Question about Refrigerators
I was cleaning off all the walls that where full of ice. I accidently punctured the coil. I think all the gas escaped. What can I do? I really don't have the money to but a new one right now.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The refrigerant used since ~ 10 years is no more dangerous than the one previously used and it is even doubtful that the newer stuff is any better for the ozone layer.
The original coolant could be inhaled without injury as long as one didnt suffocate from a lack of oxygen.
The repair may not be cheap since it will entail the removal and replacement of the damaged coil.
This will require some specialized welding to install.
Using a normal table-top or floor-standing fan to circulate ambient air through the refrigerator with the door(s) open is a safe and fast method for defrosting units that do not automatically defrost.
Just make sure you have some absorbant material in the bottom to avoid water running out of the unit.
Poking the coils with sharp objects can result in the problem you now have or fracture hidden joints that will allow the gas to escape.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
SOURCE: REPAIR or REPLACE?
Well... here's an idea.
Drill a 1/2 inch hole where you punctured the wall of the freezer, make sure you don't hit the coils. Then goto lowes/home depot and get that expansion foam that is used to insulate windows and holes in houses. Grab a razor blade and scalp off the excess after it's dried. Now cover the foam on the inside of the freezer with 2 part epoxy or "shoe goo" or e6000 (these are the toughest glues I have ever used) which is available at a hobby shop. Make sure you do a test with the foam and the glue on cardboard first to make sure the glue won't eat at the foam.
Are you sure you punctured the coil? If you did you can goto an auto part place and ask for a compression fitting (most commonly used to repair brake lines on cars) for what ever tube size the coil is, use a fine ruler is the best. Then you can repair the coil by using a pipe cutter to cut the coil and put it back together with the compression fitting. Now call the appliance service guys and have them come out and recharge the system.
Fixed, total cost... about $50 bucks
Other solution, replace entire fridge, total cost $$$$$
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
That type of damage is usually fatal to the unit. It is difficult if not impossible to repair in most cases depending on the metal used to make the evaporator, and what kind if equipment the repairman has. You can't fix this yourself, consult a local repairman, explain what happened, and the model of the unit, and ask if repairable what it might cost. Or just buy a new one. And NEVER use sharp objects in an effort to remove frost buildup. Turn it off, put your stuff in a cooler, and use a heat source such as a bucket of hot water in the unit with the door closed
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
If you replaced the "defrost timer", and the circulation fan runs ok before the ice buildup occurs, you will have to melt the ice so the panel will come off. Then, pull the back panel off and inspect to components. First, the defrost element and connections to it. If connections are good, disconnect 1 connector and check the resistance of the element itself with a ohmmeter. It should be 40-150 ohms, depending on the unit. If it is excessive or infinate, replace the element. If it is ok, leave the element disconnected and check the other component (defrost termination switch) which is clamped onto the evaporator coil and has two wires attached to it. It should read 0 to 2 ohms at room temprature, and no more than that as it is a temprature controlled switch. If it has excessive resistance, replace it. These are the only 2 components, aside from the defrost timer, that encompass the entire defrost circuit in most refrigerators.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
You punctured the aluminum evaporator . In the many years I've been in refrigeration , I have yet to find any way to patch a hole in the evaporator . I've used epoxy , solder , and all different advertised ways to try to patch aluminum . Nothing worked ( for long anyway ) . My suggestion would be to buy another refrig . You will be wasting time and money trying to " fix " this problem . To repair it yourself , you have to have a license to buy R12 , maybe you can buy R134A without a license , you have to look on the " modell , serial number tak to see which it uses and how much to use . Also , the system has to evacuated ( all air removed from the lines ) . Do you have a vacuum pump ? You have to buy a solder on connector ( or saddle valve which WILL leak eventually unless you get a solder on valve ) which will connect to the larger tubing on the compressor or use the access line already on the compressor but is pinched off . Do you have guages for the refrigerant type you need to use ? Once you have these things , reply back and myself or someone else will help you procede .
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
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