Question about Whirlpool LGR8648 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool LGR8648pwo. Runs not heat and timer doesnt move. I found a 4 prong sensor in the back of the unit. 2 prongs have continuity and the other 2 dont. Is that bad.

No heat and timer doesnt move.

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 8,220 Answers

If no heat at all i suspect this part HERE. This is the fuse. It kills power to the gas assembly if junk gets into the filter housing and cause an overheat condition. On electric models this same fuse kills the whole dryer. On gas models it just kills the gas. If that is good the next thing to check is the flame detection sensor mounted out side of the burner chamber. It's job is to power up the ignitor. If it is open no power can get to the ignitor. If it is good then the next thing to check is the ignitor. If the ignitor is good AND you are getting power from that control klixon you mentioned with the 4 wires on it AND you can get a little heat at first but then none at all them coils need to be replaced. Here is my home video:

Posted on Dec 09, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool dryer

no go to a home store like lowe's home depot or others ad buy a switch kit

Posted on Feb 22, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: 3 prong tail to a 4 prong tail on a whirlpool dryer

The following link will give you the information you need:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

I hope this helps you. Let me know if you have any questions.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Estate Dryer barely heating

jumps on the mony turn your breaker off first ok

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: front loader whirlpool dryer (04') 3-prong cord; 4-prong outlet..

No..you need to replace your 3-prong power cord with a new 4-prong power cord. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

It is a requirement that newer homes have the 4-wire outlet configuration. If your home came with this style outlet, you must update the appliance to be within the National Electrical Code specifications.

The main difference is the way the Neutral (WHITE) wire and the Ground (GREEN) wire is installed. The neutral and ground are independent of each other in a 4-wire configuration. Simply put: Ground the green wire to the equipment cabinet or ground lug. Remove any grounding strap that is on the terminal block for the neutral wire. The instructions I provided will explain this.

If you have any questions, please ask. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: I have used tedx640eq0 whirlpool dryer. Just moved

The reason for the 4-wire plug/socket system is that in the older 3-wire units, cabinet 'ground' was actually 'neutral' carrying current for the 115 volt parts of the dryer, while the two 'hots' were supplying 230 volt power for the heater and motor. This allowed a voltage difference between the dryer cabinet and true ground. How did you wire 3-wires (coming from the apartment electrical panel) into the 4-wire dryer socket? Dryer cabinet ground should go to true ground at the electrical panel, and dryer neutral should go to electrical panel neutral. Did Whirlpool violate the separation of 'neutral' and 'ground' when the machine was made (did the timer neutral connection go to cabinet ground instead of machine neutral or is the timer motor stuck)? Your dilemma would be answered by having the apartment owner hire a licensed electrician to upgrade the dryer service to 4-wire specifications. The ground to neutral connection you mentioned may make it work, but you will wind up with the 'hot' cabinet condition that the 4-wire setup was supposed to alleviate. Hope some of this helps!

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

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1 Answer

Whirlpool freezer has ice in the bottom of it


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!

THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.



Top Freezer Thermistor Testing Replacement Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Freezer Frost Repair Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM



Feb 10, 2017 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why do the evaporator coil frost up across the back of the coils and not on front next to door about 4 inches?


Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling...


Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.

May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.

u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?

Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.

Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SJN8oaA2XE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buX9KcZo2c0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVXT7pZyk_o


God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Kenmore Whirlpool refrigerator frost build up in freezer not cooling... Freezer Frost Repair Refrigerator Repair Frosting up in freezer not cooling Admiral RSCA207AAM


Mar 08, 2016 | Frost Refrigerators

1 Answer

I need directions on how to clean it and get the ice out


the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?


need-directions-clean-get-ice-out-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-0.jpg

need-directions-clean-get-ice-out-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-2.jpg

need-directions-clean-get-ice-out-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-5.jpg

need-directions-clean-get-ice-out-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-9.jpg

need-directions-clean-get-ice-out-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-14.jpg

need-directions-clean-get-ice-out-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-20.jpg

May 20, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool refrigerator gb2fhdxwq01 and the defrost doesn't work, what can I do?


Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:


AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NPOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required


God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.






causes-defrost-not-work-whirlpool-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-0.jpg

causes-defrost-not-work-whirlpool-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-2.jpg

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causes-defrost-not-work-whirlpool-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-9.jpg

causes-defrost-not-work-whirlpool-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-14.jpg

causes-defrost-not-work-whirlpool-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-20.jpg

causes-defrost-not-work-whirlpool-kvax0h5nolktkyinzrohy2he-2-27.jpg

May 20, 2015 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why in double door whirlpool 242 let's, bottom part is frozen, how to rectify


Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:

AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!



Mar 28, 2015 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool over an under freezer an


AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM

Dec 11, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Trigger manual defrost mode on fridge


check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .

Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

25171812-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-0.jpg

25171812-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-2.jpg

25171812-iizpua1124tc1voeqjalmrl5-3-5.jpg

Oct 02, 2014 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

Why doesn't the timer count down? The dryer runs & heats but the Timer doesn't move. I replaced the Timer block but nothing changed. Is this related to a bad sensor?


go bak to 4 prong. why did u change it out? souns lik this isa 220 unit and not a 110? chk the book that came with the unit. lol.

Jul 22, 2014 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not heating and timer dosen't move


A dryer runs 2 halfs (one half 120, the other 120). Sounds like you are missing the 120 that operates those two. Did you change from a four prong to a three prong?

Jun 02, 2012 | Whirlpool LEB6200 Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool Estate Dryer barely heating


Four wires on the new cord.
Red and Black go to outside screws on the terminal.
White goes to the middle terminal.
Green goes to the cabinet ground screw near the terminal plate cover.

Mar 11, 2009 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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