Question about GE G.e Refrigerator Wr55x10942 Motherboard Main Board

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Should I have power to both the compressor and defroster at the same time

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  • Bob Simmons Dec 10, 2012

    Didn't realize I was posting or I would have elaborated some. I measure the 3 main power prongs on the bottom of the motherboard labeled J8-comp, J9-defr, & J10-line and have 124vAC between gnd and J8 and also between gnd and J10. I get no voltage between gnd and J9. I replaced this motherboard 3 months ago after a repairman told me my board had failed. It acts just like it did then. The freezer slowly warmed up as did the refrigerator. He said I had no power to the compressor the first time but I do now and the bottom of the compressor is slightly warm but the top is cool to the touch.



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When you check the power there you will get what looks like power to both but the question is how much power are you getting at the compressor? You may have a start relay, overload or run capacitor defective at the compressor area causing the compressor to not start. Take a good jumpper wire and connect L1 to J8 and see if that will start the compressor. Here is a link to a=> GE ARTICA PROFILE TECHNICAL INFORMATION
Follow with me there and here is a service manual=> HERE We will need to go over this together so please treat this as live voltage if you decide to do the jumper and testing. We will also consider a dwefective board cause by a defective fan motor but we need to make sure what is happening here before proceeding ahead. Thanks Sea Breeze

Posted on Dec 10, 2012


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1 Answer

How do I rewire the new thermostat to the defrost timer?

Not sure what you need to do so I'll give you some basic info. The main thermostat is the on/off switch for the complete refrigerator and sends power to all components. The defrost timer is in the circuit between the compressor and defrost heater system. The clock motor on the time opens and closes 2 sets of contacts. The compressor contact are closed for approx 6 to 8 hrs and while they are closed the heater contacts are open. When the timer advances to the defrost cycle, the heater contacts close for about 30 to 45 minutes and at the same time the compressor contact will open. Hope this helps your project.

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Ice buildup on evaporator coils

Can you locate the model number of your Kenmore? The number should look like this 521.345678 and located around the inside of the fresh food section door.
It could be that the defrost heater came on the time you were watching bugt may have a bad connection or a defective defrost element. You need to test the heater for continuity to assure that the element is not broken. the defrost timer and defrost thermostat being new eliminates that as being the problem so I think your element or the connection is the most next likely cause, Let me know I don't mind helping, Thanks Sea Breeze

Defrost Heater Testing for Continuity

Jun 23, 2012 | Kenmore 25.1 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

1 Answer

The compressor and fan won't come on but there is power supply working for the lights

Without your MAKE & model number; all I can do is tell you what can cause this symptom.

At the end of the defrost cycle the defrost control is supposed to get a signal from either a 60 deg bi-metal thermostat or thermistor (depending upon make & model) That signal starts the clock either mechanical or electronic that signeals the compressor to start. The fan automatically will run when the compressor runs. If the defrost thermostat or thermistor is not working correctly the unit will start a defrost cycle but never finish so it completly defrosts.

The termperature control will also cause this symptom. If the corntacts in the temp control fail the compressor will not restart.

Just from reading your symtoms I think you have a problem with one of the following:
1. Defrost thermostat or thermistor
2. Defrost control
3. Temp control

Most of the time it is either 2 or 1 above in that order.

If you respond with a make and model number I will use that to determine if there is anything you can do at this time to troubleshoot.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Aug 07, 2011 | Refrigerators

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I have a large walkin freezer and the compressor and heat strip come on at the sametime, I have to disconnet the compressor when the defrost comes on. Im not sure what wire goes where.

Open following links for 8145-20 wiring diagram and resources:

8145-20 is 240Volt defrost timer.
Heat strip and compressor should not activate at same time.
As a general rule heater connects to NO terminal 3 and compressor connects to NC terminal 4
NC terminal 3 compressor is on all the time until defrost cycle begins.
NO terminal 4 heat turns on when defrost cycle begins, and at same time NC terminal 3 compressor turns off.
At then end of the defrost cycle, NO terminal heat turns off and NC terminal 3 compressor turns on again.

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I have replaced a defrost heater #AH1993872 in my refrigerator Kenmore side by side, model # 363.50232000, S/N 04727723. I would like to check, wheather the defrost heater works properly. What is the...

The defrost time is about 30-45 minutes. This does not mean that the heater is turned on for the full defrost time. It turns on until the defrost thermostat senses the temperature is at 40 deg F then it cuts the power to the heater. Then after the defrost cycle time is over, the compressor is then powered to continue the cooling cycle.

