Question about Water Heaters

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Water won't stay hot long

The burner comes on when it's supposed to and heats the water but must not heat it completely because the hot water runs out too soon. Any suggestions?

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  • Water Heaters Master
  • 5,089 Answers

1) Thermostat may be bad, or out of calibration. Set temperature higher, and/or troubleshoot by type of gas control.
Copy following link to troubleshoot by type of gas control valve:

2) Dip tube broken

3) Water leak running hot water out of tank.
Turn off all taps and put ear against pipe listening for water leak.

Posted on Dec 09, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: gas hot water tank. burner lights,water doesn't

gas regulator gone bad

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

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SOURCE: burner didn't ignite on my AO Smith model FXGT/PGXT

Unless your AO is a high recover it will take a while for it to fill up with the water that you have used then reheat the water in the tank.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: Not enough hot water to complete shower. Noticed

If it is a new water heater it might be that the water supplies are crossed. The cold water should be installed on the right hand side of the tank or on the bottom if your tank hooks up on the side. If its an older water heater the dip tube may have broken off. This is a tube that runs from the top of your water heater on the cold side to the lower portion of the tank.It puts the cold water in the bottom of the heater which pushes the hot water to the top.To change the dip tube out you must disconnect the cold water supply from the 3/4 inch nipple at the top of the tank. Then with a pipe wrench unscrew the nipple from the tank it will have the remainder of the tube on it.You can get a replacement dip tube at a plumming supply. Installation is opposite of removal. If this is your problem I suggest you get a new water heater .Usually its caused from minnerals in the water or buy two dissimiler metals being connected together in the water piping system causing corrosion Your water heater will probably fail in the near future.

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

  • 120 Answers

SOURCE: Hi there, I have a rinnai 20 ,the water heats up

Usually this type of fault is down to poor water flow. Basically you are asking the unit to work at a level below it's minimum output. Easy thing to try is to check any filters or water flow limiters in your tapware. Usually these are in the nozzle of the tap. I often take these out. The inifinty reduces water flow anyway and there is no reason to have water limiters. Try turning on two taps at once. If this stops the fault then you definately need to increase your water flow. Make sure the mains water is turned on full. Aslo you can check the cold water filter on the infinity. It's just above the cold water isolation tap (middle pipe as you look at it), turn that off first, the filter is a round plastic nut, unscreww it and clean the filter. Reconnect, turn you mains water back on.
There are other faults but this is by far the most common.

Posted on Aug 15, 2010

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool gas water heater model FG1H5040T3NV. The

Hello. I see this all the time with these Whirlpool units. Do this:
Make sure that the end of the thermocouple is over the pilot light. The therocouple needed to be pushed farther thru the hole in the bracket.

That may solve your problem, I hope it does.

That said, if this is a new unit, seriously consider returning it. IF it is not new and the suggestion above does not solve the problem replace the thermocouple. IF that does not solve it, replace the gas valve. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

Posted on Nov 29, 2010

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Thermocouple has 2 ends. One end attaches to gas control valve, other end sits inside the pilot flame.
Flame heats thermocouple, causing tiny electrical current that is detected inside the gas control valve and keeps the gas valve open so water heater can turn on when thermostat calls for heating.
If pilot goes out, then no electric current reaches gas control, and all gas to burner and pilot is shut off.

If pex line burst, that implies very high pressure, caused by closed system with check valve that stops expansion, or possible clog in the water line, or high local water pressure, or clogged factory-installed heat traps.
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If the water was super hot, then overheating could have caused the pipe explosion.
However the gas control thermostat is ECO protected, and if ECO (energy cut off) trips because of high heat detected inside the tank or combustion chamber, the gas control will trip off and no longer work, gas control needs to be replaced. Some newer electronic gas controls can be reset, but that type heater uses a thermopile instead of thermocouple.
Thermopile is basically a group of thermocouples, that product more electric current that is used to power electronics inside the gas control valve, which issues an error code on the gas control, and some day will send a text message each time out-of-range event occurs.

