Question about GE GSH25SGPSS Side by Side Refrigerator
MY GE #GSH25SGPSS REFRIGERATOR STAYS ON ALL THE TIME. FREEZER SECTION WORKS O.K. BUT REFRIGERATOR SIDE IS WARM
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE Side by Side stopped cooling
This sounds like the defrost heater is bad or dead. The refrigerator will not cool because frost is building up on the evaporator coils in the freezer section and the fan can no longer push air past the coils. You will find that the freezer will build up with frost.
If you are brave enough, remove the cover in the freezer and you will see the coils are completely covered with frost (ICE). At this point with the refrigerator unplugged ( remove food). get a hair dryer or heat gun and melt all the frost. You will notice a heating element ( looks like a tubed light) -element will looked burnt out.
Replacing it at this point is easy. Before you start though, try to get the manual for your system and call around for a local appliance parts store to see if the part is readily available.
Posted on Dec 22, 2007
SOURCE: Auto defrost not working
a manual defrost will help in the sense that it will healp save your food now if you dont mind spending a little cash may i suggest you go buy a eurika 350 hand held steamer its great for defrosting and about 1000 other thuings around your house you canget it at lowes places like that after defrosting the unit will freeze again in about two to three days depending on how many times you open your door reply to this thered with the appox age of your unit and i can better advise from there some times as in the case of a stuck theroma stat if seen it fix them but i wouldnt count on it hold my rating tii we are done
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
this is a problem that is no stranger to most GE side by sides; GE has used a glass type defrost heater in the freezer which often fails. If you manually defrost your appliance (unplug and leave doors open for 24 hrs) then plug back in, it will appear to work normally for a few days and gradually build up frost on the evap panel (back panel in the freezer) and eventually the refrigerator side will seem to loose cooling due to frosted damper, or lack of cold air transfer over the evap coil. The fix for this is to replace the defrost heaters (s). While not as common, defrost thermostats can open causing the unit to skip defrost, and even less likely is the defrost control (either mechanical timer or adaptive defrost). First, defrost your appliance, then remove the evap panel and ohm out the heater(s), if open, replace. If they check ok, check your defrost thermostat (small disc like object attached by a clip on the evap. coil itself) for signs of popping open or open ohm readings at normally closed temperatures. Its a good idea to change this anyway when replacing defrost heaters as the two work hand in hand. Last, check the defrost timer by manually advancing the screw advance clockwise until you hear the first click, then check voltage to the defrost heater and thermostat, if no voltage present replace timer. If your appliance is equipped with a adaptive defrost board, refer to the schematic for proper diagnostics.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
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