Question about Ovens

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Heatman, please help: Bake burner cuts out

Temp probe checked good, so I replaced control panel. Valve is now sometimes closing at start/restart as if flame is not being sensed. Ignitor glows red when valve stays open, so I know flame is hitting it. Flames do only seem to hit the ends, as holes aimed at center of ignitor assembly do not seem to push flame into ignitor. Should I replace ignitor? Ignites just fine, but does it also sense flame? Is precise alignment an issue? I have a pic to share. Thanks, Jeff

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  • Contributor
  • 20 Answers

Try cleaning the pilot nozzel with compressed air. I had the same problem with my fireplace.

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 30425 Oven will not reach target temp

the ignitor is moast likley bad, look for a hot spot on the ignitor showing a open on the filament.

Posted on Dec 25, 2008

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Super Capacity 465 oven Model#

The ignitor is not allowing enough 'current flow' to open the valve. The ignitor , even if it glows, can be 'low current' to valve.
(the ignitor current controls valve)

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

EllaWatson25
  • 725 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Acu Bake oven, burners light, broiler

You just need a new gas valve. This is a simple repair for you and you can save a lot of money by repairing it yourself.

Just contact us at:
http://www.fixya.com/repair/d499389-accurate_appliance_repair_service
with your brand and model number and we will get the correct part out to you right away.

We look forward to getting you cooking again soon.

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: Oven bake ignitor glows but

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or
Oven not Heating

Oven Problems
Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Posted on Dec 14, 2010

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Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).


Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
Test and replace the door switch.


Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
Replace control board
F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
Replace temp. probe
F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control
F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary
F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel
F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.

on Jan 31, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

My Corriander model oven - stovetop works well, but the oven is completely "dead".


THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.


: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Dec 07, 2016 | Fisher and Paykel Ovens

1 Answer

On my Ge electric oven, sometimes it starts but after 3-4 seconds it shuts down and the true temp light flashes, but most of the time when I push the bake button the true temp light just flashes.


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!


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25728965-h2nezs2ipeosmtwvc0c05nbs-1-2.jpg

25728965-h2nezs2ipeosmtwvc0c05nbs-1-5.jpg

25728965-h2nezs2ipeosmtwvc0c05nbs-1-9.jpg

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Jun 04, 2015 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

My oven keeps cutting out (fan stops and heating) but it isn't at the temperature selected on the control knob. Sometimes it goes up to temp, sometimes it stops a LOT lower.


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Apr 30, 2015 | Belling Ovens

1 Answer

It seems my plain fan convection oven takes significantly longer to pre-heat to 350 degrees when in convection bake.


I would check the oven sensor it may be defective

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Apr 07, 2015 | Kenmore Ovens

3 Answers

I have a Kenmore Gas Wall Oven Model Number 911.30469894. When BAKE is selected, temperature shows 100 degrees and the oven never starts up or gets hot. BROIL works fine. Thank you, John


The oven control supplies voltage to the oven igniter/gas valve circuit. When the oven control is set to Bake, voltage is supplied to the oven igniter which should glow bright red to almost white hot. Once the igniter comes on and begins to glow it must pull enough current to cause the gas valve to open so the burner can ignite from the igniter. I added an image below with the theory of operation. Click this link:--http://media.fotki.com/1_p,swbbsqrsgstsqkkxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/wrgtsbrktxwdfwfbgdg/1/1303472/5961857/image5576034710104836299img-or.png

----Open the broiler drawer and then set the oven control to bake and watch to see if the glow bar igniter glows or not. If it does not glow, the failure could be a broken Igniter, failed oven control board or gas valve. If the igniter is glowing red, then it can be possible that gas valve is faulty. To see how igniter looks. See the fig below:--

helpmech_69.jpg

-----------

To order this part click the link below:--

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hot-Surface-Glow-Bar-Igniter/1990?modelNumber=911.30469894

------------

Also to confirm, check to see if the igniter is getting 120 volts when it's turned on. If it gets 120 volts, then your safety gas valve is bad because it's not letting the neutral go through. Otherwise, if it's NOT getting 120 volts, your control board shorted out and you need a new control board.
But as you mentioned that control board is replaced. So igniter should get 120 volts. If valve is faulty. But if igniter is not glowing then its faulty igniter confirmed.

To see how gas valve looks, please click the link below:---

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Gas-Safety-Valve-Assembly/251898

In most of the cases the igniter is faulty, because gas valve getting faulty is very rare. But still getting the voltages checked, will confirm. These will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

Feb 04, 2011 | Kenmore 30464 / 30465 / 30469 Gas Single...

1 Answer

Turn oven on to bake when it reaches temp oven cuts off and f2 sh


This indicates the oven has reached an over temperature. You will first need to check the temperature probe for the proper reading. Refer to the tech sheet located somewhere on your stove. It should be around 1100 ohms. If this checks out good the ERC electronic range control will need to be replaced. Here is a couple links that should help
http://appliancehelponline.com/oventempprobe.html

http://appliancehelponline.com/ovenerc.html

Jul 27, 2010 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

3 Answers

Whirlpool Oven Model GS440LEMQ bake eventually turns off


As per the problem you submitted ,According to the manufacturer service pointer cause of the intermittent bake burner operation is improper air flow to the burner.

The correction is to replace the bake burner with the new modified burner and igniter assembly.

- The part number for the burner & igniter assembly is AP3598752
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3598752 --------- to get more help please click on this link directly http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Dec 31, 2009 | Ovens

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