Question about Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp
Could it be the coil pack and lead or magnets in the fly wheel , where is the best place for cheap parts and how to test a coil pack ,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello David; We are prohibited from contacting you directly. It sounds as though the ignition module is defective but it could also be a defective switch or interconnecting wire, try this please, it tests the entire system.
Ignition Coil Test by SmallEng.com
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.
Ignition module gap
Place a business or index card between the fly wheel and coil, rotate until the magnetic attraction pulls everything tight together. Tighten the coil screws, rotate the flywheel until the attraction eases and remove the card. Ensure nothing contacts when flywheel is rotated.
In the USA a duplicate receipt can usually be obtained from the merchant, there too? If not what about your credit card receipt?
I would try my local Husky dealer once the problem is isolated.
An IPL (Illustrated parts listing) can be found here:
Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers)
Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals
06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarification http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/)
15 = week produced – March
00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Good Luck. HTH
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Posted on Apr 25, 2010
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SOURCE: no spark
Remove cover & unplug shutoff wir from coil and replace cover & check for spark,if you have spark repair shorted wire or switch.If no spark remove coil and have checked.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
I too have a rancher 55 and had what sounds like the same problem this week. It would start fine but run for only a few seconds at a time. I took it all apart today and found the problem - a cracked fuel line. In the places where I could see the hose it looked fine, but it wasn't until I removed the fuel tank that I found the crack...right where it exits the tank and then goes thru the housing above it. You don't need to remove the tank to replace the hose but it is easier that way. You do have to push it thru a grommet at the top of the tank. I read some other posts about checking the tank vent to see that it's not plugged up. Mine was ok so I knew it had to be something else. The vent is in a hole about the size of a pencil and is recessed about an inch into the tank on the upper right side. Its partially covered by a plastic cap that's part of the vibration damper, which can be removed to gain access to the vent. The vent tube can then be pushed out from inside the tank with the use of long needle nose pliers, but be gentle. I just loosened it then pushed it out with a finger. I put it all back together with a new hose and its running like new again!
Posted on May 31, 2009
Husqvarna says the initial carburetor needle valve settings are from lightly seated 1 turn CCW for both H & L.
Your Operator's Manual can be downloaded here:
Once flooded Huskys are very hard to start. This works well on my 359.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
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