Question about Worx Versacut Mini Circular Saw

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Saw stops when i start cutting 1/2 plywood.

As i am cutting into the wood product the saw seems like it is jammed or in a bind. i have use other circular saws, no problem.

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If it actually binds and stops the motor...... it sounds like the motor is bad, the bearings are bad, or the blade is on backwards. If the motor keeps spinning, but the blade stops then the gears are bad or the blade bolt is not tight.

Posted on Dec 31, 2012

Testimonial: "thanks for the help. i check bolt, seems fine. the problem now is the saw is one year old. got it last christmas. just didn't use till lately. thanks again."

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1 Answer

I was cutting a plywood and pulled the saw back through the cut, before the blade came to a complete stop. Now it will not turn on. Is there a reset switch or a failsafe that tripped when I did that?


Good afternoon Rebecca.

Some of the answer will depend on your make/model. Saws will generally have some failsafes inside to keep them from getting damaged, but lets start with what you have. You say you pulled the blade back through the cut before the blade came to a stop. That was probably OK - you generally don't want to stop the saw in the middle of material since it might pinch or jam against incoming wood.

If there is not motion, the foremost question is whether it's a saw problem or a power problem. To that end (please be careful here - unexpected saw starts can hurt you very badly)
  1. With the saw unplugged, can you move the blade at all? There may be a fair amount of resistance through the worm gear to the motor, but it should move. If it's totally jammed, you may want to try removing the blade and checking for debris jammed in the saw
  2. If the saw is plugged into another outlet that you know has power, will it turn on? If not, focus on the saw, if it works, focus first on the outlet.
  3. Is there power to the outlet? Plug something else that you know works into the outlet and see if it will turn on. If not... check if it's a GFI outlet and try resetting the breaker buton in the middle of the outlet. Then check the breaker panel that serves that plug and see if a breaker tripped. this could be particularly possible if it's a 15 amp circuit and you were, say, cutting a heavy thickness of plywood. Try re-setting the breaker then and see if the outlet turns back to life.
Some saws may have an overheat breaker, which will require you to just let the saw cool for a while. others may have a fuse, but the location will depend on the particulars of the model.

Hoping this helps.
Good Luck!
D

Nov 23, 2015 | Saws

1 Answer

Ryobi mitre saw jamming when cutting


There's a normal adjustment process of squaring the blade to the table, page 19 of your manual. If the blade is not square to the table then it will bind. Here's the link for the manual, see page 19.


http://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/400/original/TS1342_942_eng.pdf?2011

Dec 21, 2013 | Ryobi ZRTS1342L Factory-Reconditioned 14...

1 Answer

New blades, new belt.. burning the wood when I try to maky any type of cut


Is the blade the correct one for the type of wood you are cutting?? There will be recommendations on the saw blade. Finer toothed blades are for plywood, etc. Aggressive or large tooth blades are for thicker wood.

May 15, 2012 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

1 Answer

New SKILSAW 5995 used once to cut 1/4 inch plywood, no problem. Several months pass and I went to cut a pine board, the blade touched the wood and stopped. I recharged the batteries and tried again, two...


Did you fully charge both batteries before using them the first time? If not then they may not be able to hold a charge. It sounds to me like the batteries are either dead or defective as obviously the saw now doesn't have the juice to cut the board. If it's still under warranty take it back and get a replacement. Also, how powerful are the batteries? Even an 18V saw will struggle sometimes cutting a 2x4, they just don't have that much power. The plywood is easier to cut obviously.

Aug 12, 2011 | Skil Saws

1 Answer

When cutting 18mm ply wood using a straight edge after a few centimetres the cut curves under the material even with a new blade. thank you


Unfortunately that is just to thick of material to cut with a jig saw blade. Plywood is made up of several layers and your blade is trying to follow the grain on one of them. You can try a metal blade and high motor speed low travel rate, but it will quickly heat up the blade and warp it making your problem worse if you don't stop often. If you are trying to make straight and curved cuts, I have the best luck with a rotary cutter such as the roto zip, but plywood easily snaps the bits.

