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Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

Freezer won't defrost (by 5 users)


posted by savey73 on Jun 10, 2007


Main board, heater and thermostat have been replaced. Both doors have been replaced as a recall. Unit does not go into defrost when light switch is tripped 5 times. Old heater that was taken out lit up when 120 vac was applied. New and old thermostat check closed at room temperature. Have defrosted unit once per week for last 6 weeks via hair dryer. Seems like defrost timer but have been assured that the main board controls this. Same symtoms a year ago and new board fixed problem. Model is 6 year old Hotpoint HSS25IFMB WW Home Depot special.

Comment by savey73, posted on Nov 29, 2007

I have fixed the deforst problem by turning down the temperature control dial for the freezer found in the refrigerator compartment. I realize now I started having the no-defrost problem after I had turned the temperature up several months before. The freezer is on #3 and the refrigerator is on #4.
I have the same problem.
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4 Other Users Have The Same Problem

Comment by Guest, posted on Dec 14, 2007

Frost Free Fridge has iced up behind and in front of the rear panel in the freezer compartment/ The fridge has been turned off....the ice has thawed alittle and could be removed but the grill behind th white panel is still very icy...after 6 hours. Hair dryer used to melt what was accessible. This has happened a number of times....Can it be salvaged..or do I need a new fridge?

Comment by OtisBane, posted on Nov 06, 2007

I jumped the line and defrost and the heater came on no problem, what woudl be broken that would keep the cycle from happening by itself?
otis

Comment by OtisBane, posted on Nov 06, 2007

so I tried the steps you described and got 0 ohms when connecting the blue wire and the orange wire, so I checked the freezer thermistor with ~22 ohms and the evaporator thermistor ~5 ohms with the assumption that the coils are already frozen up. I know the defrost safety thermostat is fine. The evaporator fan seems to be running everytime I am near the fridge. I should mention that every time I remove the back panel to defrost the coils, the lower section of the coils, although by design are more spaced out, are usually free of a thick layer of ice, and only the upper 2/3rds of the coils are iced over.

Comment by OtisBane, posted on Nov 06, 2007

my problem is similar, with a hss22fimc, (different, but similar enough) but i have replaced the defrost thermostat, the one that clips to the top of the coils. I tested the one that I removed, and it gave complete conductance when at room temperature, no conductance at >140F and then conductance again after submersing the sensor in a cup of ice. So, I assume that the the defrost thermostat was working fine, and that the one I put in is also functional. how do I test the thermistors? and what else might be the issue to check.

Thanks
otisbane

Best Solution

posted on Jun 10, 2007
FixYa! (100)

catriver

Rank:Guru Guru
Rating: 94%, 2654 votes
Savey, this is for the HSS model. The unit will not go into defrost by pressing the light switch 5 times. It is not programmed to do this. The defrost is controlled by length of time the doors were open since the last defrost. Length of time the compressor has run since the last defrost and the amount of time the defrost heaters were on during the last defrost cycle. Unplug the refer, on the main board unplug the blue connector. Measure the resistance between the blue wire on the connector and the nuetral orange wire on main board J7, pin 9. It should read approx 22 ohms. If it doesn't, check the heaters and the defrost safety thermostat. The defrost safety themostat is a back up to the evaportator thermistor. If that checks ok, verify that the evaporator thermistor and freezer thermistor is in proper range. At 15 degrees, they should ohm at approx 27K ohms. The higher the temp, the lower the resistance. If that checks ok, then you have a board problem. You can send 120V to the heaters by jumping Line to defrost on the 3 pronged blue harness. See if the heaters come on. Catriver.
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Solution #2

posted on Nov 24, 2007
FixYa! (100)

supertechks

Rank:Wiz Wiz
Rating: 92%, 53 votes
savey73,
I think I know what is wrong. First the defrost thermostat you are talking about I believe is the round metal type with possibly a pink and an orange wire coming out of it. That is not the defrost thermostat as most people know it. That is a defrost overheat termination thermostat that opens only over 140 degrees F, that is why your old good one and your new good one show closed at room temp. If you read on the outside of the metal cover you will find it has a L140 indicating the limit of 140 deg.
Now to what should be causing your problem. You should find on the evaporator coil at the top left side of the evaporator coil a part that has 2 white wires going into what looks like about a 1" long X 1/4" round plastic thing. That little white plastic thing is a THERMISTOR. If it is bad your defrost will not work. Sounds like that is the only thing you have not replaced. There is no polarization of the wires That should FixYa
supertechks

Comment by supertechks, posted on Nov 24, 2007

OOPS I ANSWERED TO WRONG POST
supertechks

Comment by supertechks, posted on Nov 29, 2007

savey73 Thank you for your response and I will keep the information you just provided in mind. I am surprised that turning the temp too cold could cause a defrost problem like you had. Ofton improper settings can cause problem but I have never seen it like this problem. For some reason I still think you may have a bad thermistor. If you find you need help in the future just add to this post and If I still am getting alerts from fixya I will try to respond and help you any way I am able. Merry Christmas, supertechks
I may be slow but I am trying. Please rate what you feel it is worth, Thanks!
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Solution #3

posted on Apr 05, 2008
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Guest

Rank:Apprentice Apprentice
Rating: 0%, 0 votes
WHERE CAN I FIND THE THERMOSTAT DEFORT ON A WHIRLPOOL?
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