Question about Refrigerators

1 Answer

Maytag frig not cooling or freezing

Are the coils underneath the only ones to clean

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Top Expert:

    An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

  • Refrigerators Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the complete model number of the unit?

Posted on Dec 09, 2012

Ad

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer and frig is not working

I would start by pulling it out, removing the lower back panel, and see if the compressor is running. It is the black ball on the left side. If it is not running, check voltage at the two wires at the compressor. If there is voltage, try a new overload/relay kit. If there is no voltage, try a thermostat. If the compressor is running, check the evaporator behind the rear freezer panel to see if it is frozen solid, if it is, replace the defrost timer.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: maytag msd2651hew refrigerator

Defrost heater or heater safety thermostat or defrost timer faulty.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: INSIDE FREEZER COILS ARE FREEZING UP AND FRIG WONT STAY COLD.

Classic symptoms -

Chances are if they are getting cool, then later not, and there is a large accumulation of frost -

1) the evaporator fan in the freezer is not running
2) Defrost heater has failed
3) Defrost sensor has failed
4) Defrost timer/refrigerator control has failed.

Check for ice build-up on the back wall of the freezer. If there is ice, unplug or turn the unit off for 6-8 hours with the doors open (put any food in a cooler with ice to maintain). Note water may come out of the refrigerator.
Plug the unit back in or turn it back on, close the doors, and check temperature after a couple of hours of operation. If all OK, you will need to have the above tested, or, if you know how to use a multimeter and can read a schematic/wiring diagram, I can instruct you on how to check the above. Please provide specific unit Model number to proceed further.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Freezer coils keep freezing up.

