Question about Hoover HDC6 Electric Dryer

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Hoover TCE660 tumble - no heat

I have just had engineer in to fix problem - part of wiring needed replacing at back of machine - when left found that the sensor heating did not work properly ran for 5 minutes then went onto cool - engineer came again - was going to order new sensor which is found near filter backet - however took top off of machine and cleaned all wire connectors etc - seems to be working ok now!!!! However wasnt sure whether heat setting button should be pushed in or out for high heat - cannot find manual and cant remember!! Do you know please - Thanks

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Common faults -
1 The heating elements can fail (meaning open circuit)
2 There are cut-outs (T.O.C's) that might need resetting
3 The thermostats (stats) can trip out or burn out (meaning opencircuit)
4 Moderntumble dryers also have sensors and pcb's (Printed circuitboards) thesehave programs that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an errorcode showing you were the fault is.
5 Faultyconnections and burned wires may also be the fault.



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How do I change the heating element on a hoover vhc 691 b tumble dryer?


Many of the heating elements can be seen and changed by laying the dryer on its back...the element is usually visible from the bottom. I found the part on the link I am incuding for you. Hoover VHC 691B80 Dryer Element 2100W

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Lint is trapped behind door between door and seal and impossible to clear. Any suggestions?


I just stripped down my hoover vision hd 381 model. Its not too bad, and you can get all sorts of lint out. Here's the long version of my post on another site. Your model may be similar to mine:

Fixed: dryer not heating up (Hoover vision hd 381)

Just fixed a hoover vision hd 381 tumble dryer. Thanks to the help on this site and others. Thought I would share my experience here. Problem was tumbledryer not getting hot. Traced it fairly quickly to a blown heating element. Took the back heater cover off (bulging silver panel), unscrewed heater, peered inside and it was somewhat charred (tested the thermostats which were fine). Dryer works now.

The really tricky thing was unplugging the heating element to replace it. The plugs are located inside the main housing.

However, the advice found on much of the internet to how to do this is incorrect. In particular the advice to remove the drum is not correct.

The way you access the plugs is by pulling the main heating wire through the hole in the unit, and feeding the plugs through one by one.

Then you can simply unplug the old one, plug in the new one.

Two things are necessary for this:
i) Remove the rubber collar keeping the main wire secure in the hole into the main unit.
ii) Pushing the plastic grommet through the small hole in the main unit. This grommet immobilises the main wire - you won't feed it through without it being released. You'll see quickly what this looks like on the replacement heater you should already have. The white plastic grommet protrudes a little out of the back of the unit close to where the heating wire enters the unit. Pinch it with a pair of pliers and push it back into the unit. The wire will then be free to pull through, and one plug at a time will fit through till you have all four. Then just pull the plugs off (pushing the new ones on requires quite alot of force).

In fact it is not necessary to strip down the unit at all to do this, apart from one thing: putting the grommet back for the new heater. It needs to be pushed from the inside. This probably isn't strictly necessary (I say probably), but I did it anyway. I suspect the grommet is there so that if the heater hangs free, it doesn't pull the wire up and stress the plugs. But I wanted to put the thing back exactly like I found it.

However, you still don't need to take the drum out to do this. You do however need to take the plastic mounting off that supports the drum. Then you can reach in with your hand and manouver the grommet into place.

So the repair ideally should be firstly to replace the heater in the way described above. Then put the cover back on as you'll need the unit on its back later.

Briefly, instructions for stripping down the unit:
i) Unscrew the 3 top screws located on the back of the unit holding the top of the unit on. Slide the top back and lift it off.
ii) Disconnect the door by undoing the allen key screws. Once these are off, lift the door off.

iii) Unscrew the plastic faceplate from the top (2 screws), to reveal two of 8 screws holding the metal front in place. I wired the plastic faceplate (with control knobs) onto the unit so I could still access these 2 screws, without the faceplate hanging free and risking disconnecting something.

iv) Unscrew the remaining 6 screws (4 near the rubber seal, 2 at the very bottom). Remove the rubber seal carefully.

v) Lift the metal front off, and disconnect the wires (keep track of which goes where!) Place the machine on its back (support it with blocks where the bulging heating element is).

vi) Unscrew the four nuts holding the plastic mounting which supports the drum.

vii) Slide the plastic mounting up by about 10mm and hinge it out from the bottom. This lifts the felt seal off the drum. The machine needs to be on its back so the drum which is now only held on to the back plate doesn't stress itself under its own weight. Make sure you know where the wires need to be fed. I took videos and pictures on my phone at each step.

viii) It should now be possible to reach in past the drum and click the grommet back in place.

cheers

Mat
(matskm@gmail.com if anyone wants to ask questions).

