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BOSCH HGS436UC BROILER LIGHTS BUT NOT HOT ENOUGH

BROILER LIGHTS AND 'HI' IS SELECTED. HOWEVER, IT DOESN'T HEAT UP TO TEMPERATURE

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch water heater won't heat as hot or as long as it used to.

Is it protected by a water softener?

Have you cleaned the inlet screen and flow valve?

Your problem is likely in one of those areas. If not them then you may have to backflush the heat exchanger (if you don't have a softener). The manual tells you how to do that.

Mike

Posted on Apr 04, 2009

  • 414 Answers

SOURCE: Does my Bosch SHU3032UC have a heat booster?

The dishwasher has a built in instantaneous water heater, so even if the water feeding the d/w is cold the machine will heat it the the temp required for the cycle you have choosen. Reducing the temp will not effect the wash quality at all, in fact having a lower temp or cold water filling the machine will make the drying cycle at the end of the program more effective.
Hope this helps, please leave feedback.

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

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SOURCE: Hi I have a Bosch

Open following link for Bosch troubleshooting resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html

Typical Bosch 10P manual shows temperature control illustration on Pg4, and includes low water temperatures on troubleshoot on Pg6
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_10P-installation.pdf
Water flow rate too high, low gas pressure, faulty thermostat.

Two other things might be causing problem
Crossover:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
Lime build-up
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-De-lime-tankless.pdf

Posted on Jun 15, 2011

rickead1
  • 1998 Answers

SOURCE: I've had a Bosch Axxis

Have you tried doing continuity tests on the heater and the hi-limit and low-limit thermistors in the unit? Message me back the model number of your unit and I may be able to locate a schematic to your unit showing where these parts are located? Thanks again I await your reply Rick

Posted on Jul 20, 2011

BADBOYJAY
  • 264 Answers

SOURCE: Oven doesn't heat up and no light symbol shows up on the indicator panel.

it sounds like you tod stat has gone if you turn the oven off from the mains pull the oven right out and take the lid off you will see a little black stat with two wires join then up together do not let them tuch any thing then turn the oven back on if it all works afther you put the time in you will need a new one of them ok hope i have helped you

Posted on Nov 03, 2012

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Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.



Let me know,if needed further assistance.



Hope i helped you.



Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

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Hi I have a Bosch water wizard 10p & although i have the heat turned up to the highest it is still not hot enough! I was wondering if there was another way of increasing the water temp?


Open following link for Bosch troubleshooting resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html

Typical Bosch 10P manual shows temperature control illustration on Pg4, and includes low water temperatures on troubleshoot on Pg6
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_10P-installation.pdf
Water flow rate too high, low gas pressure, faulty thermostat.

Two other things might be causing problem
Crossover:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
Lime build-up
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-De-lime-tankless.pdf

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Are you waiting long enough for the water to be totally heated, before showering? Unfortunately, all the water doesn't reach 60 degrees celsius (140 degrees fahrenheit) in a matter of minutes. Try switching to the hot water mode sooner and allow enough time for the system to heat up entirely. If that doesn't solve the problem, the burner may need cleaning,

Hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

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1 Answer

Top broiler igniter lights, but no gas is coming


The ignitor should glow almost white hot. If it is just red hot it may not be drawing enough amps for the valve to read and not allowing it to open and releasing the gas. It should pull 2.5 - 3 amps for the valve to open.

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