To test, locate the defrost timer. It looks something like this,

slamfix_39.jpg It can either be found in the temperature control box in the refrigerator compartment, or located somewhere near the compressor. When you find it, look for a round cam on the side. Using a flat screwdriver, turn it until it clicks. With the fridge plugged in, the compressor should be off and the defrost heaters should be warming up. You should either hear the ice crackling and melting and see the water flow down the drain tube to the pan below the refrigerator. After about 45 minutes, the compressor should turn on. Hope this helps you.

Mar 08, 2011 | Kenmore Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The ice maker stoped working about a week ago. And now neither the fridge or freezer are working.

The first thing I would look at is the area around the compressor. themobilian_280.jpg
I want the fan to be running down there. I also need the coils to be cleaned so they don't restrict the air flow. I want the compressor to be warm to the touch but not hot and not cold. If the fan is running and the coils are clean I want to take a closer look at the compressor. The relay on these will simply fall apart over time.themobilian_281.jpg
I want to make sure I am getting power to the compressor. No power down there? We go upstairs to the control. I want to first take a look at the defrost timer or electronic defrost control. I want to make sure the timer is in compressor run mode and is not hung in defrost mode. themobilian_282.jpgI want to check an automatic defrost control for corrosion at the connection. Sometimes yanking it out of its socket will make a better connection and all will be well again.themobilian_283.jpg
If all of that is fine and the compressor is running I want to take a look at the evaporation coils. If they are iced over then I know I either have a bad defrost heater or defrost heater termination thermostat. themobilian_284.jpg
Why do we need a termination thermostat? It activates the heater when the temp in the freezer is below 25f AND the defrost timer or control calls for defrost. You see the defrost heater and terminator are still same whether you have the old tried and true defrost timer or the fancy smancy electronics. The defrost termination thermostat kills the power to the heater when the temp reachs 50f. Why is this important? Because the defrost mode stay on for 20 minutes or longer. If we leave that heater on that long the ice box would be damaged or destroyed. The ice buildup resulted from a failed defrost takes a week or longerthemobilian_285.jpgthemobilian_286.jpg I have more Info Here

I have service manuals and more good stuff here

and Here

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1 Answer

My defrost system is not working. How do you check the defrost timer and the thermostat disk ?

The defrost thermostat electrically closes when the temperature is below 40 degrees F and opens when it is above. You can check it with an ohmmeter and it should read close to zero ohms when the temperature is freezing and infinity when it senses temperature above 40 degrees F.

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Oct 04, 2010 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Power on but fridge/freezer not working (only lights)

Yes, boards may need replacing, but not at the expense of the door, apparantly your "engineer" would rather work on older models that may require a hammer. Best advice would be given knowing the make and model number of your unit. A professional should be able to diagnose the board processes as well as the compressor in a short amount of time. Check the defrost heater (after pwr is restored to unit) for the freezer side (placement depending upon model) for continuity (basically a heating element for the evaporator coils - which will freeze without defrost). Proper defrost will help lessen the load on the compressor. Check the overload relay on the compressor itself for failure and replacement of relay. Have the unit defrosted, svc defrost htr, thermostats/thermolinks , compressor, before checking computer board operations.

Oct 25, 2008 | Freezers

1 Answer

Came home sunday night and our side by side fridge freezer was not working, just the fan is running, how do i locate a repairman, since this monday is a holiday. i have frozen buckets of water, and placed...

Any frost on back wall of freezer section. If so you have a defrost system problem. If you can hear a hum followed by a click the problem is with the compressor. In back of the refrigerator is a removable panel. remove it and carefully check if the compressor is hot. A cold compressor indicates no power to the compressor which would be related to the temperature control or defrost timer.
Defrost timers are normally located in the area of the temperature controls. Locate the timer and rotate the clutch head screw clockwise slowly until it makes one click. If the timer is the cause of no power to the compressor the compressor will restart. If the problem is defrost related this same action will start the defrost which should take place in 18-22 minutes. If defrost of the freezer coil takes place and the compressor does not restart after the time indicated (wait 30 minutes) rotate the screw slowly one more click and the compressor should restart. If you had to rotate the screw the second time the problem is your defrost timer.

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1 Answer

Not Cooling

The defrost heater and compressor can't operate at the same time unless the timer is bad. It disconnects the compressor and evap. fan during defrost cycle. Not sure what you call the "fuse", are you talking about the clip on disk that's on the evap. coil? If so that is the safety "fuse" as you call it to "open" and kill power to the heating element if the element gets the interior too hot. Usually water seeps in then freezes and pops the expoxy plug up thus breaking the normally closed power loop. If you have power going to the heating element (and it's hot, etc.) AND the fan/compressor is running then it has to be the defrost timer that's bad. There's just no way the heater element can be getting power at the same time the compressor is getting power unless that timer is bad (or a major short in some wiring somewhere). If you unplug the timer what effect does it have on your system? Let us know, this one sounds interesting...

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