Question about Midland 4001 40-Channels Base CB Radio

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Lazy signal needle

I need to know which pot controls th signal meter so i can adjust itplz

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Probably NOT the potentiometer that assists the meter. I would suspect a abad needle in the meter. I'd see if you can get to the adjuster screw on the meters front. Many times it's hard or impossible to adjust due to the way it's mounted.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

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Jul 26, 2012 Yup you got a code seven failure code, speed pot malfunction . What pots typically do is that they oxidise. This pot is a variable rersistor that opeates between 0 - 30k ohms. When tuning the pot it shoud ram up and down smoothly. To test for this
You may also need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8
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1 Answer

What makes a speed pot go bad on a celebrity x 3 wheel scooter?


Yup you got a code seven failure code, speed pot malfunction . What pots typically do is that they oxidise. This pot is a variable rersistor that opeates between 0 - 30k ohms. When tuning the pot it shoud ram up and down smoothly. To test for this
You may also need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8
Disconnect batteries from the scooter. Simply attach the multimeter to the pots terminals, select correct ohms scale and watch the needle. Th needle when turning the pot should move gracefully up to 30k down to zero as the pot dial scooter speed increases. Failure is detected when the needle jumps around, the oxidation causes the pot to connect inteermitently. USE CRC CONTACT Cleaner to get the oxidation out of the pot. The potss are not sealed so there are little holes you can spray into. Use liberal of cleanner.

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1 Answer

What makes the speed pot go bad on a 3 wheel celebrity x scooter


Yup you gt a code seven failure code, speed pot malfunction . What pots typically do is that they oxidise. This pt is aa variable rersistor that opeates between 0 - 30k ohms. When tuning the pot it shoud ram up and down smoothly. To test for this
You may also need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8
Disconnect batteries from the scooter. Simply attach the multimeter to the pots terminals, select correct ohms scale and watch the needle. Th needle when turning the pot should movee gracefully up to 30k down to zero as the pot dial scooter speed increases. Faaailure is detected when the needle jumps around, the oxidation causes the pot to connect inteermitently. USE CRC CONTACT Cleaner to get the oxidation out of the pot. The potss are not sealed so there are little holes you can spray into. Use liberal of cleanner.

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1 Answer

Scooter will not move & the troubleshooting light does not work.


First with this kind of problem the easiest thing to do is to pull the trans-axle from the scooter and take it to a motor shop for testing. If it needs anything they will find it. Anyway you will have a known good unit. Next its best to check the engager in the tiller. To test the engager you will need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8

Testing
1 Remove any covers in order to expose engager lever assembly.

2 Check the resistance of the two outside terminals of the engager potentiometer with the multimeter, the reading should be 2.5kohm +/- 200 ohm

3 Slowly squeeze the lever, the needle on the meter should slowly and smoothly drop to zero. Do this same test for the reverse side too. If the meter doesn't move smoothly clean the pot, if the pot is out of spec replace.

To test the controller get both drive wheels off the floor. Make sure the speed pot which is also located in the tiller and is a separate pot from the engager. is set to zero ohms. At the controller output to the motor use the meter to take the DC Voltage measurement. Pull the engager lever to full forward. The meter should ramp up close to 24volts. It won't do this in reverse. If it fails to reach 24 volt use the meter to do continuity checks of the wiring from the speed pot and engager to the controller there should be zero ohms on these connections. Its not difficult to chase wires. What goes into a cable harness comes out somewhere! To do a continuity test you set the meter to the highest ohm scale. Short the test leads together, the needle should deflect. Calibrate the meter to zero by using the zeroing knob or adjustment. Now take a test lead go to the speed pot, place the test lead on to the pot terminal. Trace the wire hooked to the speed pot terminal to its connector plug. Take a measurement from the output side of the connector, not from where the wire goes inti the connector this way we test the connection too. If you get resistance pull the connector apart put it together again\retest, All the stuff in the tiller run into some sort of cable that either plugs directly into the controller if your lucky. If your not lucky and i wasn't the cable runs into the main harness [ the rats nest]. Here you must use s little logic. The lines we are looking at are control lines generally speaking really slender usually around 22 awg. Power lines are way fatter usually 12 to 14 awg. So you right off know that if you got a 22awg wire input you will have the same output. The controllers connector blocks are arranged by function. You can bet
connector blocks with 12 awg wires are for power skip them you normally don't have to look at those blocks. The controller line blocks are usually smaller. Leaving the test probe at the speed pot terminal use the other probe to check out the wires going into the controller one of them will show continuity... Simply unplug the block connector, WARNING look for lock-down devices. touch the pin with the probe.. Make a pin-out chart by labeling the controller blocks A threw whatever. Every connector gets a letter. every letter gets a column on paper . Every wire gets a title [ what does this wire do] which is listed at the far left make rows to the right of the tittles. So if the signal your chasing starts at pin 1 connector A and ends at pin 6 at connector C, you can easily list under wire title. By this method i've got a full pin-out of my scooter. Hope this helps