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2 Answers

Tumble Dryer intermittent squeal, then stopped heating, now black soot underneath


Dryers are susceptible to lint fires in their exhaust vents. You should be checking the exhaust vent at least once a year and clearing any blockages. If the exhaust vent becomes blocked, the dryer will heat up significantly and the lint could catch fire if there is enough heat build-up. If you don't clear the exhaust this will almost certainly happen.


Fire needs a source of heat (red hot heating elements), fuel (lint) and oxygen (the exhaust fan blows air at the blockage).


You should be able to replace the burned out heating element if you are comfortable doing the wiring. You can pay a repairman if you like but wiring is only so much common sense. Photograph the wiring before you start for a post repair check. Replace the element and any burned wires. Make sure the connections are tight and that there are no loose wires. Only the ground wire should be bare.

A Dryer uses 220V AC (in North America) like a stove and some water heaters. This is enough voltage to kill even hardy souls who laugh at 110V (usually enough to kill but not guaranteed to).

When you check the vent, check that it has some sort of safety rating. Not all flexible vent is fire-resistant. This scared me when I saw it on YouTube or somewhere.

Why did your smoke detector not go off when the element melted?Good thing to know if your utility charges less for power in off-peak hours. My mother often runs hers at night when the rate is very low.

My dryer runs from sunrise to sunset but we use an electric one in the winter months.

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1 Answer

My hoover tumbledryer condenser vhc381 wont work when it is switched on there is a humming noise,the filter care light is also flashing,ive emptyed the water,hoovered it right through the vents and...


Fixed: dryer not heating up (Hoover vision hd 381)

Just fixed a hoover vision hd 381 tumble dryer. Thanks to the help on this site and others. Thought I would share my experience here. Problem was tumbledryer not getting hot. Traced it fairly quickly to a blown heating element. Took the back heater cover off (bulging silver panel), unscrewed heater, peered inside and it was somewhat charred (tested the thermostats which were fine). Dryer works now.

The really tricky thing was unplugging the heating element to replace it. The plugs are located inside the main housing.

However, the advice found on much of the internet to how to do this is incorrect. In particular the advice to remove the drum is not correct.

The way you access the plugs is by pulling the main heating wire through the hole in the unit, and feeding the plugs through one by one.

Then you can simply unplug the old one, plug in the new one.

Two things are necessary for this:
i) Remove the rubber collar keeping the main wire secure in the hole into the main unit.
ii) Pushing the plastic grommet through the small hole in the main unit. This grommet immobilises the main wire - you won't feed it through without it being released. You'll see quickly what this looks like on the replacement heater you should already have. The white plastic grommet protrudes a little out of the back of the unit close to where the heating wire enters the unit. Pinch it with a pair of pliers and push it back into the unit. The wire will then be free to pull through, and one plug at a time will fit through till you have all four. Then just pull the plugs off (pushing the new ones on requires quite alot of force).

In fact it is not necessary to strip down the unit at all to do this, apart from one thing: putting the grommet back for the new heater. It needs to be pushed from the inside. This probably isn't strictly necessary (I say probably), but I did it anyway. I suspect the grommet is there so that if the heater hangs free, it doesn't pull the wire up and stress the plugs. But I wanted to put the thing back exactly like I found it.

However, you still don't need to take the drum out to do this. You do however need to take the plastic mounting off that supports the drum. Then you can reach in with your hand and manouver the grommet into place.

So the repair ideally should be firstly to replace the heater in the way described above. Then put the cover back on as you'll need the unit on its back later.

Briefly, instructions for stripping down the unit:
i) Unscrew the 3 top screws located on the back of the unit holding the top of the unit on. Slide the top back and lift it off.

ii) Disconnect the door by undoing the allen key screws. Once these are off, lift the door off.

iii) Unscrew the plastic faceplate from the top (2 screws), to reveal two of 8 screws holding the metal front in place. I wired the plastic faceplate (with control knobs) onto the unit so I could still access these 2 screws, without the faceplate hanging free and risking disconnecting something.

iv) Unscrew the remaining 6 screws (4 near the rubber seal, 2 at the very bottom). Remove the rubber seal carefully.

v) Lift the metal front off, and disconnect the wires (keep track of which goes where!) Place the machine on its back (support it with blocks where the bulging heating element is).

vi) Unscrew the four nuts holding the plastic mounting which supports the drum.

vii) Slide the plastic mounting up by about 10mm and hinge it out from the bottom. This lifts the felt seal off the drum. The machine needs to be on its back so the drum which is now only held on to the back plate doesn't stress itself under its own weight. Make sure you know where the wires need to be fed. I took videos and pictures on my phone at each step.

viii) It should now be possible to reach in past the drum and click the grommet back in place.

cheers

Mat
(matskm@gmail.com if anyone wants to ask questions).