I had a similar problem with a Maytage Side-by-SIde Model MDZ2768GEW, (purchased in 2001). Defrost not working...poor cooling in both the freezer and fridge. We opened up the back of the Freezing side and the coils were iced. This Model is auto defrost so obviously something was not working. We called a Sears repair office and they sent a guy that told us we needed to defrost the unit. Well...I wasn't home and my father-in-law didn't question it - he defrosted it! I was busy at the time and didn't pursue it until the problem naturally resurfaced a month or so later. Not wanting to haggle with Sears over their Tech's lazy incompetence (or the $100 I was out), I decided to commence troubleshooting. I'm an ex Navy nuke electrician and electrical engineer so this didn't seem to be beyond my ability. Not having the Owners Manual, I internet searched until I found this site: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/html/index.html. You can download your model's Service Manual and root around for other tech info their. I found the manual for mine and performed the troubleshooting for the Adaptive Defrost Control. Its fairly easy to do and you don't have to empty the entire fridge. You do have to empty the upper shelf in the fresh food (cooler) side to gain access to the controls. --This may not be in the exact order needed but you remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover and sliding it forward (slotted attachment - no screws). Next Remove several screws holding the fascia / radiant shield on. Then remove screws that mount the control housing to top of fridge, etc. I also removed two screws that mount the ADC to the plastic housing to get access to the ADC. Basically, remove enough screws to lower the top assembly down to get to the ADC... --You may need to turn off the fridge now (or do it before you started the previous steps but the light helped me). If you are not using a Wattmeter, I don't think you need to pull the power cord. --The Service Manual next says to attach a Wattmeter to the fridge (and assumedly plug it back in). Most people don't have a Wattmeter...but what I had is a clamp-on ammeter...which you can get as part of "better" multi-meters for well under $100. An ammeter is good enough if you know how to multiply voltage and current to get VA (or approximately) Watts. Any idiot can do this...I think. P(Power) = V x I x pf. What you calculate with VxI is Apparent Power (VA). You convert to "real" power (Watts) by multiplying VA x pf. You generally have to guess at pf, but 0.8 for a motor/compressor is a good approximation and 1.0 for a heater or indandescent light bulb is roughly good. Enough electrical basics... --With Fridge plugged in, and being careful not to touch exposed connections, move the ADC control board so you can gain access to it (2 screws were removed previously to loosen it from the housing at top/back right of fresh food side). The ADC is a small printed ckt board about 3" x 3". --Use a small insulated jumper (or insulated alligator clip) and jumper Pins labeled "L1" and "Test". These are labeled on the PC board and were the two left-most pins, side by side, on my ADC. The Manual doesn't say whether to leave the jumper on or not. I tried both ways and I believe all you need to do is momentarily jumper the two pins (but my ADC wasn't working right, which I will get to later)...so I'm a bit unclear on this part. Also - DO NOT jumper between any other pins, or you may damage the ADC, if it's not toast already. The pins are close together so you need to take some care in doing this. --According to the Service Manual, you should read about 500-600 Watts of total power consumption if the unit is in Defrost mode. I found (referring to the electrical schematic), the main red power wire (ty-wrapped to a green/yellow wire that goes to the main lights). Power is red so it's process of elimination to find the "right" red wire. It's not that hard to figure out. I also confirmed this by playing with the door switch light and watching amps go up and down as I pressed & released the door switch. Ultimately, I measured about 2.2 Amps with the unit working normally (cooling) and 6 Amps in Defrost mode...and about 120 Vac supply. So...VoltsxAmps=VA, which equates to 720VA. I don't know what the power factor of the unit is...but with the compressor and freezer fan off, and only the defrost heater and lights on...the power factor would be close to 1.0. So my reading might have been a touch high but...what it did prove is that a) the heater works (I could feel heat off of it and I had the freezer panel removed and saw it melting ice), and b) the thermostat was working. --I also confirmed proper thermostat operation by measuring it "open" with an ohmmeter after the defrost cycle and measuring it "closed" once it cooled down enough (book says ~ 45F thermostat opens and ~15F it closes (to allow defrost when commanded by ADC). --What I found was that when I jumpered L1 and TEST, the Defrost didn't come on...until I manually turned the Freezer control off - and then back on again. Once I did this it started Defrosting (amps rose from about 2 to 6, compressor and freezer fan shut off and heater started heating. I repeated this twice after waiting for the unit to cool down after the defrost cycle. You can also just unplug the fridge to terminate the Defrost cycle and if the temp hasn't risen above the thermostat setpoint, you can immediately repeat jumper testing as necessary. --The defrost heater stayed on for about 5-8 minutes and after a total of 23 minutes the compressor/fan restarted - which matched what I read somewhere - though doesn't match the ADC Instruction Manual - which I show a website for further down. --So it appears the ADC is just not entering the Defrost cycle but does exit it properly. I believe that my problem is the ADC as I proved the heater works and the thermostat (as I mentioned earlier). Other than bad/intermittent open wiring, there's nothing else in the circuit and I believe I ruled out a bad connection by taking the thermostat connector apart several times and jostling wires up at the ADC to gain access. According to what I can find, the replacement ADC for my unit is Part No. 12002495. One should verify the P/N for their particular model. You can look at the Instruction Sheet here: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023486.pdf. It also has some info on how the ADC is supposed to work...NOTE: You should verify this P/N with someone, as I will before I order it. FYI...at Partselect.com, they show a replacement PN (their #) as PS2061226, for about $61. I've seen various prices on different sites and this was pretty reasonable. Lord knows what Maytag/Sears would charge. Maybe add a "1" to the front? ;) PartSelect also indicates different "Series" numbers for the same PS number for the ADC...not sure about which one I have so Buyer beware, make sure you resolve this before ordering -- I still have to. Anyway, hope this is helpful to someone out there in cyberspace. I will have to confirm my P/N and then buy the ADC. If anyone out there, esp pros, have any suggestions feel free to chime in. Except if you are the guy that told us to defrost our auto defrost fridge to "fix" the problem, for 100 smackers no less. You Sir, should be caned 100 times for being a slug. No economic stimulus for You!

