Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
My washer keeps flashing F51. How do I correct it ??? Whirlpool cabrio model 580 #wtw6340ww0 serial c01470945
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
A F51 error is cause by a rotational position sensor failure or RPS. The cause of this is a faulty plug at the sensor that jitters under vibration causing incorrect readings. I have worked on about 50 of these machines and have found a kit which cures the problem. The kit is a retrofit so the lower harness has to be replaced but you will be more peaceful for doing it. For 50.53 depending on where you purchase it you can get kit # W10183157. What I will commit you to is first looking and taking photos as this is class 101. We want to note the connections on the sensor, the stator and the 2 pumps on the bottom. On the console back left and right side and middle is a phillips screw to back out until flush with its frame and then pull forward and flip to expose the mcu. First we will concentrate on the motor control unit and how the harness plugs into the unit. I could not get a photo of the motor control unit so here is how we will id the wires.
To id all the wires being replaced first gain access to the rear of the washer after unplugging the unit. We want to remove the back panel to expose the harness that runs down the left side, user looking into back of unit. On the new harness all wire colors are the same except the updated sensor wiring. This is on the right corner of the mcu and the old wires are all brown and the new is multicolor. For the rest I would unplug one and replace with the new until all are plugged in. The rest is following the process down plugging and unplugging every anchor and most important the clear hose for your pressure switch must be firmly attached as the original clips and all. after you have dressed the back side thread the old and then the new harness through the gap between the black drain hose and the tub. Tuck both under the machine and replace the back panel and clips, one metal at top and the plastic assembly where the drain hose pass through then the back panel if you feel confident it is correct. On the next step we need to access the bottom of the machine to finish our job. After tilting back and making notes on where each wire goes old and new paying note that only one pump has a pull back cover and that a special allen wrench is needed for the bolt holding the rotor on the stator. It is easier if you have a bright light and a pad to lay on. I think a 1/4 inch allen key fits the special bolt. After you remove the rotor, translucent plastic with magnets inside we need to lower the stator. There is 4 5/16 bolts with a metal plate and then the stator will drop and have a grey shield on the back to protect the poles and RPS assembly. Now do the plugs as we did the top. The last anchor on the RPS end of the harness does not half to be inserted until we stretched and compared our work with what we saw on the old harness. Reverse the procedure, Shield,stator with metal washer in and out, holding this in place with the washer is easier with a 1/2 tsp. of heavy grease to stabilize the metal washer on the outside as you try to insert the bolts to hold it together with the shield and inside metal washer. Once these are finger tight inspect the harness for correct anchoring and proper wiring. Tighten these 5/16 bolts like putting a tire on a Honda Civic.Now the rotor goes back on the spline, do not force just turn until it is easy and slips in about a 1/2 inch. It slips in from the magnets and once it does tighten the bolt firmly. Now set the machine down and put into a rinse spin cycle and test it
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
Is there water in the bottom of the tub? If yes then open back of washer and remove drain pump (on left side) and pull off of tub and clear whatever is blocking its impeller.
If the water is all gone and drained but pump stays on for several minutes and then gives "LD" fault then open back and check the small clear tube that is attached to the tub. Make sure is not blocked with debris and check tube and tub for anything that could block the small clear tube. If these are ok then remove 3 screws in back of the control panel, pull open control panel and check the clear tub all the way up from the tub to the washer controller board (computer) make sure it is not kinked or disconnected. If not then the problem is most likely the pressure sensor on the (computer). This unit will have to be replaced.
You can test the sensor by doing the following: 1. When the "LD" fault comes on start by pressing the pause button. then pull the clear tube off of the computer board. Then attach a tight fitting drinking straw over the sensor. Press the start button and wait for 60 seconds - If the washer does not start the spin cycle on its own after the 60 seconds then **** on the drinking straw that you attached to the pressure sensor earlier. The sucking action should reset the sensor thus telling the computer that the water is drained and it will start the spin cycle. Just remember if you have to do this to get the washer to spin - that means the sensor is damaged most likely from moisture traveling up the tube over time. The computer board will need to be replaced. I believe it costs $205 without shipping. Hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
F51 error is a rotor position sensor error, two parts really need to be replaced. 1) the rotor sensor itself ($43) and 2) the control board ($197)
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
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