Question about Whirlpool GX5FHDXVY Stainless Steel (248 cu ft) Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator

1 Answer

Frost on evaporator and compressor runs continuously

Refrigerator doesn't cool

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,472 Answers

You will need to replace the defrost thermostat on the evaporator coil. Here is the part to order.

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer not freezing, refrigerator warm, hear clicking sound

The overload/relay on the compressor is shorted . This is the piece with 2 or 3 wires connected to it , mounted on the compressor . The part # you need is 8201786 . Complete mounting instructions , come with this kit . Easily replaceable .

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool refrigerator stopped cooling. the

You have a bad overload/relay . This is the piece pluged onto the side of the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it . The part number is 8201786 . It is easily replaceable and instructions come with it . Price is around $60.00 .

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: Cat number ED25TEXHW00, side by side, Whirlpool

If the compressor will not kick on what you have is either a bad compressor or a bad starting device. Generally the unit will try and start and after 8 seconds or so you will hear a loud tick. That indicates the relay is bad. If the compressor is bad it will usually make a loud humming noise.

The start device is plugged into the side of the compressor. Unplug the frig. You can simply take off the wires to the start device (remember where they go!!!!!) and pull it off. You have two piece, the overload and the relay. The relay is the piece that is most likely the problem. Some machines will have these put together in a white plastic block. You can shake this entire piece and if you hear loud rattling it is broken. Sometimes the relay is visibly burned and blacked where it plugs into the compressor. Anyway, if you do not have this white plastic relay/overload combo, the relay is a brown square shaped plastic piece. Shake it and see if you hear rattling. If not, chances are very good the relay is ok, and the compressor is locked up.

Compressor changes are expensive and unless the frig is extremely nice and cost a pretty penny, they aren't worth fixing. Relays and overloads should not break $100 for the parts, and any tech should be able to change one in under 10 minutes. So if it's a relay fix that puppy! good luck :D

Posted on May 30, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator and freezer are not cooling. already

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer2_bing.gif and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator2_bing.gif Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning

Refrigerator Troubleshooting2_bing.gif Refrigerator Compressor
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Posted on Jun 09, 2010

kdrake84
  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling. fans working. compressor

I will need you full model number please.
Watch the video for the information on how to locate it. Reply back to me with the number and we can get you back up and running.
Click on the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJI_8_Tjplw

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

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1 Answer

My GE side by side refrigerator, model TFX25ZPit runs continuously, does not shut off, how can I fix?


My advice is usually to start simple. Take the bottom cover off and vacuum the coils that are probably covered with dust. That will help your refrigerator function better.

According to DoItYourself.com:
"Troubleshooting a refrigerator that runs continuously requires an understanding of how the refrigerator works. By definition, a refrigerator is one of the few appliances within your home that has to run on a continuous basis. If the refrigerator is not running, it will not be able to keep food cold, which will lead to spoilage and waste. The way refrigerators are built to run on a constant basis, they break down on an infrequent basis.
When a refrigerator experiences problems or seems to be breaking down, there are some steps that can be taken to troubleshoot the problem. A continuously running refrigerator is indicative of a problem with one of the components within the refrigerator that needs to be assessed in order to determine the proper fix. In order to properly troubleshoot problems with your refrigerator that runs continuously, an understanding of how the refrigerator works is in order.
Condenser and Evaporator Coil The refrigerator consists of a condenser coil and an evaporator coil. It is kept cold by a liquid coolant that is pumped between the condenser and evaporator through the use of a compressor and motor. The coolant moves from the condenser where it is cooled into the evaporator. The condenser coils inside the refrigerator can be seen on the outside of the appliance while the evaporator coil is located inside the refrigerator.
The Role of the Heater and Thermostat Frost and condensation rarely builds up inside the refrigerator. A heater inside the refrigerator melts any frost that may occur inside the refrigerator long before it ever appears. This melting of frost takes place at various stages inside the refrigerator. After the melting process that takes place with the heater, the thermostat is engaged to set the refrigerator at its proper cooling temperature, keeping frost from building up.
Identifying Specific Problems Most of the parts that make up the compressor and evaporator units inside the refrigerator, consisting of thermostats, the heater, condenser, fans and various switches, are easy to identify and replace. The trick to troubleshooting the refrigerator that runs continuously is to listen for noises and sounds that occur and seem unusual to you. A loud running refrigerator or constant churning of ice when the ice makes is not engaged can indicate problems with the motors or compressors that need to be replaced immediately.
Addressing Problems with a Continuously Running Refrigerator Nearly all problems that can be uncovered by troubleshooting your refrigerator can be fixed by most every do-it-yourselfer. Those problems with your refrigerator running constantly that involves the coils located outside or inside the refrigerator should be handled by a professional repair technician. This is because the coils contain the refrigerant that can be dangerous if you are exposed to it accidentally during the course of a repair. If you notice a problem with the refrigerator or a constant running that seems to be getting progressively worse over time, the best way to address the issue is to isolate the problem and fix it."

Apr 23, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Hotpoint HSS25GFPEWW side by side.....initially the ice maker stopped crushing and dispensing ice....then the freezer started to warm. I cleaned the condenser coils and confirmed the condenser...


dead if the compressor is running and theres no cooling or frost on the evaporator you have leaked out all your freon only way to fix is call a pro about 600$ to fix

Aug 15, 2012 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

1 Answer

WRS6R3EW8 Refrigerator and freezer not cooling. Evaporator coil 60 deg. only. Compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan running. Some frost on the tubing coming from condenser at the evaporator. ...


Where is it frosting, condenser or evaporator? If you mean frosting on evaporator line to compressor, probably iced up evaporator. If you mean frosting after condenser by capillary, unit short of gas/ blocked.

Apr 27, 2012 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The fan is working. The fridge, freezer & coils are not iced up. There is good room for air circulation. I vacuumed most of the dust from the coils, etc. The compressor is just slightly warm to the...


Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

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Oct 23, 2011 | Frigidaire PLHT217TA Top Freezer...

1 Answer

My refrigerator stops working yesterday. Compressor and compressor fan seems to be working....inside fans are working but its not cooling, freezing or making ice.


Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm



Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.

Jul 28, 2011 | Samsung RFG299AARS Stainless Steel (285 cu...

1 Answer

Freezer door was left open...everything thawed out even refrigerator side is warm. Fan was still on when I noticed door open. Took out all the food...closed door but no fan is on and it's...


Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.

Jun 21, 2011 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refrigerator and freezer not cooling.


Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.

May 25, 2011 | Maytag MSD2454G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

My refrigerator no cooling or my freezer


. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).
If it's iced up really heavy you have an auto defrost problem. Melt the ice with a hairdryer and check the defrost system.

Jan 28, 2011 | Maytag MSD2651 HE Side by Side...

1 Answer

How to test the compressor


see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor

  • The Thermostat

  • The overload, relay, or capacitor

  • The defrost timer

  • The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Jul 18, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer wont freeze, compressor always running, refrigerator not cold


HI,

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Jul 03, 2009 | Traulsen Freezer Refrigeration 4 - 1/2...

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