Question about Maytag EPICz Electric Dryer
I have replaced the water inlet unit inside the machine where the 2 hoses connect. That didn't solve issue. If I have hoses on correctly, hot hose on hot inlet and cold hose on cold inlet and choose cold wash, I get F20 after a few minutes of cycle starting. But If I switch the inlets and put hot hose on cold inlet and cold hose on hot inlet, then run a HOT cycle, it washes clothes in cold water all the way through the cycle with no issues at all. Any ideas?
Chris an F-20 is usually a clogged filter on duet washers. Did you go by the tech sheet in your machine? It gives the codes and remedys and is in a jacket behind the kickplate which you remove to get to the filter. You will need a quarter inch nutdriver to gain access.
SERVICE MANUAL is HERE on my manual page
Posted on Dec 07, 2012
Testimonial: "Great work by Dan pointing out issues that aren't in the manual and only known by experience in the field. Thanks again Dan for the help."
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Has air flow problem, check to make sure the vent going to the outside is not blocked. If it isnt, you should be able to take off back cover of dryer. Should be a duct that air goes through, take it apart and make sure there is no lint in bottom of it. I had the same problem and that fixed it.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittleover time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always theelement. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All partsof the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test forcontinuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. Youcan make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight .Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it sothat you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hotwire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! Younow have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the sideof the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.shouldhave continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poorman's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a controlthermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one ofthe wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blockedvent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid theelectric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
HI, This may be the result of a failed inlet assembly. Use my procedure below to inspect for damage.
The water inlet valve can be identified by the water hoses connected to it at the back of the washer. Start by turning off the water supply at the valves on the wall. Disconnect both hoses from the back of the washer. Place the hoses into a bucket and turn them on to confirm that you are getting good water pressure and to clear out any debris from the line.
Inspect the filter screens on both the hoses and the inlet valve for debris build up. If you find any debris, clean it out. Use caution to avoid damaging the filter screens because the screens in the valve are not replaceable.
If debris was not present then proceed to the next step of testing the solenoids. Access to the valve may be easiest by opening the top or the back of the washer, depending upon make and model.
There are two wires connected to each solenoid on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals ( Be sure to not pull the wires). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
Use a continuity tester or multimeter to test for continuity. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first.
If the inlet passes the test, and inspection, this will confirm that the problem is within the main control sector.
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
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