Question about Whirlpool LGR8648 Gas Dryer
No heat and timer doesnt move.
If no heat at all i suspect this part HERE. This is the fuse. It kills power to the gas assembly if junk gets into the filter housing and cause an overheat condition. On electric models this same fuse kills the whole dryer. On gas models it just kills the gas. If that is good the next thing to check is the flame detection sensor mounted out side of the burner chamber. It's job is to power up the ignitor. If it is open no power can get to the ignitor. If it is good then the next thing to check is the ignitor. If the ignitor is good AND you are getting power from that control klixon you mentioned with the 4 wires on it AND you can get a little heat at first but then none at all them coils need to be replaced. Here is my home video:
Posted on Dec 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The following link will give you the information you need:
I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2008
No..you need to replace your 3-prong power cord with a new 4-prong power cord. The following link explains how:
It is a requirement that newer homes have the 4-wire outlet configuration. If your home came with this style outlet, you must update the appliance to be within the National Electrical Code specifications.
The main difference is the way the Neutral (WHITE) wire and the Ground (GREEN) wire is installed. The neutral and ground are independent of each other in a 4-wire configuration. Simply put: Ground the green wire to the equipment cabinet or ground lug. Remove any grounding strap that is on the terminal block for the neutral wire. The instructions I provided will explain this.
If you have any questions, please ask. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
The reason for the 4-wire plug/socket system is that in the older 3-wire units, cabinet 'ground' was actually 'neutral' carrying current for the 115 volt parts of the dryer, while the two 'hots' were supplying 230 volt power for the heater and motor. This allowed a voltage difference between the dryer cabinet and true ground. How did you wire 3-wires (coming from the apartment electrical panel) into the 4-wire dryer socket? Dryer cabinet ground should go to true ground at the electrical panel, and dryer neutral should go to electrical panel neutral. Did Whirlpool violate the separation of 'neutral' and 'ground' when the machine was made (did the timer neutral connection go to cabinet ground instead of machine neutral or is the timer motor stuck)? Your dilemma would be answered by having the apartment owner hire a licensed electrician to upgrade the dryer service to 4-wire specifications. The ground to neutral connection you mentioned may make it work, but you will wind up with the 'hot' cabinet condition that the 4-wire setup was supposed to alleviate. Hope some of this helps!
Posted on Jun 04, 2010
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