Question about Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW 24" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

2 Answers

Click, small puff of smoke and dead.

Had the screen turned off and when pressing the green button, a snapping 'plick' was heard and an very tiny puff off smoke came from the ventslots at the top on the backplane, verticly above the buttons.
The screen is three years, and one month, of course, old. Can i open it, and in yhat case how, and look for any components likely to have falied or is everything integrated in cicuits?

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  • jsundh Jan 25, 2009

    Was working with the computer and puff and everything went black. I need to change a fuse in my house and the lights was on again. Everything started but the monitor. The screen is black and no green light from the button. Could it be something with the power supply ? The monitor is 3 years and 2 month.... It is possibly to open up the monitor and change the power supply or the fuse in the monitor ?

  • lasselson Feb 04, 2009

    Me again. (lasselson) Got the monitor open by simply prying the front frame off, opened the rest inside and found, on the BenQ-produced powersupplyboard, (48.L1E02.A02) a 120 microfarad capacitor with a broken lead with a brownish powder round the place, a burnt resistor (a couple of watts, raised from the board) and on the flipside, a integrated cicuit, eight leg, vith the top gone and visibal metal inside. There is one more like it that says '200A6' and 'PCGW' on the casing. I don't have a componentlist and no way to see what this IC without its 'roof' is but maybe the cause of failure is due to the broken lead on the capacitor, looks like acid-burt-off lead and would be fun trying to fit another IC to se if that would fix it. (cap and res too off cource) but what is it? Anyone..

    IC on board is number IC601 and IC651. -A new board is quite costly...

    Regards

    lasselson

  • lasselson Feb 04, 2009

    As I stated above, it is very easy to open (Ijust bent the frontframe witht my fingers prying it with the fingertips outwards (with tips between frame and screen) There is an instrctionvideo on the net also but opening with a plastic tool around the outside. -Only remove the 4 screews on the backplane first. Then there are a couple of screwws inside to get covers away and your'e in. IF the failiure is ONLY on the powersupplyboard, you can Google it by revisionnumber and maybe...

    Try http://www.lcdrepair.us/2405fp-power.htm... and see if that's the one. 59 dollars + delivery. (If you have a meltdown on the other board, it is also awailebel)

    Good luck!

    lasselson

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  • 13 Answers

I had the same problem as lasselson. The monitor apparently failed with a "bang". Followed instructions on YouTube to get the case open. C605 capacitor had failed in exactly the way described, and the main fuse (T4A 250V HBC 20mm x 5mm) was blown. I could find no other damage at that point so replaced the fuse (in a holder!) and cap, put the cover on, applied power and "Pop!".
Had another look and found that IC651 had part of the top blown off. (The big resistors standing off the board all seem to have survived though).
Amazingly I found the top of IC651 and with a tiny dot of superglue, put it back in its original location. Had to scrape off laquer and clean the residue with isopropyl alcohol. This revealed the ST logo and figure "6561". Did a search and I'm pretty certain this is the L6561 Power Factor Corrector:

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/5109.pdf

I'll let you know how I get on!
In the meantime, any additional update/advice info would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Chris Colborne (Technician), Diamond Light Source, UK.

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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  • chrislltryit May 28, 2010

    Repair of DELL 2405FPW monitor, was completely dead. Power Supply Board 48.L1E02.A02 repair successfully completed 27th May 2010.
    IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER:
    Every effort has been made to avoid errors in my report but I accept no responsibility for any loss or damage resulting from any inaccuracies in it.

    Contents:
    1) Summary.
    2) How to open the case. (The basic principles apply to many other models)
    3) Fault-finding and repair of the power supply board, in my particular case.
    4) replacement components list
    5) How to quickly tell whether you suffered the same faulty component(s) as me.

    1) I'm not an expert in monitor repair or switch-mode power supply repair. However I managed to completely cure what turned out to be multiple failures on the power supply board. I replaced several obviously damaged components but did not get it to work. However, I was fortunate to have access to an identical working monitor to compare it with, taking meter readings of resistance, capacitance and diode voltage drops (as appropriate) all over the boards, spotting any differences and tracking them down to specific components. Once all the faulty components had been identified and replaced, the whole thing burst into life! You may not have the luxury of a good board to compare it with, but hopefully what I found out about mine will be useful to you.

    NOTE: at no time was it necessary to have the inner metal covers removed while power was connected. No matter how careful you are there is always the chance of a slip-up when hazardhous voltages are exposed - this risk was completely eliminated by doing all probing of the circuit dead (not always possible, but always desirable!) and re-fitting the protective earth lead and putting the metal cover back on with just a couple of screws each time I tried it out. It added only seconds to the time taken to do the job.