Jul 17, 2012 | Health & Beauty

1 Answer

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First with this kind of problem the easiest thing to do is to pull the trans-axle from the scooter and take it to a motor shop for testing. If it needs anything they will find it. Anyway you will have a known good unit. Next its best to check the engager in the tiller. To test the engager you will need a VOM meter only $9
http://www.amazon.com/Mastech-YG188-Pocket-size-analog-multimeter/dp/B00064CH6A/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1339024102&sr=1-8

Testing
1 Remove any covers in order to expose engager lever assembly.

2 Check the resistance of the two outside terminals of the engager potentiometer with the multimeter, the reading should be 2.5kohm +/- 200 ohm

3 Slowly squeeze the lever, the needle on the meter should slowly and smoothly drop to zero. Do this same test for the reverse side too. If the meter doesn't move smoothly clean the pot, if the pot is out of spec replace.

To test the controller get both drive wheels off the floor. Make sure the speed pot which is also located in the tiller and is a separate pot from the engager. is set to zero ohms. At the controller output to the motor use the meter to take the DC Voltage measurement. Pull the engager lever to full forward. The meter should ramp up close to 24volts. It won't do this in reverse. If it fails to reach 24 volt use the meter to do continuity checks of the wiring from the speed pot and engager to the controller there should be zero ohms on these connections. Its not difficult to chase wires. What goes into a cable harness comes out somewhere! To do a continuity test you set the meter to the highest ohm scale. Short the test leads together, the needle should deflect. Calibrate the meter to zero by using the zeroing knob or adjustment. Now take a test lead go to the speed pot, place the test lead on to the pot terminal. Trace the wire hooked to the speed pot terminal to its connector plug. Take a measurement from the output side of the connector, not from where the wire goes inti the connector this way we test the connection too. If you get resistance pull the connector apart put it together again\retest, All the stuff in the tiller run into some sort of cable that either plugs directly into the controller if your lucky. If your not lucky and i wasn't the cable runs into the main harness [ the rats nest]. Here you must use s little logic. The lines we are looking at are control lines generally speaking really slender usually around 22 awg. Power lines are way fatter usually 12 to 14 awg. So you right off know that if you got a 22awg wire input you will have the same output. The controllers connector blocks are arranged by function. You can bet
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2 Answers

Jaguar xj6 4.0 1990. showing fault code fuel 14, fail 14. what does this code mean ?


2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve
this is all I could find

Nov 09, 2009 | 1990 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

Uniden UH-013 squelch


Had an issue with this unit since new. Squelch adjusted too high. Not hearing some signals showing on meter. Solution - find a trim pot labelled "Meter" on the PC board and adjust it like a knobby squelch control. Made a big difference to the number of received stations. Down side is I need to use SQT tight squelch sometimes.

Feb 20, 2009 | Radio Communications

1 Answer

G2 alignments?


Hello YankeeTwidgt,

Here we go you will need a schematic diagram (You may already have one but I thought I would mention it ), an oscilloscope, a TV signal generator (NTSC color bar, RGB purity screens, and pattern screen), and a voltmeter (I would prefer you have a VTVM, but a digital meter with high impedance (>=10M) will be ok).

First turn all of the color and tint controls completely down (This includes the main color and tint and the pre-amp color controls if you have access to them).

Then turn the RGB pots fully counterclockwise.

Once this is done connect the signal generator set to channel 3, and set to the specifications on the schematic, use the color bars, what you should see at this point are bars of various shades of gray.

Then turn the generator to the purity setting and set the pattern to red.

Once this is done your screen should be dark or dark red, gradually adjust the R pot until the screen is pure red and the voltages, and signals match what is seen in the schematic (mark this point on the pot and the return the pot to fully counterclockwise).

Do the same for the Blue and Green Controls (Blue first and then Green).

Once all of the pots are marked and turned to counterclockwise, set the pattern to gray purity, and turn the pots back up to their marked positions, the screen should be gray. switch to color bars and the screen should have the proper colors.

This is a course adjustment, and you will have to do a fine adjustment using the schematic, and the test tools, but this will put you way into the ball park.

The reason these pots are not talked about in gray scale adjustments is because they usually don't have to be touched. That's why it is important to get them back to specification using the voltmeter and oscilloscope to set the signals up properly.


I wish you success,

Shuttle83


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