Question about Maytag Centennial Top Load Washer
Locks lid but wont start
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I’m an owner of the FAV6800A LED console display version. You have the LCD console.
This issue could be related to a failed Control Board a failed Motor Controller. It could be related to loss of signaling to and from the lid locks.
What is your skill set level can you use a DVM to measure D.C. voltages in the machine?
If not I would recommend a knowledgeable repair service to help resolve the issue and that may be a challenge. But read on and maybe we can get you to look at the Left Hand Lid Lock,
You can raise the washer lid from the base to remove your clothes from the wash basket with this process and the Service Manual . Don’t break the Left Hand Lid Lock latche if you do you will need to replace the Left Hand Lid Lock. The machine only needs that Lid Lock to operate as designed.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Diag code 4 for both machines = The lid fails to lock. Look on page 25 for the error code description in then points you to this “”Go to "Will not unlock" Troubleshooting Section””. Confusing right?
I think you could have corrosion issues with the Left Hand lid lock. If you want to DIY this part of the machine see this post for Left Hand Lid Lock Troubleshooting.
Take a look and see what direction you want to go…..Rich
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
SOURCE: maytag centenial won't spin
Your going to check the belt and pulley inside the machine but let me warn you first, this is a knuckle busting nightmare of a machine, and if your not fond of the idea of bleeding, grease and pain, call a repair company. I'll post a few examples to help you make your mind on the topic. Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too. #2 It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.
Belt wore out
Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)
Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.
Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.
Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)
Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)
Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.
Replace pump screws.
Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.
Replace motor screws and connector.
Re-attach hoses on pump.
Button up cabinet.
The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.
Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.
Drive pump leaked
1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.
Posted on Jun 18, 2012
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 12, 2015 | Washing Machines
Jan 28, 2014 | Maytag Washing Machines
Feb 11, 2013 | Maytag Bravos Top Load Washer
Jan 08, 2013 | Maytag Bravos MTW6600T Top Load Washer
Thanks for your kind words about
the site however, please post back with its correct model no as this one seems
to be incorrect.
Aug 29, 2011 | Maytag Centennial MTW5800TW Top Load...
Jul 16, 2011 | Maytag MVWX550XW Washer
If you place a couple magnets over the left gray bumper and the "OP" error code doesn't clear then I feel you have a problem with the Left Hand Lid Lock.
See if this post will help; Left Hand Lid Lock Troubleshooting
Sep 29, 2010 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Dec 29, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer
Jan 25, 2009 | Maytag Centennial 3.2 cu. ft. SuperSize...
80 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!