Question about Lutron Electrical Supplies

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Room has wired 3-way switches, but light fixt is missing. Fixt box has 2 sets of wires (2-wires + gnd) coming in. How do I connect a simple light fixt?

One switch is a Lutron 603p Dimmer with a toggle switch below the slider. The other switch is a Leviton 3-way toggle.

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  • Master
  • 843 Answers

You probably had a fan/light fixture there. One set of wires (probably coming from the dimmer) would be for the light. The other set of wires (probably coming from the switch) would be for the fan. With the power off, temporarily hook up two lamps, one to each set of wires. Then turn on the power and see which switch controls which wires. It is possible that one set of wires is passing through to another light fixture - in that case, that wire will be dead. Good luck!

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: wiring dimmer to knob and tube

You should attach the green grounding wire to the metal box using a green grounding screw. You don't want to leave the wire loose, as any contact with the switch screws could cause a short.

Also, you should wrap the switch with at least 2-3 complete wraps of electrical tape to prevent the screws from contacting the sides of the wall box.

As a side note, you should likely have a complete check done on your house if you still have knob and tube wiring installed, as the dangers associated with this very old wiring are many. Typically, older K&T wiring was used in homes well over 60 years ago and houses then only had minimal electric current drawing devices, such as lights and a couple of other small appliance devices (toasters, coffee pot, TV and radio, etc.)

The problem with older homes with K&T wiring still in use, is that the circuits can be easily overloaded with modern electric convinences and lead to a possible fire situation, especially since there is no dedicated ground to help mitigate short circuits, etc. Also, the rubber based insulation used on this type of wiring deteriorates after 40 years (+/-) and rodents tend to chew on exposed wires in attics and crawl spaces.

I don't wish to alarm anyone, but as a Licensed Master Electrician, I've seen and done my share of repair work involving Knob & Tube wiring and even had a couple of homes that had a mix of it and other, newer wiring, that I've completely rewired. Many states require K&N wiring be replaced before a home can be sold, so getting a jump on it will make your home safer and better suited to operate all the devices that people tend to have, in today's society.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 4 can lights wired to two 3 wire Lutron

The interior flood light bulbs were the new flourescent energy savers. I replaced them with incandescent and it worked with the dimmers.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I am replacing an old dimmer switch with a new

ON one side of your switch it is connected with a small peice of metal or should be. That is why it only explains 3 wire instead of 4. If you look you can find the one you need with 4 spots to put your wires. Just look or ask your store for what you need. They can be very helpful in helping you find what your looking for. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 05, 2010

  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: I would like to install

The circuit you are working on is a 3-location circuit - where two of the devices were 3-way switches, and the remaining device (the one you are trying to replace with a dimmer) is a 4-way switch. Standard dimmers like the one you're using CAN NOT be used to replace a 4-way location. If you wanted to use it to replace either of the 3-way switches, that's no problem - but what you're doing right now will not work.

If you absolutely want to dim the lights from that specific electrical box, my suggestion is to upgrade to a "smart dimmer" where instead of a basic dimmer and two light switches, you have three devices that talk to one another and all dim the lights together.

In terms of your ground wire questions - ground wires certainly aren't necessary to make the whole thing work - rather they're there for safety. Sometimes installers will ground the device by connecting the ground wire to the backbox (assuming its metal) and then rely on the mounting screws on the dimmer or switch to perform the grounding. There are some code rules/exceptions for allowing the device to not be grounded (usually when its in a plastic, non-combustible backbox). If you want to make sure everything is completely up to code (which are usually goverened by local municipalities), you should consult a licensed electrician - but above all else, just use good judgement. Long story short, if the devices weren't grounded before, you can't make it any worse.

