Question about Heating & Cooling
Posted by Anonymous on
SOLVED! in short, replace rivets, or bolt the front cowling to the back cowling. the rivets that attach the front cowling wore loose on mine. i thought, at first it was the back cage shorting out the thermocouple, by touching it. i took this whole thing apart to fix it. I resoldered lines, cleaned thermocoule, and soldered an alligator clamp on to the actually thermocouple, since solder will just melt. This must have been tig welded onto the thermocouple. if you remove that ground wire, it won't stay lit, after you stop pushing the lighting button in. I made it through a tank, after doing all this stuff, including putting new rivets in. switched tanks, then more flare ups, after about 10 minutes on new tank. i noticed the back of cowling getting red this last time, before it flared and shut off, so i looked and 3 of my new rivets had melted, because i used aluminum replacements. now i put steel rivets in, the back of cowling is tight, and air can't get in from the top to make the metal hot. which is what i believe causes the unit to shut off. If these rivets don't last, i'll just bolt the two pieces together.
Posted on Jan 15, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you either have too much air pressure or you don't have enough pressure.do you know what your pressure is set at.
Posted on Feb 17, 2009
SOURCE: dyna glo workhorse heater
you need to pull top cover off. And bend the igniter in to the spray of fuel and check the gap of the ignighter to 3.5 mm and bingo should work i just bought one and had to do this to it
Posted on May 06, 2009
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