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BLOWER RUNS CONSTANTLY ON CARRIER 48XP036 HEAT AND COOL WORK

DO NOT HAVE 24 VOLTS BETWEEN COMMON AND GREEN , BLOWER RUNS CONSTANTLY EVEN WITH THERMOSTAT IS TURNED OFF .

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Carrier XHD183D Through-the-Wall Heater/AC runs constantly

YOU COULD EITHER HAVE A THERMOSTAT PROBLEM OR FAN CONTROL PROBLEM.TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE FURNACE AND TAKE THE THERMOSTAT OFF THE WALL.MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE WIRES SO YOU KNOW HOW TO HOOK IT BACK UP AGAIN.RESTORE POWER TO THE FURNACE.TOUCH THE WIRES THAT WERE HOOKED TO THE R & G TERMINALS ON THE T-STAT TOGETHER AND HOLD THEM THERE.OBSERVE THE OPERATION. WHEN YOU TAKE THEM APART DOES THE BLOWER STOP?TRY IT A FEW TIMES. IF IT CONTINUES TO START AND STOP YOU GOT A BAD T-STAT.JEFF

Posted on Dec 15, 2007

wbwill
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: Carrier Weathermaker SX model 58SX060-CC Blower runs all the time

Remove all power from the furnace, it is likely the brain in the furnace is need of being reset, from the battery replacement, why did you change the battery, was there an indicator telling you to change it?

Many times just removing all the power to the furnace will do the trick with a reset, if not let me know and we will go from there, but it sounds like the main brain is confused or bad, more likely confused, so try the power removed first.

Than let me know wbwill@sbcglobal.net

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: How to test for 24 vac between R and C

Yes you are right the control voltage of your furnace is 24 volts. Really without a load on the transformer usually runs 28 volts then you put a load on it and it drops down to 24-26 volts. Check the voltage between the R terminal and the W terminal with the selector switch in heat mode. Or move the thermostat switch to heat. R to C would do it also. You could also do the voltage check right at the transformer one side of the transformer is 120 volts and the other side is 24. Look for the black and white wires that is the 120 volt side the blue and yellow or off colors is the secondary side.

Now if it checks low say 24 or 22 your gas valve needs min. 24 volts to hold open the valve that allows the gas to flow into the burners. So if one of the symptoms is related to burners come on for about 3 to 5 min. then shut down and the fan keeps going it is loosing the necessary voltage to hold open the gas valve.

One more thing make sure the air filter is clean as this will cause the heat to build up in the heat exchanger and hit the high limit safety device and cut the gas off. Until the air cools enough to allow the high limit to reset then the gas valve will open and start the process all over again. Dirty A-Coil will do the same thing as the air goes through the coil to get to house. let me know how it goes ken

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

philbran
  • 242 Answers

SOURCE: Furnace runs constantly since blower motor was replaced

Sounds like they wired it direct to line voltage , it should run through a sequencer or fan relay to cycle on and off , your seq./relay could be stuck closed to but unlikely being it was just repaired , call the service company back before you do anything they are responsible.

Posted on Apr 11, 2009

t1m130
  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: Blown Transformer heat pump

blown transformers are usually from a low voltage short the first thing i would do is wire a automotive or resetable 3amp fuse in line with the transformer so you dont blow transformer after transformer the wire coming off the transformer that say 24v take that wire a couple of inches down and cut it and install the fuse in series there
24v----------------
24v----------x----------
24v--------{3ampfuse}----------

now you can go through your low voltage wires one by one and test them unhook all the wires to your outdoor condenser at your indoor unit(furnace or airhandler) and try turning it to cool now if you blow the fuse the short is between the tstat and the indoor unit if the fuse is still good leave it on cool and hook up one wire at a time to your outdoor unit starting with R a lot of times your contactor or your defrost board will short out on you also look for pinches in wires wires with cracks in the insulation and wires touching metal this situation can be a real pain sometimes i would recommend calling a hvac company if you start to get stumped
hope this will help you

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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I don't have a C cable for power to my new thermostat. What do I do?


Using a multimeter and reading for 24 volts will not provide the "common" leg of the 24 volt control power provided by your transformer, the other circuits besides RED, red being where the 24 volt "hot leg" enters the thermostat, the remaining circuits, heat or cool or fan will also read 24 volts to Red since it will read Common through the back door so to speak, the new NEST thermostats claim to need no Common leg for this reason however it will not work with every situation as far as the NEST goes. The only way to definitively know you have the Common leg of the 24 volt control power is go to the air handler and see what is on the C or Common terminal, Colors as stated as confusing and are only there to decipher the circuit as in cool or fan or heat etc. Common is akin to the NEG on a car battery, it is the side of power every 24 volt circuit terminates upon to complete its circuit, thus the common name. dont-c-cable-power-new-thermostat-cp4yufdp500qfugpjpa1ch44-1-0.png

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Hello, try jumping the r and g terminals on the tstat subbase, if this turns on the blower motor then you have a bad tstat. If not then chevk for 24 volts between r and c, if you have 24 volts there then the relay on the control board is bad and the board must be replaced. Does the blower run when set to heat?

