Question about Hisense Refrigerators

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I bought hisense HR6TFF222 a month ago, and then week later there's a problem occurs on the fridge part (the lower section), it's not working very well, it's warm as in room temperature while the freezer (upper section) part is working well.

Posted by Anonymous on

  • kALTE nASE
    kALTE nASE Apr 25, 2017

    Please note,
    For the layperson (Customer), the perception can be: "the freezer-part is working well".

    How do we know that the FREEZER-part IS working well ??
    The food is frozen; You can feel the food, it is hard /solid and cold.
    Which does NOT proof, that the freezer works well. It may not.

    The temperature should be measured in the FREEZER-Partition. (IR/digital Thermometer).
    The temperature measured, is often ONLY minus -3 or -8 Degrees Celsius (Too Warm).

    It is easy to suspect,
    that the Freezer is functioning properly.

    If the FREEZER-part is working well, the Temperature should be minus -12. or -22. or about -18 Celsius ( not Fahrenheit),
    this depends on the temperature setting at the temperature Control--

    The causes can be:
    A faulty EVAPORATOR-FAN MOTOR, inside the
    Freezer. It is not rotating, the result
    will be: No cold Air flowing.

    The Cold-AIR FLOW from the Freezer to the lower Fridge-Compartment is BLOCKED-

    The EVAPORATOR in the Freezer IS ICED-UP,
    The ICE BUILD-UP is blocking the fins &
    restricting or stopping the cold air to flow
    through the evaporator.

    The ICE BUILD-UP up can be caused by:

    Problems with the 'Automatic Defrost' :

    a) A defective DEFROST HEATER,
    This causes the Evaporator to ice-up. -

    b) A faulty DEFROST-TIMER.
    It does not switch on the Heater.
    This will cause the Evaporator to
    freeze-up, after about 2 to 4 days.
    ( see 5) TIMER failure Check)

    This thermostat switches the heater off,
    to end the normal Defrosting Process.
    If faulty, the Heater is NOT switch off.
    The Heater continues to heat
    and the temperature keeps rising.
    The Thermal-Fuse will then activate, to
    prevent a fire within the Refrigerator.

    d) The THERMAL-FUSE melted, has 'activated'-
    This Fuse is a safety device, to limit
    an unsafe high temperature during the
    Defrosting Process.
    When 'activated' the Defrost-Heater stops
    heating. [ see b) ]

    If the Thermal Fuse 'activates', the
    Defrost Termination Thermostat is faulty.

    A BLOCKED DRAIN-PIPE (located in the Freezer) results in filling up the Drain-dish with condensate, which is molten ice, flowing from the Evaporator & after a few days, the Dish-Tray will overflow.

    When the Drain-Dish, which is located behind the rear wall inside the Freezer, is overflowing,
    sometimes water drops can be noticed in the Refrigerator, (the lower part) dripping from the top, near the rear wall.Or water is in the floor of the fridge.

    TIMER Failure Check
    the Timer-motor fails to rotate, Timer gears or contacts faulty-

    The timer-motor rotation can be observed through 3 or 4 small holes in the plastic case of the timer-

    It is best to first remove the thin round plastic label, that covers the holes.
    Then point a strong focussed narrow beam of light on the holes, now look through the holes.
    The armature (the part that turns) can now be
    recognised, if the light is shining at the correct angle.

    I am happy when I can help someone-
    Be kind to each other-
    Hisense Service Technician



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Ive Recently turned my fridge back on after being in storage for 6mths and it just doesnt seem to be getting cool, the temp is switching from the freezer to bottom part of the fridge.. I have warranty but i have misplaced the reciept..

Posted on Mar 21, 2016

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Ive just had the same issue as the op with the same model fridge. The warranty center said to adjust the front level feet to elivate the front of the unit open both doors , defrost for 8-12 hours at least. This seems to be a problem in the colder months of the year. Once a full defrost has occurred level the feet again , and turn your fridge back on. Problem solved

Posted on Jun 05, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Freezer and Refrigirator not cooling

You didn't say if the compressor is running or not. If it is and all other things you stated are running then it has a sealed system problem. The sealed system comes with a 5 yr warranty in most cases (check owners manual). If the compressor is not running then listen for a click at the compressor. If you hear the click then I would replace the relay on the compressor. If you need further help I will need the complete model # off the sticker inside the fridge section.

Posted on Nov 09, 2007

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You have a clogged defrost drain tube. best way is to thaw unit out. Your vents are being blocked so no air flow is pushed down.

Posted on Jan 05, 2008

  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE GSS25WGMD BB Fridge. I have already

First, when the refrigerator is running, open the freezer door and hold in the light switch so the freezer light goes out. You should be able to hear the freezer (evaporator) fan running. If it is running, then you most likely have a problem with the air damper. It is a motorized door in the very upper left side, back corner, of the fresh foods section. The door needs to be open for air to flow into the refrigerator section. If you place your hand near the vent holes at the upper refrigerator section and the freezer fan is running, FF section warm, you should feel cold air entering. If not, the damper door may have broken. It is not real easy to get at to replace, but that is where your problem may be. Be sure to check the freezer fan first, as a non-working icemaker may point in that direction.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Warm Fridge Section, Cool freezer section

Problem seems to be solved. I unplugged it for a short time and plugged it back in. I'm guessing it needed to be re-set.

Posted on Jun 12, 2009

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