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My furnace blows but shuts off and green light flashes

The furnace comes on the ignitor lights the flame and it burns for six seconds and shuts off and this repeats three or four times and then the green light will start to flash once every two seconds and then everything shuts down. I can turn off the furnace and the whole process repeats itself. So what do i do how do i fix this problem

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YOU MOST LIKELY NEED A NEW THERMOSTAT. You need to make sure you get the correct one they are not all the same.. you will also need to set how long the fan stays on after its stops heating the ducts If you have your owners Manuel look and see what kind it calls for. If your talking about a manufactured home it will be with all of correspondence.. I hope this was helpful and the green light is good but not blinking

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

machtcl1
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: furnace starts properly, then shuts down, led flashes 8 times

The first thing to look at is the flame sense rod.
Shut off power to the furnace, remove, clean sensor with steel wool or sandpaper then reinstall the sensor. Reapply power and it should run properly.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Goodman Furnace Lights But Won't Continue to Run

The flame sensor is dirty. You can not see the build up on the sensor but enough build up will change the resistance and the furnace thinks there is no flame.

To clean the sensor, first you need to locate it. it will be a sensor located in the path of one of the flames. Once you locate the sensor, open the bottom panel to turn"off" the furnce. After the panel is removed, unscrew the sensor from the frame above the jets. Use a clean rag and gently wipe the sensor several times. Place back in the cut out and close the lower panel.

The furnace should cycle on and the flame stay on for the normal cycle.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: FURNACE COMES ON AND SHUTS DOWN WITHIN 15 SECONDS

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control). When all else fails, check the ground connection for corrosion.

Posted on Nov 23, 2009

  • 266 Answers

SOURCE: I turn the thermostat on

This on blink of the light is a system lockout. It is caused when no gas is released to light the burner. The first thing to try is to turn the power off to the unit make sure your thermostat is off also. Turn the unit back on and make sure your gas is turned on. Then turn on the thermostat. Try this 3 or 4 times to make sure there is not air trapped in the gas line preventing ignition. If it lights after doing this you should check for a small gas leak at all fittings and shut off valves. The reason for this is to make sure you do not have a slow leak. If you smell gas turn off the furnace and your gas main valve and call a repair person. If you are unable to turn off the gas you should call the utility immediately. The cycle for your furnace is as follows. When your thermostate demands heat a signal is sent to your circuit board in the furnace and it turns on a exhaust fan to cause a draft to push air out the flu. (this fan is on 92% and higher funaces) This fan has two vacume lines that run to two vacume switches one is for the presence of vacume the other is for sensing the release of vacume. These are low voltage switches hooked into the 24v system. If the fan works and the switches sense vacume it then turns on the gas igniter this will be a glow bar and you will see it glowing. This in turn has a sensor that near it that can sense the heat from the glow bar igniter and it in turn turns on the gas by sending the 24v signal to the gas valve. If after 8 to 15 seconds the flame does not come on the system will reset and try again for a total of 3 times. If any of the above systems do not work your furnace will lock out because it thinks there is gas being dumped into the furnace. If the exhaust fan comes on you have 24v going thru your thermostat to the furnace. Then the vacume switches have to work. One is normally open the other normally closed. If you have a volt/ohm meter which can be purchased for as little as 10 to 15 dollars at a hardware store you can check these switches. You will need to set the thermostat to off and turn off voltage to your furnace for safety. Then locate the two switches by following the black rubber vacume lines from the exhaust fan housing to the switches. Pull the wires off the switches and with the meter set on ohms place the leads on the two terminals. While the meter is hooked up pull the vacume line off the fan housing and **** air in and out of the line the meter should swing back and forth as it senses vacume and the lack of it. If it does it is working. Then do the other vacume switch. Make sure to keep your wires and where the vacume lines go straight. You will also see a sensor mounted above and center where your burners are at it will have two wires going to it and it will be round it should show continuity ck it by removing the wires form it and touching the meter leads to the connectors the meter should respond showing continuity. There are two others under the burners on each side ck them the same. If any of your sensors have a pop ot button in the center press in on it yours should not this is an older version yours should be self reseting. The only other sensor is located in the blower for circulating the air. It is located on the right hand side of the blower housing with a red and yellow wire going to it. It has a reset in the center this sensor is used to trip if the heat in the blower housing gets to hot. This happens when the blower motor quits or is not able to move air fast enough due to restrictions. If the sensor has tripped you will feel and should hear an audible click when you press on the center button also if you check it for continuity it will show none and when you press the button it will show continuity. The next thing is the gas valve If all of the above work it is either the gas valve not opening or your circuit board. All of the parts are inexspensive until you get to the circuit board and the gas valve. The gas valve should be replaced by a repair person. You can replace everything else just make sure you turn off the power and pay close attention to the wiring. I hope this helps good luck. But not to down play the above make sure te top panel is in place put your hand on the gas valve and have someone turn on the thermostat. If the exhaust blower comes on and the ignitor glows you should then feel a click from the gas valve if you do not it us normally the circuit board. If you do and it still doesnt light you have no gas coming to your furnace. I hope this helps good luck