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4070 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidare refrigerator FRS26ZTH FREEZER FREEZING UP/FRIG NOT COOL

also check defrost timer,defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

My Maytag refrigerator has a horrible smell when we open the door where it is now smelling even when we do not open door.nothing in frig that is spoiled or spilt.very clean inside .this has happened t


Sure the temperature is in low enough? Sure there is not a dead mouse under or behind the fridge? Or even between food or what looks a closed bag or box? Keep looking what can be causing the smell, We can't help. because we don't have eyes on site

Jan 15, 2015 | Maytag Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore side by side freezer not freezing


I have had that problem when my Kenmore frig was surrounded by too much stuff that prevented air flow to the coils. It was also a problem when I had it on carpeting. I put a wood panel underneath the whole frig and cleared away all the clutter.

Mar 22, 2014 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

Why is my condenser freezing up, but my frig isn't cooling right? could it be the thermostat? Or is the condenser flooded?


when the evap ( the coil inside the freezer freezes up it blocks the coil causing no cold air to flow to the fresh food side. . the thermo is ok but the aditive defrost control or the heater or defrost terminator is or has failed .. mm ( you do have a defrost problem .. mm

Aug 16, 2010 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

My Maytag side by side refrigerator [mod. #MSD2656KES, Serial #50518503JL] is freezing everything on the frig side on the two top shelves. Coils have been cleaned. Temp set:Freez=3, Frig=2. One week ago...


I have this same refrigerator, also purchased in 2006. Same exact problem. Fridge freezes, starting actually in the water line, you will notice water on door does not work, then top two shelves start to freeze. Lasts for a few days, then prob does not happen again for 6 months almost to the day. I've had this problem for almost 3 years!!! My service tech said to buy another, glitch in this system he can't figure out. Replaced damper x2, control board, and thermostat x2. Not sure what else to do. I hate the thought of more food lost to spoilage!

Aug 09, 2010 | Maytag 25.6 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

3 Answers

My frig is running but not cooling - frig is 50 degrees,freezer 40 degrees, cleaned the coils,etc GE side by side coils in bottom if frig side feel cool, "box" between freezer and frig side is not blowing...


I can help you diagnose the problems with your GE. Several things can cause these symptoms. All you need is a voltage meter patience and a want to, to repair and do it better than a paid technician. In most cases with the PSS26MSRSS the defrost heater is the cause for this. Look into rear of your freezer and back wall. Is Ice or frost building on rear wall? If yes unplug and prepair to remove contents in freezer compartment. Remove rear panel in freezer and use hair dryer to defrost ice until the defrost heater is visible. BRB , Sea Breeze

Jan 23, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Maytag freezer don't freeze food or make ice


There could be several things causing the frig to be cold but not cold enough. First check thermostat control and air control. Both should be set in the middle setting for normal operation.Next check to see if evaporater fan is running in freezer. It should be running whenever compressor runs and circulates cold air inside frig as well as freezer. Next check if condensor fan motor is running. It blows air over condensor coils to remove heat. Last ,check condensor itself for dirty coils. If they are matted up with hair dust,etc. it will cause poor cooling. you can give thorough cleaning with vacuum cleaner. Hope this helps

Jul 28, 2009 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Magic Chef frig model MCBR1000F stopped cooling after 4 years.


You need to make sure the condenser pump and coils are vacuumed twice a year. Heavy dust will overheat the coils causing the freon to be more of a gas then a liquid, thus less coiling.

Jul 13, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore frig/freezer, light/power on, no cooling in frezer.


looks like you have a leak in the cooling system, call sears out right away to save yourself from an even more expensive repair.

Jun 15, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Refrigerator not cooling but freezes


You might try vaccuuming under the frig to clean the coils so it could disapate the heat more. This could cause that sytem. Also if the fan is not working.
Hoped this helped. If not let us know.

Mar 16, 2009 | Maytag MZD2766GES Side by Side...

1 Answer

Freezer not freezing


check freezer for frost build up and if fan blowing, check condenser make sure clean, and fan blowing, check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, controls should be in the middle setting, you can try turning freezer to Warmer freezer allowing MORE air to refrigertor side.

Sep 05, 2007 | Frigidaire FRT17G4B Top Freezer...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Refrigerators Logo

Related Topics:

30 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Refrigerators Experts

Charles T Nevin
Charles T Nevin

Level 3 Expert

4070 Answers

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4654 Answers

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

77201 Answers

Are you a Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...