    2) To open the case: first prepare a clean, clear area of bench to work on. A cluttered bench could result in damage to the screen when you lay it flat on its front!
    a) unclip the panel from its stand and remove the four screws in the center that usually hide behind the VESA Mount.
    b) stand the panel upright on the bench on its bottom edge. Using your fingertips prize the front bezel (plastic frame) forward from the glass, but without putting excessive pressure on the glass. It should come away with a series of 'snaps' as it releases from the back section of the plastic case. Proceed all the way around the screen detaching the bezel from the back. You do not need to completely remove the front bezel as it is connected at the bottom with a ribbon cable to carry the signals for the buttons and LEDs and this cable must not be stressed.
    c) The back section of the case, together with the silver portion (which is screwed to it) can now be completely removed and the panel laid face down on the bench, resting in its bezel. Do not lose the little mounting release button which is now free too fall out of the back of the Vesa mounting in the case!
    d) Now we see all the metal covers hiding the various subsystems of the monitor. With the bottom of the screen towards you on the bench, the driver for the backlight is readily accessed by removing the four screws holding down the shiny cover on the left. But I wasn't after that.
    e) to access the power supply and system board you first have to remove the shiny cover over the memory card reader/USB hub on the right. Remove the single screw on the top left of it. While gently lifting the two little clips at the extreme right-hand edge, slide the shiny cover to the right to release it from the main panel chassis.
    f) Now you should be able to access all six screws holding the central metal cover on. Remove the screws and simply lift the cover upwards to expose the PSU and system boards.
    g) To remove the power supply board: Note the position of the little black plastic clip retaining the power inlet connector before removing it. Disconnect the two multi-way cable looms from the system board (right) and backlight inverter board (left, top). NOTE: The looms do NOT detach from the power supply board! Remove the three screws from the corners of the power supply board (note these are the ones with very broad heads) and the big shiny screw tying the protective earth lead to the chassis. The PCB is now only held in place with a little white plastic clincher near the middle which needs both sides to be squeezed before the board can be lifted clear.

    3) Faultfinding and Repair
    a) The first thing worth looking at when working blind on a failed switch-mode power supply is the large, high voltage electrolytic capacitor. In this case, it's C605, value 120uF, 450V. Sure enough, with the meter set on capacitance there was no reading - dead capacitor. I used the most readily available alternative, which was a different physical size but still fits within the cover.
    b) Near the mains inlet is F601, a 4A, 20mm, antisurge ceramic fuse (T4A H). Inevitably this was blown. Since it had solder leads to the board, I replaced it with a fuse holder with overall insulation, fully anticipating I would get through a few fuses before getting the right result - but in the event this did not happen. The pin spacing on the board is 25mm (1 inch) so I had to slightly spread the pins of the fuse holder which was designed for 22.6mm centres.
    c) Visual inspection of the underside (surface mount side) of the board revealed a charred integrated circuit IC651. However enough of it was left to read the part number, L6561D. This was replaced. Nearby, R669 was also burnt, It is an 0805 size, 1Kilohm resistor. I replaced it with a higher power, 1206 size one for good measure.
    d) there was no other visible evidence of damage so I put it back on the monitor, connected the two output looms and earth wire, fitted the metal cover with 3 screws and powered it up - Still completely dead.
    e) Probing resistance across the terminals of all the large transistor-type devices I found a very low resistance across Q651, indicating a failure. Using Famous Windows Search Engine on the case marking, This was identified as a MOSFET of type 10NK60, readily available. Test: still dead!
    f) Probing diode drops and resitance around the two boards I discovered an anomaly around ZD601 (a diode in a MELF-like surface mount package) which appeared to resemble a 22-ohm resistor! I removed the one from the good board and with a suitable test circuit found it to be a 15V Zener Diode. Replaced the faulty one (with a leaded device fited to the smd pads) but there was still an anomaly in this general area of the board, see next paragraph:
    g) Probing capacitance around the electrolytics on the two boards I found that the capacitance measured at C611 (a 47uF, 35V electrolytic capacitor on the Top side) was 47uF on the good board but 68uF on the bad board. I removed the capacitor but it was found to be OK reading 47uF by itself. The positive lead goes to pin 6 of IC601. WHen I lifted this pin the measurement dropped to the proper value, indicating that IC601 was the next faulty device to change. This was hard to identify but again using a FWSE on the case marking "200A6" found it was in fact a PWM driver for standby power applications, readily available. Replaced this: And the job is done!

