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Bosch DW SHU66C02UC/23 control unit 447325 keeps stopping and going back to 0 during wash cycle. Why

During the regular or quick wash cycles it will stop running and go back to 0 where I then have to restart it. Sometimes it is within the first 10 min's and other times it may go until towards the end of the cycle. Sometimes it will stop and the lights are flashing and I then have to reset and restart. I have already replaced the control unit and it still does the same thing. It seems it is a timer problem but we can't figure out how to fix it.

Posted by Anonymous on

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4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher Water pump not stopping

Hi.

You need to replace the pressure switch located near to the pump, in the drain assembly.
The main function of the pressure switch is to turn off pump when there is no more water.
The pressure switch can be tested reading ohms on switch contacts and jumping the switch. This must be done by a technician.

You can get parts and a quote on repair calling Bosch at the number listed on the manual.

Regards.

Posted on Nov 21, 2009

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Macmarkus
  • 2605 Answers

SOURCE: I have read about problems

Hello Brien, First let me start by apologizing for the difficulty you've had here at FixYa. It is unfortunate the assistance (or lack of) was not helpful or specific to your inquiry, but I'd like to attempt to make amends. I am quite familiar with your model and in fact have serviced Bosch for around 15yrs. When you receive the timer (It is very rare to need one in a Bosch, more likely stat on the inside door panel) I'd be more than willing to guide you through the process and I will even send you a complimentary service manual if you provide an email address. I will understand if you have closed the door on any further input from "experts" here at FixYa but will do what I can to help if you're open. Sorry once again and good luck going forward. Regards, Macmarkus :)

Posted on May 21, 2011

caroldon
  • 17129 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch SHE44C07UC/22 - FD8606 :

Seems that the output to the pump is to be checked during the wash cycle. Since the pump is working in the final cycle it seems that the timer is not contacting during the wash cycle which point our suspicion to the program timer controller unit.
What needs to be done is to check the output voltage to the pump, monitor this output using a multimeter as you will get the inference to confirm the fault.
Swappin a timer will be the best option before you invest in one.

Posted on Jul 27, 2011

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Bosch SHE 58 C05UC/40 dishwasher take 12-16 hours to run cycle.


Could be a heater or pcb failure, if you are hearing the bang/knock during fill up it could be the water is not reaching level and then the heater will not come on (boil dry sensing) try the following. Turn mains off first.
The pressure chamber or hose (pressure chamber to sump) may be blocked and the microswitch is being activated because the water is not entering the tank quick enough. Isolate from electric, remove lid and left panel (looking from the front). There is a plastic chamber bottom right of left side with two microswitches, either this is blocked or the hose that runs from it to the right and along the back of the kick panel and into the sump. Clear either or both (make sure all hoses are pushed true when repositioning).

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Have a shu 4322 dishwasher it fills with water and drains but the spray arms do not spray. have not tried anything yet.this dishwasher is not hooked up. it was given to me by a friend who replaced all his...


Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.


There was indeed a recall involving the control replacement nearly two years ago now if I recall.

As for checking into the present issue ( it doesn`t sound like anything to do with the control based on your description ) it sounds like the pump impeller may have become stuck. Did the dishwasher sit idle or in storage unused for a period of time ?

I have a service bulletin I could send you via email regarding remedying that issue of stuck impeller if you contact me at macmarkus@live.ca

I`d suggest you run the dishwasher through a diagnostic, but either procedure will require hooking it up.

To do this test/diagnostic on the SHU4322 series machine, it is as follows...

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ "20" = version 0 without jumper).

When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone).

Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time.

When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ "6" = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

0 = No faults detected
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault
2 = Heating fault
4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)


To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

i.e.

86c0a8d.jpg

If water level switch has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won't stop circulating. If NTC probe has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.


What needs to be done to solve the problem will depend on the results/findings of the dianostic, so let me know what you find and we can go from there.

Either way keep me in the loop and I`ll assist you the best I can. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
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To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
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0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
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at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
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