Question about GE WPGT9360EPL Top Load Washer
I replaced the bearing mechanism and now the washing machine hits the top to the machine when it is in the last two minutes of the spin cycle. When I replaced the bearing mechanism the agitator had to have a washer put under it to keep it from hitting the bottom of the tub and not rub. I followed the diagram with every washer and nut precisely.
It sound like you have a blocked pump. Remove the pump from the machine and check where do you have this clogged, inside the pump or in one of the pipes connected to it. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 16, 2007
This is a very complicated machine utilizing no transmission, rotor/stator type drive motor, and a locking/unlocking clutch mechanism design to either engage or disengage the wash basket. These machines are tricky even for professionals to properly diagnose.
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
SOURCE: main seal
This is a pretty tough job to do on your own, but can be done. First step is to remove the front, then the top. Remove the rear cover plate under the console, and swing it out of the way. Unclip the top ring and remove the four suspension dampener straps, remove the top ring. Reach under the agitator, and pull up with force (dont hit yourself in the head or face with it, hurts for sure...) until it pops off (agitators on GE's just snap). Sometimes these can be a real bear to get off, so dont get discouraged. Sometimes you can put a peice of small rope or line under it and jerk it up. After you remove the agitator, you will see the drive bell. Remove the bolt on top of the bell, and once again, try to pull the bell up and off the shaft (once again, a real bear in some occasions, rope trick or puller also will work here). Once you remove the bell, the good part starts. Most of us repair persons have a special spanner tool for that nut your looking at. I believe it is a 1 7/8" nut. This nut is REVERSED THREADED, which means to remove you will spin it clockwise. These spanner nuts can be very, VERY difficult to remove. A lot of WD-40 and time. Most of the time you have to bang them off with that special tool and a hammer, but you may get lucky. If you do get that nut off, you can remove the inner tub. Be sure that the metal drive hub bolted to the bottom of the inner tub is completely tight all the way around. GE units have a very bad habit of those screws backing out and the drum getting loose causing major league noise. Now that you have removed that, you need to remove the outer drum. Remove the wires from the motor, etc. Unhook the 4 suspension rods and plastic clips by pulling the bottoms down (spring loaded) and removing them from the frame. Unhook the tub to pump drain hose, tilt the entire center section top towards the back, and swing the unit out from the bottom. Remove the outer tub by removing the hold down screws. Your seal will be in the bottom. Just pop out and replace. Here are some diagrams that might help you out.
Cabinet and Top:
Drum, Agitator, Basket:
Drive Componants, Suspension Parts:
Good luck, and let me know how it comes out, or if you need anything further. Good Luck!!!!!!
Posted on Feb 03, 2008
You do not have a "high torque" motor (which would have required motor replacement along with these other parts).
Install a new hub washer WH2X1199, split ring WH2X1195, and hub nut WH2X1193. Inspect the hub on the inner basket for wear. If it is worn, the entire SS inner basket (WH45X10060) will also have to be replaced to prevent continued problems. If possible, tighten hub nut with torque wrench to 110 ft-lbs. I hope you did not purchase from Sears. (Sears sold machines are sold with NO FACTORY WARRANTY of any kind. For those, GE will tell you to call Sears.) If not from Sears, you may be able to get some assistance from GE customer relations if you need the inner basket. Your machine was manufactured in Nov. 06, so most likely was purchased over one year ago.
Note: If you look at the board on the top portion of the motor, you should see a LED light flashing on the right front side. It should flash about 1 second on, 1 second off (unless motor running, then .5 on, .5 off) Other flashes indicate various problems. To reset code if necessary, unplug motor for at least 15 seconds, then plug in, wait 3-5 seconds, then open and close lid 5 times within next 10 seconds.
If this does not rate a Fix-Ya for you, please don't bother rating, as I don't like to see my score drop after giving this much free advise.
Posted on Jan 17, 2009
SOURCE: GE washer won't agitate
I had this same problem with our GE top load washer. I just needed to pull harder. (Note: The agitator is held in place by about a dozen L-shaped clips in a ring around the agitator's base that will release more as you pull harder on the agitator.) Everything from the base below the large fins on up comes out together. Grab the shaft above the fins and pull slowly and hard. I had to take the entire tub out, lay it on the porch, put my feet inside of it, and pull the agitator assembly out. I wasn't able to pull it out while it was still in the washer. BE CAREFUL! DON'T **** IT OUT; that might injure your back; just pull out slowly and as hard as you can without hurting yourself. I was able to get it out successfully, but I am currently stuck at removing the bell below the agitator. Good luck!
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
if you removed the large nut (round with four notches cut in it ) then tub should be free. sometimes these "rust together" on the hub. wd40 and a hammer to knock it free. try rocking the basket to break free. you did remove the tub ring(white plastic part on top), right?
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
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