Posted on Feb 01, 2011

  • 158 Answers

SOURCE: I'M REPLACING AN OLD LEVITON

with a three way switch like this, you will have two traveller wires and a common wire. Look in the instructions for the switch or on the back of the device itself to see if there is a wire labeled "common" or "com". This common wire from the old switch hooks up to the common wire on the new switch. I did a bit of searching on the leviton 6602, but couldn't find anything specifically about the three way version (I would venture to guess, however, that the red wire on the old switch is the common). The common on one of the three way switches will always be a constant hot (or power) wire...the common on the other three way switch will be the "switch leg" or the wire that connects directly to the light. The two travellers go to the other two wires. Check the pamplet that came with the lutron device, it should show which wire is common and which are travellers.

Posted on Sep 24, 2011

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I have a box that has four 110(black, white and copper) wires coming in. (1) is power, (2) is light (3) is outlet & (4) is light across the room. I need power to (2), (3) & (4) but need a switch to (2)...


Firstly (1) will be Black=hot, White=neutral and Copper=Ground. Don't work on these wires with them live.
All copper wires will be connected together and if possible, the metal box earth lug.
You will need a SPST or SPDT switch (image of SPDT switch is shown below) to mount in your junction box. If your switch has a ground lug, you need to also connect the copper wire there.
(1) Black will connect to Switch Common, (3) Black and (4) Black. Note: all can connect to the Switch Common connection as the switch will generally allow 3 wires to be connected per terminal; one push terminal and two screw pressed terminals.
(1) White will be connected to (2) White, (3) White and (4) White. For this connection, you can use a twist cap of the correct size to parallel these neutral wires.
(2) Black will connect to other free connection on the switch. There may be two free connections, so the one you use will basically determine which direction the switch will be on/off.
Once connected and checked, you can power up. If correctly wired, you should now have switched power to (2) and continuous power to (3) and (4).
I hope this helps with your inquiry.

box-four-110-black-white-copper-wires-geqo3rpjkssrxzxhie5nv2kf-1-0.png

Feb 27, 2015 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

The Casablanca 88U33M Scandia Ceiling Fan only has three wires, a black, a white, and a green wire (ground). How do you wire the fan and light on seperate switches?


If you want to control both the light and the fan using 3-ways, then just wire 2 sets of the 3-way circuits. For this you need two sets of 3-wire between the switches, and one 3-wire cable from the switch location to the fan/light box.

At box #1 (a 2 gang box), you will run a power cable (marked cable #1) into it. From there you run 2 sets of 3-wire cables (identified as cable #2 & cable #3) to the other switch location, which will also be a 2-gang box (box #2).

Also from box #1, you will run a 3-wire cable (cable #4) to the fan/light box (box #3).

Hook up is as follows:

Box #3: connect black of cable #4 to black (fan), connect red of cable #4 to blue (light), connect white of cable #4 to white (fan/light), and connect the bare to the green.

Box #2: Connect white of cable #2 to identified terminal on 1st 3-way switch (#3). Connect red & black of cable #2 to the remaining screws of 3-way switch #3. Next connect white of cable #3 to identified terminal of 2nd 3-way switch (#4), and connect black and red to remaining screws. Tie all grounds together and terminate to both switches.

At box #1, connect black from cable #1 to whites in cables #2 & #3, using a wirenut. Connect white in cable #1 to white in cable #4. Connect black and red in cable #2 to 3rd 3-way switch (#1) and connect black and red in cable #3 to 4th 3-way switch (#2). Connect black in cable #4 to identified terminal of 3-way switch #1, and connect red in cable #4 to identified terminal on 3-way switch #2. Tie all grounds together and to the switches

Jul 04, 2011 | Casablanca Fan (88U33M) Ceiling

1 Answer

Wiring heater, vent, light with 12/2 and 12/3 from switch to unit. email: lfranklin5@charter.net


I wish we had more information to go on here.

1) You have 2 cables to to the Heat-Vent-Light
One cable is 12-3 and 1 cable is 12-3

2) That's where it's gets fuzzy.
What color wires are on HentVentLight?
Is power at the ceiling box or at the wall box?
What other wires are inside the wall box?
What kind of switch are you installing?