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1 Answer

How to work the hoover vision hd vhv 381 tumble dryer?


This may not be exactly what you want, but is useful information for anyone wanting to work on their hoover dryer, vision hd vhc 381 dryer.

Fixed: dryer not heating up (Hoover vision hd 381)

Just fixed a hoover vision hd 381 tumble dryer. Thanks to the help on this site and others. Thought I would share my experience here. Problem was tumbledryer not getting hot. Traced it fairly quickly to a blown heating element. Took the back heater cover off (bulging silver panel), unscrewed heater, peered inside and it was somewhat charred (tested the thermostats which were fine). Dryer works now.

The really tricky thing was unplugging the heating element to replace it. The plugs are located inside the main housing.

However, the advice found on much of the internet to how to do this is incorrect. In particular the advice to remove the drum is not correct.

The way you access the plugs is by pulling the main heating wire through the hole in the unit, and feeding the plugs through one by one.

Then you can simply unplug the old one, plug in the new one.

Two things are necessary for this:
i) Remove the rubber collar keeping the main wire secure in the hole into the main unit.
ii) Pushing the plastic grommet through the small hole in the main unit. This grommet immobilises the main wire - you won't feed it through without it being released. You'll see quickly what this looks like on the replacement heater you should already have. The white plastic grommet protrudes a little out of the back of the unit close to where the heating wire enters the unit. Pinch it with a pair of pliers and push it back into the unit. The wire will then be free to pull through, and one plug at a time will fit through till you have all four. Then just pull the plugs off (pushing the new ones on requires quite alot of force).

In fact it is not necessary to strip down the unit at all to do this, apart from one thing: putting the grommet back for the new heater. It needs to be pushed from the inside. This probably isn't strictly necessary (I say probably), but I did it anyway. I suspect the grommet is there so that if the heater hangs free, it doesn't pull the wire up and stress the plugs. But I wanted to put the thing back exactly like I found it.

However, you still don't need to take the drum out to do this. You do however need to take the plastic mounting off that supports the drum. Then you can reach in with your hand and manouver the grommet into place.

So the repair ideally should be firstly to replace the heater in the way described above. Then put the cover back on as you'll need the unit on its back later.

Briefly, instructions for stripping down the unit:
i) Unscrew the 3 top screws located on the back of the unit holding the top of the unit on. Slide the top back and lift it off.
ii) Disconnect the door by undoing the allen key screws. Once these are off, lift the door off.

iii) Unscrew the plastic faceplate from the top (2 screws), to reveal two of 8 screws holding the metal front in place. I wired the plastic faceplate (with control knobs) onto the unit so I could still access these 2 screws, without the faceplate hanging free and risking disconnecting something.

iv) Unscrew the remaining 6 screws (4 near the rubber seal, 2 at the very bottom). Remove the rubber seal carefully.

v) Lift the metal front off, and disconnect the wires (keep track of which goes where!) Place the machine on its back (support it with blocks where the bulging heating element is).

vi) Unscrew the four nuts holding the plastic mounting which supports the drum.

vii) Slide the plastic mounting up by about 10mm and hinge it out from the bottom. This lifts the felt seal off the drum. The machine needs to be on its back so the drum which is now only held on to the back plate doesn't stress itself under its own weight. Make sure you know where the wires need to be fed. I took videos and pictures on my phone at each step.

viii) It should now be possible to reach in past the drum and click the grommet back in place.

cheers

Mat
(matskm@gmail.com if anyone wants to ask questions).

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1 Answer

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Tumble dryers will often have thermostats fitted. A heater control one, and an exhaust thermostat. The first keeps the temperature correct. The second, as its name suggests, monitors the temperature of the exhaust (in case the airflow in the machine is impeded) Once again, replacement is not too much of a problem.

http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Troubleshooting
Please look, at the link above, it will show you how to perform troubleshooting. procedures and repair.
If you feel you don't want to do it yourself, please call a Hoover Tech, and get it looked at. Ask for a "Quote" for the repair, so you get an idea of whats what.

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A good Start to clear it up is "repair clinic.com" Sounds like a heating element. Repair Guru will let you know if it is a real problem to fix.

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