Copy following links for troubleshoot resources, including troubleshoot by type of gas control valve:

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The pilot won't stay lit on gas hot water tank.

Make sure thermocouple tip is seated inside the burner flame.
Make sure thermocouple is not overtightened. Finger-tight + 1/4 turn.
If the pilot lights, then ECO energy cut off is not tripped, but gas control valve might be bad.
Check color of pilot flame: it should be strong and clear blue.
If pilot flame is weak, or color of flame is yellow-orange: Clean pilot orifice and burner and combustion parts on yearly basis.
Clean air intake screen if applicable.
Increase air supply to water heater. Open a window and see what happens.
Check for adequate draft going up chimney using match under vent hood to see if smoke drafts immediately upwards.
Bleed air out of gas line.
Check gas pressure.

Open following links for troubleshoot resources:

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My gas water heater pilot light will not stay lit

Hi Mike,
1stly you have to understand what the pilot light does!
Yes, it lights the flame, but it protects you from gassing yourself!
that is thye main job!
hava a look inside!
In front of the pilot flame, (it might have a double flame... (one flame on the bottom & another on top.) is a curved piece of metal plate. The flame is supposed to heat that plate untill it it very hot! Thenm the plate bends down as it is a bimetyaalivc strip!
This opens the bsaety valve & you can let go.
The flame will noe stay on. If a gush of wind blows the flame out, the strip will cool & the safety valve close, preventing a dead family in the morning.
There is a newer system as well.
Right in front of the flame, is a pointed sensor with it's tip in the flame. . It has a electric cable running to a safety valve. This sensor have to heat up as well. It is a heat battery that activates the valve. See that it did not move!
If it heats up, & the valve does not keep the pilot flame going after a few seconds, the unit has to be replaced!
Safety first!

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1 Answer

No hot water, replaced both elements, replaced breaker switch, pressed reset button, fire from breaker to heater, frie to top and bottom unit. still no hot water, is unit itself bad?

I had this same EXACT problem. I replaced both elements, and STILL no hot water. Power to everything, but no hot water. So, I got online, and got educated.

THEN what I did was to replace the Thermostats, both the top (master) and the bottom. Cost was reasonable, I think all told it was 24.00 for both elements, and about 40.00 for both thermos. Got the thermos at the same plumbing supply store where I got the elements.

This fixed my problem, I now have great hot water.

The way the water heater works is that the top thermo is the master, and when the water needs to be heated, it turns on the bottom one first. This is because that when you turn on a tap, the hot water is taken from the TOP of the tank, and the new water coming into the tank comes in to the BOTTOM. This means that during normal operation, the water in the top of the tank will pretty much stay hot, and only the water in the bottom will need to be heated. Your bad Thermostats are not reading the temperature any more, so it isn't sending power, (or rather grounding) the circuit to the elements. Since the entire tank is cold, it is probably the top one that is bad, since it turns on the the lower element (or, I should say, the lower thermostat) FIRST. The elements always have power, the switch in the thermos just works by grounding, and thereby completing, the circuit.

Either one of your thermos could be bad, or both. I thought for myself that if one went bad, then it won't be long till the other goes bad too, so I just replaced them both. On mine, they just snapped out, and snapped back in, they just kind of sit against the tank, and there is only 4 or 5 wires to hook back up.

I am assuming that you are competent to do it, since you already know how to replace the elements, and obviously have a voltage tester to see if you have power everywhere you supposed to have it. One thing, too, make sure that both of the Temperature Stettings on the thermostats are exactly the same. You do not want one to read 125, and the other to read 150, or whatever. Set them both to the same temp.

This should fix ya, and it is a heck of a lot cheaper than a whole new water heater. The only reason to completely replace an electric hot water heater is if the tank has rusted through and is leaking, or if it has filled up with sediment. Or physically damaged in some irrepairable way. Other than that, this cheap repair should do it.

Good Luck To You.

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