3) With that number of wires, it sounds like power is at ceiling box.
Power would arrive at ceiling box on one cable that has a Hot-black and Neutral-white wire.

4) Start at wall box:
Let's suppose you are installing a wall device that has 3 individual switches, with one switch for each HentVentLight.
The Hot wire from ceiling box would drop down into wall box on a black wire, and this wire connects to brass screw on switch.
Wire going to heater connects to one of the silver screws.
Wire to fan to another silver screw
Wire to light to another silver screw.

5) Work at ceiling box:
Let's suppose your HentVentLight has 4 wires: Black for light, Red for fan, Blue for heater, and White Neutral.
The white neutral connects to Neutral wire as described in #3.
Black, Red and Blue connect to each of the wires that come up from switch.

Add a comment for more free help, and fill in the missing information.

Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Feb 01, 2011 | Broan-NuTone FAN CONTROL SWITCH

1 Answer

I have an ST01 timer that I want to place in a three way circuit that appears to be different than that shown in the directions. My circuit has power (black/white/ground) coming into switch 1 with a three...


One caveat of most In-Wall electronic switches/timers is that the device _must_ be installed at the switch box that has the power, in your case switch #1. In order to install it at switch #2, in your case, you need an extra wire between the switches (to carry the HOT wire), and unfortunately, the bare ground(ing) wire is not permitted to be used to carry current per National Electric Code (NEC).

In your case the wiring for the ST01 is as follows:

Switch box #1: Connect the incoming White wire to the White wire in the 3-wire cable that goes to switch box #2. Connect the incoming (Black) HOT wire to the Black wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Red wire in the 3-wire cable to the Red wire on the switch/timer. Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable to the blue wire on the switch/timer. Connect the green wire on the switch/timer to the 2 bare ground(ing) wires. If you have a metal box this connection should also have a pigtail that connects to the box with a green ground screw.

Switch box #2: Remove all of the existing wires from the 3-way switch. The three-way switch will have 2 screws the same color (usually black) and 1 screw (usually brass). For this scenario, one of the black screws will _not_ be used.

Connect the Black wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1, the Black wire going to the lights, and a short Black pigtail together under one wirenut. The pigtail is then connected to the brass screw on the 3-way switch. The Red wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 is connected to one of the 2 black screws on the 3-way switch (pick one).

In effect you are installing a single switch at switch box #2. In fact, you can use a regular single pole switch if you want too.

To finish, connect the White wire in the 3-wire cable coming from switch #1 to the White wire going to the lights.

Grounding is the same as switch #1 except you'll need a pigtail to connect to the green screw on the 3-way switch.

That's it. You may want to check the battery compartment in the switch/timer, as sometimes they put in a pullout plastic tab to keep it from being energized until needed.

Now, the E1210 is a different animal, and can only be used to replace a single pole switch. You could use it by basically passing the power through to switch box #2 from switch box #1 and then cover switch box #1 with a blank plate. The ST01 could be used that way too, in which case the black on the device connects to the hot, the blue to the lights, and the red on the device is not used, nor will the Red wire in the 3-wire cable between the switch boxes be used.

Sep 11, 2010 | Intermatic EI210 Electronic Auto Shutoff...

1 Answer

I need to wire a 3 gang switches in a 3 gang box


before u start make sure power is off before working with electrical lines ---start with the 12/2 coming into box black [power] white [ground-neutral] and u will have 3 separate lines for the lights so u will have 4 lines total coming in the box== with the 3 light lines take the white and strip back the plastic and connect [wire nut] all 3 to the 12/2 white line --now take the 12/2 black line and connect it to the first switch gold color screw- bottom screw -now take some wire about 2-3 inch strip both ends and connect from the 12/2 black wire connection on the switch and connect to the gold /bottom of switch 2 than do the same for switch 3 connecting the wire from switch 2 so u will have power feeding all 3 switches-- now connect the black lines for the lights to the other side of each switch and ur done

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1 Answer

Emachine t1840 wiring diagram power switch wire to mother board ?