    New components list (all replacing definitely dead parts) all purchased from Farnell Electronic Components, but equivalents should be available from any major distributor.
    a) F601 T4A HBC fuse, FEC code 135-4592 (in a plastic shrouded holder, FEC code 976-120)
    b) C605 120uF/450V electrolytic capacitor, snap-in, FEC code 178-2697, £3.12 (Not same dimensions as the original, but made to fit with extended leads!)
    c) Q651 STP10NK60ZFP, Zener protected N-channel MOSFET, TO-220, FEC code 993-5517, £1.31
    d) IC651 L6561D, Power Factor Corrector IC, SO-8, FEC code 988-2464, £0.79
    e) R669 1k 1206 (commodity item) soldered onto 0805 pads
    f) ZD601 15V 0.5W Zener diode (commodity item) soldered onto SMD pads
    g) IC601 NCP1200D, PWM controller for low-power off-line supplies (original was NCP1200A), SO-8, FEC code 165-2430, £0.91

    How to quickly tell if yours suffered the same fault(s) as mine, armed only with a multimeter (including capacitance reading):
    a) F601: Resistance of fuse high!
    b) C605: Capacitance reading not correct
    c) Q651: Resistance only a few ohms between one pair of pins
    d) IC651: visibly burnt
    e) R669: visibly burnt/ resistance no longer 1k
    f) ZD601: resistance of about 22R across it, both ways round?
    g) IC601: Capacitance measured across C611 appears more than 47uF even though C611 is OK.

    Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling. Connect all cables, especially ensure the safety erth lead is tightly screwed to the chassis. Fit the other three screws (with extra wide heads) to hols the Power Supply board in. Fit the black plastic clip over the top of the mains inlet - it only fits on way round.
    Chris Colborne (Senior Electronics Technician, Diamond Light Source Ltd, Didcot, Oxon, United Kingdom).
    www.diamond.ac.uk

  • msebastian63 Feb 07, 2011

    Thank you for sharing this.
    Keep up the good work, Chris

  • RatleyRescue Jul 05, 2011

    Thanks for this, it gave me a great head start. In my case the symptoms were slightly different, no smoke, it just went off. On examination I found that the fuse F601 had blown, C605 +ve leg had blown off, R670 was burnt and Q651 was short circuit. I also used Farnell and ordered:-
    F601 replaced with fuse holder 146123 (had to drill the holes out in the pcb) and fuse 1354592.
    C605 i went for a slightly higher rating of 150uF, 450V 1165371, but I did have to extend the legs.
    R670 I replaced with a wire wound 3W 0R22 9503510 - N.B. there are several other similar ones on the ocb.
    Q651 I used the 9935517.

    i also replaced the two chips as above, but I suspect that they were probaby Ok as there was no signs of destruction around them!

    Not having another pcb to compare with, I did trace out some of the circuit. Basically from the mains connector up to C605 there is a whole bunch of filters to stop switching noise getting back out onto the mains (TR601, C603, L608, C601, C604, L601) and then a full bridge rectifier (BD601 - Bridge Diode? International rectifier p/n GSIB4A60), another filter (C617, L609, C618), another diode D651 (I'm not sure why) and finally C605 that provides the rectified, smoothed main supply for the switch mode step down circuit of D652, Q651 and associated transformer - that I forgot to write down the number for, but its obvious!

    Final comment - be brave when separating the case, the two halves need serious persuading to come apart!

  • Squirrel999 Aug 10, 2011

    Thanks Chris,

    I followed your instructions and managed to coerce my partners 2405FPW back to life.

    For me, R669 (the 1k surface mount resistor) was fine, but R670, a chunky 0.22 ohm power resistor, had popped (it was dis.). Everything else was blown as you described.

    I found that some of the Farnel components are no longer available, and others are 'US Stock only' which adds a further £15 stocking fee, so I ended up ordering things like the big cap and fuse holder from China via ebay.

    Incidentally, for those who (like me) haven't done any surface mount soldering, don't be put off.

    I actually spent longer sorting out the through-hole components than I spent on the surface mount components. Just make sure you have a pair of tweezers to hold SMT components in place and a reasonably fine soldering iron tip. I've been pretty impressed by the £36 temperature controlled solder station, Farnell is selling (173-7234).

    Also, I found an excellent article on de-soldering surface mount chips on stack exchange:http://electronics.stackexchange.com/que...

