Question about Samsung 275TPLUS Monitor
I have a Syncmaster 275T plus 27 inch monitor that was old stock, never opened until recently. Out of the box, the power light would come on but the screen would not show anything. I took the power board out, had it tested and it is good, but still no picture. Any idea why it is not working? All capacitors look new and are since it was never turned on until recent attempts. I am looking for a service manual also. It may have clues as to why it is not working. Thank you.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hi this is the way how to examine
what's wrong with your LCD monitors. After you turned it on and the screen
blacked out or stopped working, you have to check that if you can see the image on the screen or
not by shining a flashlight into the screen, not directly but find the best
angle to the screen and take a look very closely. If you can see the icons or
any image, there will be a minor problem. This is because of the lamps inside
screen. Some of them were broken and it is very easy to replace. If you cannot
see anything on the screen, there'll be some problems with inverter board. If you
have soldering tool and want to fix it by yourself, check the caps first. It
may cause this problem. Some caps might show leaking or burn spot on the board
because of too high temp. If you don't have soldering tool, you better go get a
technician to do so.
Hope this help!! If anything I can help you with, feel free to let me know.
Posted on Mar 26, 2008
SOURCE: Samsung 215TW Monitor Flicker
Its the capacitors on the backlight power supply. Samsung installed crappy ones and they blow up after a year or two. Change out the caps and you're good to go
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
Look for any bulging capacitors, instead of a flat top they will look "pregnant".
If you see any of those then replace them with capacitors of the same UF rating and the voltage needs to be either the same or higher.
If you dont see any bulging capacitors or burnt parts, then its got be the LCD at that point thats not staying on and the cost to replace the LCD is as much if not more then to just get another monitor.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
First of all plug another monitor to the VC on your PC and do the same for the SamSung"I over heat"SyncMaster2 053BW.
Oct 23, 2009 - This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...
HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW
NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.
Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
savato321, Most black screen lcd monitor owners don't have the smarts to open up their monitors to do a VISUAL inspection of the "switch-mode-power-supply/inverter supply!!!! You're good. Now you will need to know some stuff about electrolytic filter capacitors! First, the "uf" or "UF" means micro-farad! It is just a rating given to express the storage capacity of the device. Next is the voltage rating. A 16v rating means that the capacitor should never be placed in a circuit where the voltage will exceed 10 to 12 volts DC. Your 820 uf cap rated at 25volts will most likely be in a 12 to 18volt dc circuit. Now for temperature rating. All caps have a maximum temp rating. Most clock radios, stereos, will use 85 degree centegrade rated caps. Printers,PCs,monitors, will use 105 degree C rated capacitors. Never replace with lower specification units! You can GO up but never DOWN. If 1000uf 25v is all you can get it's OK. If you can get 820uf 35v units and they are not too big and they will fit on the board sure you can use them. I would stick with the OEM design voltage rating. Electrolytic CAPS are polarized!! You must replace them + to + and - to -!!! If you screw -up they will blow-up!! The wire lead closest to the printed STRIPE on the cap will be the negative and the unmarked terminal will be the positive. If you visit www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm you will get more info on recapping your SMPS. You can also watch some DIY videos at YOUTUBE for "lcd monitor repair" that might be helpful. Also visually inspect the SMPS/inverter printed circuit board for "COLD" FROSTY looking solder joints. They should all have near mirror finish to them. Let us know the name of the BAD CAPS you remove from your unit. You may even want to document with pics with a digital camera what you find. Well, good luck guy. 12fixlouie
Posted on Dec 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 17, 2012 | Samsung Open Box SyncMaster C27A750X...
Apr 04, 2012 | Samsung Syncmaster 275T Monitor
May 26, 2011 | Samsung SyncMaster 275T+ 27" Wide Format...
Mar 03, 2011 | Samsung SyncMaster 551 15" CRT Monitor
Dec 21, 2009 | Samsung SyncMaster 740N 17" LCD Monitor
Sep 04, 2009 | Samsung Syncmaster 275T Monitor
Jul 22, 2009 | Samsung Syncmaster 275T Monitor
Feb 24, 2009 | Samsung SyncMaster 710N 17" LCD Monitor
Oct 04, 2008 | Samsung SyncMaster 710N 17" LCD Monitor
44 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: