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Whirlpool WGP 54800 - Element does not shut off when desired temp is reached. Is this a simple fix? - a relay or somesuch?

Display beeps when display says that desired temp is reached but the element does not cycle or shut off.

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  • Kitchen Ranges Master
  • 9,472 Answers

What is the complete model number of the unit?

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

  • 3 more comments 
  • Wayne Hewitt Dec 07, 2012

    per the tag, WGP 54800 Type 30P serial IMH4391971 I have done a bit more experimenting and suspect that the real problem is that the holding shut-off tempo is very much higher than the display. Temp set to 200 is measured at 220 in oven. Set at 300, measures at 370. When we had it set at 350 it did not reach whatever it thought it wanted so I saw it as a 'not shutting off' rather than as a limit issue. Am going to clean the probe in case it has a coating on it.

  • Wayne Hewitt Dec 07, 2012

    The control is cycling the element off and on at the lower temps. Is it likely it is just the probe itself?

  • Wayne Hewitt Dec 07, 2012

    Whirlpool Accubake System

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 07, 2012

    Pull the probe out and at room temperature it should read around 1100 Ohms. Post back the results.

  • Wayne Hewitt Dec 08, 2012

    Probe was cleaned. Left probe in place. 1070 ohms at 71f, 1340 ohms at 230f (set at 200f)

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SOURCE: Kenmore gas range beeps and displays code E1-F2

I'm not sure if the error codes are the same for gas ranges as they are for electric, but this is the solution for that same error code with the electric version. you might give it a try with yours and see if it works the same for gas as well (I would assume the electronics are similar between the two).
you probably don't need to replace any parts to solve this problem. E1 -F2- = the keytail (connector ribbon) that plugs into the control board is not making good contact. first unplug your range and then remove the two screws on the underside of the back-splash controls panel to access the back of the control board. now simply cut a slip of heavy paper such as a business card to the width of the ribbon and slide it into the slot along with the ribbon connector. that will help press the contacts on the other side together snuggly. screw the back-splash back in place, plug in your range, and the problem might vanish. if the error code returns, try pulling out the connector, cleaning the contacts with a pencil eraser, reinserting it into the slot and repeat above with the paper.
the paper trick worked for me for about two weeks, then the problem happened again. the next fix I tried was to unplug the keytail (the ribbon connector) from the slot on the control panel. there is a clip in each side of the black plastic receptacle (the place where the keytail plugs in on the electronics control board). pres them inward to separate the top portion of the receptacle, which I think helps to clamp the keytail into the bottom portion. the top and bottom fit tightly together, so you might need to use a small screwdriver at the joint to pry them apart, however, I did not find it necessary to remove that clamp in order to remove or replace the keytail on mine.
smoke and other sticky cooking fumes cling to the contact wires on the keytail and the pins in the receptacle (as well as other surfaces) and that buildup interferes with the electrical connection they need to make. once the keytail is free, clean it well with a mild cleanser (I used a slightly soapy, damp dish sponge) and dry it with a clean paper towel. FYI, one side of the keytail has the exposed wires which make contact with pins in the receptacle on the control board. the exposed side is on the inside surface of the curled keytail ribbon, the outside surface is translucent plastic insulation (you can feel that the outside is smoother than the inside because the inside has the contact wires exposed). the inside is the side you want to make sure is clean because those are the wires that need to make electrical contact with the pins in the receptacle.
next, use sharp scissors to carefully trim a small uniform strip (roughly 1/16 of an inch or less) off the end of the keytail. then plug it in again (remembering to use the top portion of the receptacle to secure it in if you had removed it). doing this provides a fresh spot on the exposed wires to make contact with the pins in the receptacle. my theory is that over time the wires wear out at the points where they make contact with the pins. trimming the edge allows you to insert the keytail deeper into the receptacle and therefore, the pins will contact the wires in the keytail at a new, unworn spot. it's been over a week now and so far, it seems to have fixed the problem on my stove. if I get the error message again in the future, my next step will be to try paper trick again (at least as a temporary solution), but I doubt it will be necessary any time soon.
be sure to try all other solutions first before ordering any parts. I first changed the control board for $125 and there was no change. then I ordered the touchpad, but ended up fixing the problem before it arrived. I sent the touchpad part back to Sears Parts Direct after I figured out I didn't need it and they eventually refunded $15 less than I'd paid. of that difference, $13 and change was for shipping, so the other dollar plus must have been a miscalculation or a restocking charge or something, but I didn't bother following up to find out. I also had to pay about $3 to ship it back to them via USPS because I didn't hear the UPS guy when he dropped it off on the doorstep, so I wasn't able to simply refuse the delivery.
good luck with your repair.

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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