out ... the resolutions given above if u follow them correctly u will have a working system in no time
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
Can you try the monitor on another computer? Also, make sure the cable is tight on the monitor side. And you also may need to replace the cable between the monitor and the computer.
Posted on Jun 13, 2009
i think you have to check the connection cable from your HD
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Lets try to repair it using the windows installation disc. First things first, look at the motherboard down on the right lower side. I would like you to find the CMOS jumper, it will be three pins sticking up with a plastic jumper made of plastic fit over two of the pins. I would like you to move the plastic jumper over one pin so it "shorts" the next pin over. Now power the computer up and lets see if it boots to BIOS by tapping F2 during the initial power up and splash screen...if it shows it. If it does get into the bios, go to the save page and click on "set default settings", click F10, save and exit. Power down the computer, unplug it, press in the power button for 10 seconds. This will now drain all power out of the system. Move the plastic jumper back to its original position. Plug the computer back in and power it up, go into the bios....if you are in, reset the time and date. Reboot with the windows installation disc in a drive you know works. Follow the repair fix listed below. Follow it closely, it will repair most boot errors.....
Windows Start-up Errors
Step one, you need a Windows Installation CD. If you only have a recovery disk set like the ones from HP or Compaq they will not do what you need done. Under normal circumstances however, you can use a Dell disk because the Operating system is on a stand-alone disk. All retail versions are also acceptable as well as upgrade disks. For a rule of thumb, if the disk has the Microsoft hologram it should work.
While the computer is first starting up and you see the manufacturers splash screen, tap F12 (some computers it’s F9, others it may be another key, you may have to watch and see if the computer lists the key strokes for getting to the boot menu. If you still cannot find it, boot into the BIOS settings and change your boot order there. Save your settings and exit, the computer will now seek the cd rom as its boot source first.
Place your Windows disk in the computer and start it up. When you see the test at the top of the page “Press Any Key To Boot From CD” Just hit the space bar to activate. The next screen you will see will most likely be a Windows setup screen, when you see this press the “R” key to get to the recovery console. It will get there, it may take a little time, patience. Once it loads you will be given a choice of Windows installations, there should only be one, if there are more, always pick number one. It may ask for an administrators password, if you have not set this particular password, then just leave it blank and press enter. The next prompt you see is:
You need to type the following:
hit enter. Pay close attention to the spacing between the characters. There is a space between the character “d” and the “\”
You are now at the ROOT of the drive, this is where basic commands can be given and changed. You should now see the following:
Now type the following:
Hit the enter key.
The chkdsk /r command also includes the P command and will also look for lost recoverable information in bad sectors.
There are occasions depending on how corrupt the system is, that this process could take several hours, so be patient with it.
Now, after chkdsk has run type the following:
Hit the enter key.
It may prompt you with a warning, that’s ok, just continue. When fixboot has finished, type: EXIT hit enter and windows will reboot. When the system reboots, tap the F8 key during this time and you will see the multi-boot menu come up. Scroll to the title “Last Know Good Configuration” and hit the enter key. If you were having some simple drive errors this should have fixed them.
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
does this unit have an external monitor connector? if it does you can use another monitor to check t he output of the video card.
other than that....I think you are headed for a repair bay somewhere.
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
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