- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Try pushing the trigger forward while cocking it, if it locks it's probably a bad trigger spring. Remove the hammer/lock assembly, it's only two screws, and have a look inside. The lock is very simple and should become obvious once you're in there.
Hi, Take the drill apart using a star driver. When taking the chuck assembly from the yellow section have the drill chuch down to stop bits falling out. Once handle is apart popout the triggger assembly. Remove the two power leads from the assembly. Try a direct connection to the battery (polarity doesn't matter. If the motor goes it means that the trigger is U/S. Put a tester across the terminals (either set). You may have a short (as I had). It appears to me that the trigger is not user servicable. I used one from a DeWalt recip saw with a mod on the reverse lever. Works well.
Dewalt uses about 4 or 5 orings within the gun made of semi clear urethane that fail (turn gummy and breake apart). Two are under the bulkhead and at least two in the trigger valve. To remove the bulkhead pull up on the white housing. With housing and cylinder assembly out, push down on the black retainer at the very bottom and remove the oring(take a picture of the assembly after each stage so that you can re-assemble the spring and checkvalve correctly). You will find two large orings under the bulkhead against the cylinder that need to be replaced (also the orings in the trigger, or replace the trigger valve ).
You will need to remove the trigger before driving out the roll pin. After you remove the trigger and roll pin, place a rag over the trigger, remove your hand from the area, and briefly hook up your air line. (Clean your soiled pants after this part) You will hear a loud pop and the trigger assembly is going to come out quickly. If you are not prepared for this it will scare the **** out of you. Then once you have the trigger assembly out you can push the two retaining pins on the assembly out and remove the inner workings of the trigger. One note of caution. The ring you are trying to replace is a hard half moon looking ring that Bostitch doesn''t sell separately. You may see it in pieces when you take this assembly apart, or you may not. Sometimes it crumbles and comes out of the trigger exhaust. You can try to match up an oring to sit in there, but from experience it is much easier and less costly to just order the whole trigger valve. Hope this helps.
I'm not sure on the cost but I replaced mine a few weeks ago and man o man what a job!!! I had to take apart the wheel assembly on the pass side.....pull the axle...jack the engine. 1st time 10 hrs.....2nd time thanx to a fualty replacement alt. 6 hrs. Good luck