Question about Bosch 24 in. SGS43C12 Classixx Free-Standing Dishwasher

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Sgs43a Dishwasher After 4 years service I went to switch on the machine and it is completely DEAD- no lights - nothing. All obvious things like power & water supplt have been checked & are OK. Any ideas? Or is it destined for the scrapyard? It has been making groaning noises on initial fill, incidentally.

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  • dan singh
    dan singh Jun 21, 2007

    Thanks for that - I checked it and the power supply cable is OK. I have stripped the door and found power at the switch. The switch also works fine and delivers voltage to the next stage - the conrol module. As there are no ligths on when powered up my conclusion is the control module is faulty. These are quite expensive - part number is Siemens 5WK57751 and costs 350 upwards. I'm better off buting a second hand machine off Ebay for £45....
    I bought Bosch as I was under the misapprehension it was a good brand. It seems you may as well pay the least as cheap machines will last at least 4 years. Buying "premium" brands is a mug's game.

  • dan singh
    dan singh Jul 04, 2007

    I have inspected both boards closely and all connections appear good. I also tested the continuity across all the contacts and only had a reading across 2 of them - but I don't really know what I'm looking for here. Thanks for your help Rotu, I will keep looking for a cheap replacemet module.

  • dittim May 11, 2010

    We have the problem with the wire nut meltdown in our Siemens dishwasher. It seems that everyone recommends the replacement, but is there a way to keep it from happening or is it a flaw in manufacturing? Does Bosch/Seimens handle a recall fix or do you just keep replacing the wirenuts? some postings state it is a power amp issue?? Thank you for any help you can give!

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Most of the time with dead bosch dishwashers, i find that the wire nut has melted where the service cord is connected to the appliance. This connection is on the lower right side of the dishwasher. you get to it by removing the two screws from the toe kick, then removing the screw holding the cover on the metal junction box, if it has one. Make sure power is off, then check the two connections inside that box. Usually the black wire is melted and needs to be repaired and re-connected with a new wire nut. Good luck!

Posted on Jun 18, 2007

  • Douglas Henry
    Douglas Henry Jun 24, 2007

    If you open up that control board, there will likely be a bad solder connection that is pretty obvious most times. It is on the back half of the control board, the one that doesnt have the buttons. If you clean up that joint and re solder it, it should work for a good long time. Have seen this problem many times, but it doenst usually kill the dishwasher completely. Might at least try it before replacing it.

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