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Wiring diagram for Thermoking V700MAX


Red or R is the "Hot leg" of the Transformers 24volt supply,
Common or C is the "Neutral leg" of the Transformers 24 volt supply;
and the side of power to which ALL the 24 volt control circuits
terminate to complete the circuit, example; Heat=W, Cool=Y, Fan=G.
Upon a call for heat a switch closes betwen the Red and White Thermostat terminals.
The stat sends the 24 volts to White or W for the heat circuit on W on the
furnaces LVTB low voltage terminal board.
Yellow or Y goes from Thermostat to furnace Y on LVTB, which is simply
a connecting point on its way to the AC units 24v contactor coil located outdoors.
It actually isnt even attached to the furnace many times as it serves no purpose there and simply
continues to the AC unit with the copper lineset that the AC unit feeds.
The remaing 24 volt Thermostat wire goes back to common on transformer to complete the Yellow
24 volt control circuit.
Green or G exits the Thermostat and connects to G on LVTB for the fan relays 24volt coil
and returns to Common to complete the Green 24 volt control circuit.
O is for a Heat pump reversing valves 24 volt solenoid, and return to Common as all 24v circuits must to terminate or complete the circuit.
Some parasitic type Termostats need the 24v power to run, some are battery, some are both.

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On the old thermostat how many and what terminals did you have?
Usually
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
RH = Usually jumpered to R or RC
C = Common the other side of the 24 volt transformer opposite the R
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
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Y or yellow and G or green are connected in the "auto" setting, as G is fan and Y is cool, the Y and G wires are somehow, energizing the Y wire that goes to the AC unit to run cool, take thermostat off exposing the thermostats sub base Y and G will be there along with R, red, 24volt ("hot leg" of 24 v power) W white= heat, and C common, 24 volt ("neutral leg" or "common" leg of 24 power) common is where all the various 24 volt circuits (cool, heat, fan,) terminate or return to complete the circuit, just as a AA battery nas a positive and negative side of power, so does the furnace and all electrical circuits, its common as all circuits terminate there , its the opposite side of power fro whish all circuits begin, red is the :hot leg" and enters on RED red to WHITE=HEAT

RED to YELLOW=COOL
RED to GREEN= FAN

auto =Y & G connected
on= R & G connected

if you jump red to green, which is fan on, no connection should exist to yellow in on ! only auto!

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4 Wire Termostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
with one transformer for both units
Rc One Side of 24 volt Transformer
Rh Jumper Rc to Rh
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
With 2 transformers one for indoor unit
And one for outdoor unit
Rc = Red One Side of (outside) 24 volt (outside transformer)
G = Green Blower (outside transformer)
Y = Yellow Cool (outside transformer)
Rh = Blue One side of (inside) 24 volt (inside transformer)
W = White Heat (inside transformer)
COOLING ONLY Thermostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
HEATING ONLY
R or Rh One Side of 24 volt Transformer
W = White Heat

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1 Answer

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What are you trying to wire up?
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4 Wire Termostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
with one transformer for both units
Rc One Side of 24 volt Transformer
Rh Jumper Rc to Rh
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With 2 transformers one for indoor unit
And one for outdoor unit
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G = Green Blower (outside transformer)
Y = Yellow Cool (outside transformer)
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W = White Heat (inside transformer)
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4 Wire Termostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
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W = White Heat (inside transformer)
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4 Wire Termostat
R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
5 Wire Thermostat
with one transformer for both units
Rc One Side of 24 volt Transformer
Rh Jumper Rc to Rh
G = Green Blower
Y = Yellow Cool
W = White Heat
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With 2 transformers one for indoor unit
And one for outdoor unit
Rc = Red One Side of (outside) 24 volt (outside transformer)
G = Green Blower (outside transformer)
Y = Yellow Cool (outside transformer)
Rh = Blue One side of (inside) 24 volt (inside transformer)
W = White Heat (inside transformer)
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R = Red One Side of 24 volt Transformer
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MY BLOWER WAS REPLACED IN THE SUMMER BUT IT NEVER TURNED OFF UNLESS WE SHUT IT OFF AT THE SWITCH. NOW I SWITCHED THE TSTAT TO HEAT AND THE INDUCER FAN TURNS ON WITH THE BLOWER BUT NOTHING EKSE TURNS ON. NO...


be sure the fan setting on the stat is set for auto, not on. in this mode the fan should only run when there is a call for cool or heat.if the fan continues to run check at the control board to see if you are getting 24 volts low voltage between green and common. if you are then the stat is bad. if youaren't then your electric control board is possibly bad. a lot of gas furnaces fall into a failsafe mode when a sensor or function fails and the blowers stay on 24 7. you may well have several problems from what you are saying. if you turn everthing off and start a new cycle for heat the first thing that should fire up is the induced draft motor , then the ignotor, then the gas valve. you can check each item with a meter , generally 120 volts to the induced draft motor, then 120 volts to the ignitior, the 24 volts to the gas valve. then ignition and 120 volts to the motor. most furnaces have a heat terminal and a cool terminal on the board. common to heat should get 120 volts on a call for heat after the sequence of operationb has taken place. 120 volts should be sent to cool terminal on a call for cool. a continueous blower is a sign of a failed safety. perhaps the motor failed and the safety opened and the motor was replaced but the safety never reset?. look at all the little micro temp sensors around the burner. they are like little breakers and need to be pushed in to reset . usually like a little stem that pops out from a metal or plastic dic. some are size of a quarter, some the size of a dime.

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