Question about Dryers
I want to test my limit switch with my ohm meter to see if it's any good
If its the high limit thermostat it will test just like a switch closed it will read very low ohms,open it will read infinity "OL" on some meters
Posted on Dec 11, 2012
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same thing happen, I replaced the thermal cutoff and made sure no lint build up. It lasted a week then blew again. I then replaced it again and got to thinking why it would blow. I then took apart the exaust inside the dryer running fron the drum to the motor and right before the motor was a build up of lint ane particals that was almost like compressed sawdust which was blocking half of the line. I cleaned this out and it seemed to work much better.
Posted on Jan 04, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
It sounds like you have been through most of the areas too look.
One thing to make sure of is that you have a full 240 volts. An electric dryer can measure 120 volts. from L1 to common and 120 volts from L2 to common but you also need to make sure you have 240 volts from L1 to L2 on the meter, one leg of the breaker or one of the two fuses could be blown.
If this is alright you only have a couple components left. The timer contacts and the drive motor. Either of these could be causing the issue.
To check the motor with the power disconnected check for continuity between switch terminal 5 and the Green(black) wire on the motor. If you have no continuity the motor is bad. Check for continuity between the terminal 6 and the yellow wire on the motor, if you have no continuity there the motor is bad. Check for continuity between terminal 1 and 2 on the motor if you you do not have continuity the motor is bad.
The timer should have continuity between the Yellow and Grey wire terminals for the motor to start.
I hope this helps
Posted on Apr 23, 2010
Testimonial: "Great advice, thank you for your help."
It is dangerous to do but you have to turn dryer on while it is apart and wait for limit to open up, then test. !st make sure all connections are ok. The clips and the nuts all need to be tight. If any look dark or burnt that may be your weak link. If you are sure that everything is else is working ok, a set of high limit switches is not very expensive. The voltage is 220 so if your careful you can test at each junction, but be careful..
Posted on Sep 18, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 15, 2015 | Whirlpool Dryers
Oct 02, 2012 | Dryers
Sep 28, 2012 | Bosch Nexxt 800 Dryer
Sep 28, 2012 | Frigidaire GLER642A Electric Dryer
Sep 28, 2012 | Dryers
Feb 11, 2012 | Whirlpool Duet Sport 6.7 Cu. Ft. Gas Dryer
Jul 24, 2011 | Frigidaire FEQ332E Electric Dryer
Aug 25, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers
Aug 25, 2010 | Dryers
Jan 09, 2010 | Dryers
59 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!