Because there are so many different case and motherboard combinations sometimes it can be difficult following the instructions for connecting the front panel, USB header and audio header.

Below is a few generic guide that should stop some of the confusion with the labels on the wires.

frontpanelsetup.jpg

usbheadersetup.jpg

Front Panel Audio
audiosetup.jpg

***Please note this is a generic wiring guide and we can not guarantee it will work with every motherboard. Please check your motherboard manual first. Wiring the headers wrong can cause damage to the motherboard and case, this damage is not covered by the warranty***

another handy USB wiring guide can be found here http://www.directron.com/installusb.html

this maybe easier to follow

FRONT PANEL AUDIO

2________10
__

1________9

Pin Wire
1) Mic In
2) GND (ground) or if 2xGND available, it’s the GND for the headphones, NOT the Mic
3) Mic BIAS
4) n/c
5) Speaker Right Out
6) Speaker Right Return
7) n/c
8) no pin (n/c)
9) Speaker Left Out
10) Speaker Left Return

n/c = not connected



USB (F_USB1 and also F_USB2)

2________10

 x
1________9

Top row of pins
2 = USB port 2 : VCC/Power/+5V
4 = USB port 2 : Data -/D-
6 = USB port 2 : Data +/D+
8 = USB port 2 : Ground/GND
10 = USB port 2 : pin present, but not connected to anything.

Bottom row of pins
1 = USB port 1 : VCC/Power/+5V
3 = USB port 1 : Data -/D-
5 = USB port 1 : Data +/D+
7 = USB port 1 : Ground/GND
9 = USB port 1 : no pin present

Front Panel Connector (FP1)

1 2
x 




9 10

1 = no pin present
3 & 5 = Power Switch
7 & 9 = Power LED (light)

2 = pin present, but not connected to anything.
4 & 6 = Reset Switch
8 = 10 = Hard Drive LED (light)

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1 Answer

Wiring Door jamb switch


I'm going to guide you on how to create what is known as a "switch leg".
1- run a 12-2 w/ground wire to the light fixture from new switch.
2- connect black wire "hot wire" to the shiny bronze tinted terminal on switch.
3- connect the white wire " neutral " to the silver connection on switch.
4- connect the naked copper wire " ground " to the ground terminal on switch
5- Disconnect the two white wires in the junction box from each other.
6- Connect the ground to ground in j-box
7- Connect the black to one of the whites in j-box
8- connect the white to the other white in j-box
9- wire nut and tape all connections
Oh and be sure that you turn off the breaker before you start. Hope this helps. Good luck.

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2 Answers

Wiring a ceiling fan w/light


To add to red54's comments:

This is what I believe you have:

- one source in the ceiling box (black & white)

- one donwline circuit in ceiling box going to another wall/ceiling box (black&white)

- on switch wire in ceiling box coming from your wall switch (black & white) -- this is the white wire which will be hot when the switch is truned on

Here's how it should be connected:

- all 3 blacks in ceiling box connected together -- no other wires in this bundle

- white wire (which is hot when switched) coming from switch connects to the black/blackwhite fan wires

- connect all reamining white wires together in bundle

- connect all ground wires together

It's that simple. Trick is figuring out, of the three cables in the ceiling box, which is source, which is downline, which is switch.
Maybe red54's procedure can help you figure that out.

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2 Answers

Hampton bay Windward III


Green and copper are the ground wires and I believe you can connect both these to the green wire from the fan (I only have the copper wire in the actual ceiling box). Black and Red can be treated as both black and both can be connected to the black wire from the fan (this is what I did in all my fans and it worked). White is the neutral wire and can be connected to the white wire from the fan (this is what I did in all my fans and it worked).

My ceiling box has the copper, red, black, and white wires. The ceiling plate for the fan I bought had a green wire. I connected the green wire from the ceiling plate and the copper wire from the ceiling box to the green wire from the fan.

Dec 29, 2007 | Hampton Bay 52 In. Black Huntington III...

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