Mar 14, 2011 | Makita Saws

1 Answer

I'm a wife with a do-it-yourself knack. I recently purchased a Ryobi 10 in. BTS211 table saw. I find the manual complicated as far as how to actually use the device. Can you recommend where I can get...


I am a retired contractor.
I have a shop with a 10" table saw.
And I have opinions about safe operation.

For safety, turn saw off when making adjustments.

1) Raise blade:
There is a handle you turn to raise the blade.
If you are cutting 1/2" plywood, then set your blade at 3/4" or a bit more.
Keep blade low and away from hands.
Keep hands high and away from blade.

For 1-1/2" thick 2x4, I usually set the saw at 1" and run the board through, and then flip the board over and run it through again, taking 2 passes to make really thick cuts.

7c68409.jpg

2) Blade angle
There is a second handle you turn to set blade at an angle up to 45 degrees
Angle cannot be set if saw blade is fully raised >> lower blade to half way or less and experiment.
Angle cuts are difficult if wood is not perfectly flat and square, or too long or too short (boy is that helpful ... but cutting angles takes some experimentation)

3) Table Guide
You stand behind power saw to operate
The saw table guide is on left side of blade and clamps across the table
The guide markings show inches >>> these are usually approximate
To set guide for accuracy, measure distance from blade to saw guide, and then clamp guide down.

4) Push sticks push sticks push sticks and other safety stuff
Let me emphasize safety first last and always
A table saw will chop your fingers off in a blink
On the plus side, I hear it doesn't hurt. But OMG.
There is a very strong human instinct to reach in with your hand when working on stuff
Train your mind >> if the saw is running, do not lean or reach into the saw
If a board is stuck >>> turn off the saw and wait for full stop
If you wear baggy clothes of a loose shirt, the saw will grab you and pull you in too fast for you to react
Keep your clothes tight and your arms bare

Always use push sticks or push boards::
673c22b.jpg
Notice the saw blade is set low
Two push sticks are used to assist when cutting short board > one stick holds down the board ahead of blade, the other stick is pushing board through saw.
Keep your hands away from the blade no matter what.
The person stands behind and to the side of the board being cut.
The cut wood is supported by a catch table (in this case there are rollers)

Where to stand
Obviously you stand behind the saw to cut wood, and sometimes with long pieces, you can move in front and pull them through, and sometimes with large plywood you stand kinda back and to the side.

Why not stand directly behind a saw? Because saws throw stuff back.
When 'ripping' a board lengthwise as shown in photo above, if the saw catches the board just right, it will throw it backwards like a spear.

If a board 'binds' the saw causing saw blade to stop, then turn off saw, back up the board, and cut again.

Crosscut guide
The saw comes with a T-shaped guide that fits into a groove.
This is a 'push stick' >>> you use it to cross cut a board, and it lets you stand to the side of the saw blade so things wont flip back on you
When using the cross cut guide, remove the table guide that clamps across the saw, or push the table guide WAY back so pieces don't get caught in a bind and the blade flips up the piece and hits you in the face
Remember, the saw throws everything backwards

The saw is strong and fast, and you are best when traveling slow and without rush around your strong friend.

Oct 15, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Wood feels like its "pinching" between blad and fence


Possibly the problem is the wood itself. If it is burning both sides of the kerf then it is probably that your kiln dried wood is picking up moisture on the outside from the environment which causes it to bow inwards as it passes the saw. I have even had this problem with plywood. Just keeping timber in an unheated workshop for a while can cause the problem but after a few months it should equalize and the problem disappear at about 15% moisture content. (kiln dried timber should be nearer 10%)
Cut part way along a plank and then mesure the kerf at the end of the plank and at the front of the cut. if it is significantly narrower at the plank end then that is your problem.
These hard woods you mention are always a problem to cut on domestic saws at usually a maximum of 2000 watts . I use a 4500 watt motor in my saw and it will still complain at dry oak, ash and maple etc. especially if they are moving a bit as I cut them. Before I retired I had a panel saw half as powerful again as that and still those hard woods could cause trouble.

Jun 01, 2010 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

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