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

  • 224 Answers

SOURCE: Ruud Silhouette II Gas Furnace, purges, lights

I would be looking at the heat exchanger. They are designed to have the heat from burnt fuel flow thru them. Cracking or pin holes will let the super heated air into the furnace interior and in there you have some over heating protection some look like buttons, older they look like an external thermostat, and these get the hot gas from the burners and trip then the furnace shuts down. When the furnace comes on again some times the blower will come right on because the sensor says hey this thing is hot when in fact it isn't. This also can and if bad enough will cause carbon monoxide poisoning, please inspect this closely or have a professional look at this. There is no price ever to great to replace a human life.Sorry probably not the answer you wanted but better safe than sorry!

Posted on Dec 20, 2010

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1 Answer

York Diamond 90 furnace blows cold air


There maybe a few issues. They have multiple safeties on furnaces. With this in mind this process to find the problem would take a Technician to check these safeties. It could be a flame sensor or thermocoupler each senses a flame or heat to keep the gas going. Also the damper for the flue must open for the gas to stay on. There may be more safeties on this and each safety sends a 24 volt current back to control module in order for the gas valve to stay open. If these aren't being met it will try around three times and go into a lock out mode which will keep gas shut off entirely.

Feb 21, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

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America standard freedom 90 furnace. when the thermostat call for heat the ignitor glows then burner lights but only stays on for 1-2 seconds if i shut off the furnace power for a few minutes then turn...


Hi,

Check the flame sensor and/or the grounding from the burner ot the ignition control....it is not sensing the flame...

Here is a tip that will help you try to figure out why your furnace is not working.

Basic Furnace or Heating System Troubleshooting

heatman101

Feb 25, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My heater isn't blowing any heat. I hear the fan come in, and i think i hear the gas come on, but nothing comes out of the vents. The fan only comes on for a couple of minutes and then goes off.


Ok so here is a sequence of the heater lighting and the solution for your problem...
1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help you identify a flame sensor.
Thanks and I hope this helps. Feedback apprec.

Jan 28, 2011 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

2 Answers

I have a Goodman gas furnance. The furmance kicks on the glow rod lights and then the furnance shuts down after about 60 seconds it goes through the same cycle. The burners never come on. What's wrong?


Let's trouble shoot a few possibilities:

Can you confirm that your gas pressure/ supply is correct-- by lighting all of the range top burners at the same time-- Do they all light quickly, and burn to full height, without much of any yellowing at the flame tips? That should indicate you have god gas pressure and supply.

Now-- in the Oven itself-
When you light the BROIL burner-- does it's glow ignitor light up, and does that burner light off OK?

If it is only the main oven burner that is not lighting, are you able to remove the cover plate that covers it, and watch it light off? -- Any clues on whether or not the gas valve even open?

If NO gas flow, likely you need a new Main Oven Gas Valve-- Probably need to call your Gas Appliance service person.

Let us know if this helped

Mack B

Jan 23, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Doesnt blow any heat we checked all connections furnace clicks on but never gets warm we think maybe its the heating element but we are not sure how to get to it to check


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem.The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Dec 19, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a ng furnace downstairs that started this a couple of days aga....It comes on like it is suppose to and runs until it shuts off. Once the blower cuts off it stays off for about 1 second and then...


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Dec 06, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

The Goodman Heater was installed in 2004. Thermostat set at 75F, the fan that blows CO2 out was on for about 1 minute, then I could hear the sound of the gas blowing into the furnace, but the ignitor...


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Nov 30, 2010 | Goodman GMS80903BNA Heater

1 Answer

I AM WORKING ON A CARRIER 90% FURNACE. IT WILL NOT FIRE UP. IT SHOWS A 34 CODE. THE IGNITOR DOES NOT ENERGIZE FROM THE BOARD. NO POWER COMING FROM THE BOARD. I HERE A CLICK AS IF IT IS TRYING BUT NO...


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat.

2. Draft inducer motor starts.

3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Nov 25, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Heater lights for about 5 sec and then goes out


One flash on a Ruud furnace indicates failure to ignite. There is a viewing port on the furnace where you can watch the flame. If the ignitor is igniting the burner and then 2 or 3 seconds later, the flame goes out; you most likely have a flame sensor that is dirty or not working. Check to make sure you are getting gas. Check the connections of all wires to the control board. If the sensor is not part of the ignitor, see if you can get to it to clean it with a small wire brush. Make sure there is a good ground connection between the board and furnace frame. If the flame is not traveling all the way to the flame sensor, clean your burners. If the flame burns inside the burners, you may have weak gas pressure. Good Luck.

Sep 29, 2007 | Heating & Cooling

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