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1. Open the door. 2. on the door appature above the lock mechanism toward the outer skin of the door you should see two holes one ovalish shaped and one round shaped. 3. pry covers off circular hole (inner). 4. insert hook type tool (if you dont have one make one by putting a cheap small flathead scredriver in the vice and bending it into a small L shape at the end about 5mm. 5. pull latch mechanism loose (you will have to look for the latch with a small light or feel around for it. 6. put outer door handle capping (the stubby part) out by prying off gently and then wiggling. 7. slide main part of door handle toward newly exposed hole created by removing capping and then remove.
8. thank me for saving you from tearing your hair out. If we all bought Japanese we wouldent have these ****** problems.
A bugaboo brake fault can be caused by any one of the three parts that make up the brake system.
1/ The cable and cable adjustment screw. 2/ The brake lever assembly. 3/ The brake shoe assembly.
I've listed the three parts in the order of most likely to cause your brake problem. First I'll give a quick over view of how the brake should work then we'll look at the 3 parts in more detail.
Lifting the brake lever up pulls up on the brake cable, a ratchet in the lever keeps any tension until you press the release button in the centre of the lever. The cable pulls up on a toothed brake shoe and via a connecting axle a matching brake shoe on the other side, these brake shoes engage a set of matching teeth on the inside rims of the rear wheels thus locking the wheels.A spring on the cable side brake shoe disengages the brake shoes when the release button disengages the ratchet in the brake lever.This is a simple system with most parts in plain view so you can see the operation of all parts except the ratchet inside the lever.
1/ The brake cable is the most likely cause of most brake problems.Like all cables they can stretch, stick and snap.If the brake lever seems to work OK but the breaks don't hold very well try adjusting the cable tension by winding out the cable adjustment screw at the bottom of the cable thus taking up any slack and bringing the brake shoes up tighter into the wheel rims.A sticky or broken cable should be obvious by observing the brake action as you pull and release the brake lever.Run some sewing machine or 3 in 1 oil down the inner cable wire if it's sticky. If broken you can make anew cable yourself. You will need a universal bicycle brake cable kit and a solder less nipple. The Bugaboo has an odd double nipple design. Your replacement cable will only have one end the same as the Bugaboo.The other end will be either bare or have the pear style nipple.This you would cut off.Using the old cable as your guide, you cut the new outer cable to 75 cm and fit the ferrules supplied with the kit. The matching nipple will be the top (lever) end of the cable, reuse the old adjuster and slip it on to the bottom end followed by the solder less nipple.Set the nipple 89 cm from its opposite.Depending on the cable and nipple you buy you may need to drill the plastic parts out to ease the fit.If this sounds to complicated just print this out and give it to your local bike shop.
2/ The brake lever assembly is made up of the lever, a release button, a small compression spring and the outer bracket that holds it all on the handle. The bracket also holds the left handle release button.The most common problem is the ratchet fails to hold and this is a safety issue as it can fail quite suddenly!Either the small compression spring has broken (unlikely) the screws holding the assembly loosen (hopefully) or the teeth on the button and outer bracket have worn down (most likely).Try first to tighten the two screws, if that does not help take the two screws out.It's a simple mechanism the button sits inside the lever it can move in and out of the lever but can't turn as it has splines that lock it to the lever.A compression spring pushes the top outer edge of the button against the inner side of the bracket; they both have serrated teeth that lock them together. The raised centre of the button protrudes though the bracket.Pushing on the center of the button disengages the interlocking teeth of the ratchet. The compression spring can be found in most hardware stores, worn ratchet teeth can be reshaped with a rotary modeling tool like the Demel.
3/ If the Brake shoes are the problem it will be obvious,broken expansion springs are easily replaced, stripped threads on the cable adjuster can be sorted at your local bike shop and broken parts either repaired by a plastic welder / bumper repair shop or replaced with parts from a salvaged frame. The most common problem is one shoe engaging before the other. Take the screw out of the connecting shaft of the shoe that engages first adjust shoe to match other side and drill a new screw hole.
shoe breaks are tricky but can be a little easier with practice and the right tools; What you;ll nned: Spring pliers Shoe hold down tool Diagonal side cutters. Needle nose pliers Flathead screw driver.
this project is easy so long as you can remember how the parts go back together.
!. remove brake drum. 2. see how the brakes fit together. REMEMBER HOW THE BRAKE BAR GOES BACK IN. IT ONLY WORKS CORRECTLY ONE WAY!
the brake bar is the metal piece that goes between the brake shoes. 3. remove the brake shoe springs with the spring pliers. *THE BRAKES HOW HIGH POWERED SPRINGS AND SHOULD BE HANDLED CAREFULLY* 4. remove the brake shoes with the spring tool. 5. clean parts thoroughly with brake part cleaner. (i like spraying it into a glass jar and shaking it a little) you can use a wire wheel to brush to clean the harder material. then take some brake cleaner and spray down the backing plate and remove any and all grease and old brake material. 6. using brake grease, dab a small amount on the adjuster and the small oval shaped pads on the backing plate, *use a SMALL AMOUNT* less then a finger nail in size. 7. reassembly, now compare the shoes and take note that there are 2 long and 2 short shoes. thte larger shoes go in the front and the smaller go to the rear of the vehicle. set the pairs aside so you do not confuse them. next a fix the shoes to the backing plate and then set the adjuster to the lowest setting, (shortest). and set the brake bar in place then set the springs (the longer springs) 8. adjusting the shoes. slip the drum on the hub and spin the brake, it should feel like it has a bit of drag. keep slipping the drum on and off making adjustments to the adjuster till the drum either is adjusted correctly or you cannot remove it, if you need to adjust the brake further there is an access in the backing plate for further adjustment.
Are you talking about the cap nut that threads onto the chuck? It is very rare that it would strip out. Word of warning if you do find one and thread it back on. You need to have a chisel in the chuck and have the chisel end locked in a vise. This protects from breaking the gear housing on the inside where the shift dog rides up and down.
Those parts are no longer available but you can still find some used on Ebay. Also the TE-72 used the same chuck parts.
It's usually the window winder that presents the problem . Remove all visable retaining screws ie; Grab handle , Internal door opening lever , Button on top of panel (if applicable ) etc . The majority panel are a pop snap on type . Remove the winder lever withthe aid of a shoe lace or thin piece of cloth material, The winder is retained by a horse-shoe shaped spring clip. .... Pull the shoe-lace/ material in the opposite direction of the winder retainer clip and it will easily come off, but it is a spring clip and may fly off so be careful. Good luck
you can purchase a special tool for brakes There is a special tool for the springs the two on the side of the horse shoe shape ones, and a special tool for the two ciccular ones on the side, One is a special type of pliers, and the other is a handle type driver tool