The overload light on my creda 53554060 won't turn off

OverheatingWhen the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermaloverload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is theproblem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are cloggedwith dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
If the fan and heat sink is clogged with dust the remove the dust and make surethe vents are clear and dust free. Use a small brush and can of compressed airto do this.

faulty switch

i think if its not opening u should pull harder and if it is not working there is a promblem with the machine or u should try other buttons

OverheatingWhen the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermaloverload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is theproblem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are cloggedwith dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
If the fan and heat sink is clogged with dust the remove the dust and make surethe vents are clear and dust free. Use a small brush and can of compressed airto do this.

OverheatingWhen the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermaloverload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is theproblem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are cloggedwith dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
If the fan and heat sink is clogged with dust the remove the dust and make surethe vents are clear and dust free. Use a small brush and can of compressed airto do this.

You might have a sock in the pump.
It might also be a broken coupler or a combo of the 2. The motor is overheating and shutting down on overload.. Could be a coin or something in that pump.

How it works service manual and repair videos

Let me know what ya find out

If it won't turn on it won't do anything at a higher level of function.

Perhap it's self-protecting.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

If it won't turn it won't do anything else.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

It depends on which make and model of tumble dryer you have as to how easy it is to replace the relevant parts. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious burning out or open circuit. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down we will try and cover as many as possible in or video tutorials section. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses and thermostats which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected and have a bimetal strip inside them. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter.
The problem is that if a stat (thermostat) or t.o.c. (thermal overload cut-out) has gone open circuit, it may be for a reason. Overheating could have caused it by not being able to vent the air due to a blockage some ware. Blocked filters or even the machine not being allowed its ten minute cooling down period, Overloading can cause it as well. Sometimes they can go for no apparent reason. A blocked or severely kinked vent hosecan also cause overheating.

You-Tube video "ymXmpyVkxIE" placeholder (do not delete)

Hi

If you can hear the motor running and have also checked the belt tension and they are O.K., then the only thing I can think of is the Motor pulley, where the belt sits on.

Check that out and make sure it is not loose on the motor shaft, so that the motor turns but the pulley slips.

Regards
Ash