    In fact, I ended up accidentally soldering the replacement IC651 onto the IC601 position, but realised my mistake as soon as I came to solder in IC651. I used the solder bridge technique to pluck the chip back off the board, soldered it into the correct position and it worked fine, so it's not just a technique for removing dead components - with care it can be used to remove or reposition live ones.

    Needless to say, my partner was absolutely delighted to have her monitor back - it turned out to be a fantastic birthday present.

  • chrislltryit Aug 15, 2011

    Excellent notes Squirrel, nice job.
    By the way I've fixed another of ours with tiny variations in the meter readings I got, so I now keep a kit of parts on standby at all times and it's a 20 minute job!

  • John Greenwood Oct 19, 2013

    Could someone help me to locate the detailed fix instructions for the Dell power supply I have a Dell 2407wfp with a faultly power supply and from reading the above it sounds like the same fault where the top of the chip has blown off

  • chrislltryit Oct 22, 2013

    Hi John. Finding this site hard to navigate so here are my own notes again. No guarantee you have exactly the same faults as I did though!

  • chrislltryit Oct 22, 2013

    Faultfinding and Repair a) The first thing worth looking at when working blind on a failed switch-mode power supply is the large, high voltage electrolytic capacitor. In this case, it's C605, value 120uF, 450V. Sure enough, with the meter set on capacitance there was no reading - dead capacitor. I used the most readily available alternative, which was a different physical size but still fits within the cover. b) Near the mains inlet is F601, a 4A, 20mm, antisurge ceramic fuse (T4A H). Inevitably this was blown. Since it had solder leads to the board, I replaced it with a fuse holder with overall insulation, fully anticipating I would get through a few fuses before getting the right result - but in the event this did not happen. The pin spacing on the board is 25mm (1 inch) so I had to slightly spread the pins of the fuse holder which was designed for 22.6mm centres. c) Visual inspection of the underside (surface mount side) of the board revealed a charred integrated circuit IC651. However enough of it was left to read the part number, L6561D. This was replaced. Nearby, R669 was also burnt, It is an 0805 size, 1Kilohm resistor. I replaced it with a higher power, 1206 size one for good measure. d) there was no other visible evidence of damage so I put it back on the monitor, connected the two output looms and earth wire, fitted the metal cover with 3 screws and powered it up - Still completely dead. e) Probing resistance across the terminals of all the large transistor-type devices I found a very low resistance across Q651, indicating a failure. Using Famous Windows Search Engine on the case marking, This was identified as a MOSFET of type 10NK60, readily available. Test: still dead! f) Probing diode drops and resitance around the two boards I discovered an anomaly around ZD601 (a diode in a MELF-like surface mount package) which appeared to resemble a 22-ohm resistor! I removed the one from the good board and with a suitable test circuit found it to be a 15V Zener Diode. Replaced the faulty one (with a leaded device fited to the smd pads) but there was still an anomaly in this general area of the board, see next paragraph: g) Probing capacitance around the electrolytics on the two boards I found that the capacitance measured at C611 (a 47uF, 35V electrolytic capacitor on the Top side) was 47uF on the good board but 68uF on the bad board. I removed the capacitor but it was found to be OK reading 47uF by itself. The positive lead goes to pin 6 of IC601. WHen I lifted this pin the measurement dropped to the proper value, indicating that IC601 was the next faulty device to change. This was hard to identify but again using a FWSE on the case marking "200A6" found it was in fact a PWM driver for standby power applications, readily available. Replaced this: And the job is done! Second monitor repaired 18/4/11: similar, but R669 was fine and some of the meter readings obtained were slightly different to those mentioned above. Replaced all the other components, which were all confirmed faulty. Third monitor visually the same as the second one above. Confirmed dead C605 and Q651 and discoloured IC651. Additionally a big pink resistor (Red-Red-Silver) had a chunk out of it, blackened within, and resistance between its pads (in circuit) in excess of 1Megohm. Measured the other identical one out of circuit, which read 0.3ohm so it must be a 0.22R resistor, eg F.1779292 (1W) Full parts list (if everything needed!) increases to: Part Description Farnell code Q651 Mosfet STP10NK60 9935517 C605 Cap 120uF 450V 1198633 IC651 L6561D (SO-8) 9882464 IC601 NCP1200D (SO-8) 1652430 R6xx 0.22R, 3W resistor 1779305 F601 T4A(H) 20mm fuse 1354592 (F601) 20mm Fuse holder 976120 ZD601 15V 0.5W (SMT) 1466639 R669 1k resistor 1206

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Exact same prob.

my 2405fpw by date was june 2006. went poof beginning of Feb 10

Posted on Mar 01, 2010

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