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Either the door is damaged or not properly aligned or tightened or the bellows that the door contacts when closed is damaged. Check to see if the door is loose.Carefully inspect the bellows for rips or holes in the rubber. Many times pointed or sharp items are washed in pockets of clothes they end up tearing or puncturing the bottom of the bellows causing the front to leak water.
Code AE is a water leak. There is a float sensor in the base of the machine for this. The likely fault is the lower bellows drain hose as they are convoluted and this catches women's hair pins...the machine vibrations and water in turn rust these which pierce the hose. Hose bellows part number for LG WD14756SD is 4738ER1008A. Be careful for other machines the numbers/parts differ.
Unfortunately it's tight room to replace the hose but it can be done.
The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.
PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.
CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.
LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.
NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.
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Are you referring to the vent on the back of the machine? If your leaking water, you need to replace or install some new mushroom valves. These mushroom valves, go in both bellows on the top of the machine. One bellow goes from the dispenser box, to the tub. This is where the water goes into the tub, to fill. The other bellow, is attached to the top of the tub, to vent. These both have or are suppose to have mushroom valves in them. If they do not, you're machine will leak water out the back of the vent.
I don't know what kind of machine you have, but we had the same problem just 2 days ago. Ours is an LG front loader. It turned out the problem was a bad bellows. You can get the bellows from the Repair Clinic (www.Repairclinic.com). I called them, and they were extremely helpful. The part was $14, and we were able to lay our washer on its side, access the bellows from underneath and replace the part. The bellows is a rubber hose-like connector. I read somewhere that hot water will cause holes in the bellows over time. This completely fixed our water leak. But I purchased 2 of these parts so that I have one for when it happens the next time. Good luck!
If your LG washer is a front loading machine, the bellow or gasket may need to be replaced. this is a common problem with front loaders as the bellow can be pierced by anything that may be in or even on your clothes. I would visually inspect every inch of the front bellow to see if there is a TEAR or PIN HOLE. this can be hard to detect sometimes but can save you alot of grief. hope this helps
Here is the answer !!! My LG front loader has leaked once a year for the past 4 years. The rubber bellows (a part underneath the washer) cracks and causes the leak. DO NOT LET THEM TELL YOU THAT YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH DETERGENT ... THAT JUST AN EXCUSE !!! The part costs around $12. Here's the link ...
Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD /
WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share
my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG
washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD
should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features
available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However,
WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features
are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual
downloaded from http://184.108.40.206/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my
Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of
common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for
Trouble date: January 2006
Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.
Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More)
didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was
quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB
Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without
“Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were
dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.
Trouble date: March 2008
Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.
Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First
diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in
dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also
thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint
but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.
Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.
Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced
to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a
separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at
2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while
the kitchen timer was still running.
Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and
4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when
the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes
were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.
Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.
Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.
Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare
with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying
cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be
sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side
of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the
Duct Assembly (condensing).
Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.
Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in
manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the
Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side.
Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case
Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or
visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and
Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the
heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush.
Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the
Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were
moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and
do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse
entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint
would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain
hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to
worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a
suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end.
Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before
re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.
Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB
Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and
it appears to be so for many users as well.
User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should
not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning
maintenance is required.