Question about Washing Machines
You should definately keep the door ajar when not in use. However it only helps, it will not cure your odor problem. Try a cup of bleach poured directly into the soap compartment of the dispenser (not the bleach compartment) and run the clean cycle. Again this only helps does not cure. Ultimately you will have to remove the bottom panel to access the drain pump. The first link below is a really good video that will show you how to get it out. Your screws are on the very bottom (i think) He is servicing a kenmore in video but maytag is nearly identical in it's setup. The next link shows you how to take the pump apart. Sounds hard and time consuming, but it's really not. That pump is full of black funk. Take it apart carefully or you will get funky too. When completed no more odor. Hope it helps:
Posted on Dec 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: maytag neptune front loader
I would say that you have damaged your door lock. Most appliances have a door lock or a mico switch. this is the first port of call for the power to supply the w/machine.Safety measures??? go back to basics,is the door locking, any power to the going to the electronics. a door. Change faulty components???
Posted on Aug 15, 2007
SOURCE: I have a Maytag Neptune
For replacing the nuptune boots, I belive these are all of the steps. First, take the 2 phillips screws out of the door hinges. You should be able to lift slightly on the door and pull it towards you to remove it. Also remove the 2 phillips screws straight across from them. This will let your front panel come of (grasp up top and twist slightly to get it off the clips. Lower the front down and you can remove it from the washer and set it aside. Remove the 4 phillips screws from your soap/ fab softner dispenser. Next, remove the 2 5/16 screws that hold the top on to the front of the washer.
To remove the boot, first, pull the front part of the boot towards you. It will actually pull off without much effort. On the bottom (depending on model) there will be a tube at the bottom of the boot that is either stoppered up or connected to a black hose. Squeeze the green clamp to remove the hose if it does have one. To take of the back half of the boot, we're back up top. Lift the top of the machine (you may want someone to hold it or just slide the machine far enough forward the top can stand up by itself). You will see a large spring connected to what looks like a piece of cable coated in clear plastic. Pull the cable towards the front by the spring. It will quickly contract.
Reinstalation time. Take your new boot and install the back half. As you work the boot on, you will see some triangles all the way around to help you line it up correctly. Once it is on, it's time to re-clamp. This is the tough part. Typically what I do, is I make sure the cable is wrapped around the boot from the bottom with the clips at the top. (there is a nice notch for it to fit into) Next I take one side of the spring and attach it to the clip on the cable making sure that the hook side of the spring points up. Now, grab the clip on the cable (without the spring attached) with a pair pf pliers. I use a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the spring. Now I stretch the two of them together. This will not be easy and the spring will be under some tension. Once the spring is on the clip, lower the lid. (there will be a black wire harness on the right hand side that needs to be tucked back into place for the lid to close properly. Screw the lid down. Re-connect the hose at the bottom of the boot if your machine was equiped with one. Push the front part of your boot back on. Put your door back on the clips where it sits. Lift slightly on the door and swing it closed. Run a test cycle (fill, tumble and drain) while you are standing there to check for leaks. Once you have verified there are no leaks, replace the front panel and your screws. If you run into troubles, message me back.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
can be done just need PATIENCE!.. youll need ot remove the door assembly, and the 2 screws oppisirethe heing willalow for the front "u" shaped panel to be reomved.. next remove the 4 screws from with in the dispenser area, and then there are perhaps (6) 5/16 screws holding the nextfront bulkead and maintop assy down.. after removing theese screrws youll be able to lift eh main top back wards( prop it with something, a few more screws will release te hlatch assembly.. from here you can probably install the new bellow, remove the spring and wire, and the work the new bellow around the tub lip. a third hand will come in handy, after working it around , youll needto reconnect the tension spring..HARDEST PART OF JOB>>> REQUIRES PATIENCE!!!!!. sometimes this goes on for me with out issue in 5 min, other times 25 min and im PISSED AT IT!!!!!!!,, wrap the wirer around bottom of lip and your going to hold one end of spring, needlenose vice grips work perfectly. then with another set of needle nose. stretchthe spring togethr to lock the wire around.. whern you finally get this reassemble the latch and drop the top back down replace all teh screws, and finally you need to retuck the bellow into the front bulkhead( tabbs line it up nicley.. good luck!!!
Posted on Feb 22, 2009
Open the soap dispenser. Look down in front of the fabric softener dish.
You should see a yellowy-green plastic cord (like weed-whacker line). Pull it.
The door should open.
If you don't see the cord, remove the four screws that hold the dispenser lid in place to find it. Just don't lose it when you put the cover back on.
Posted on Apr 16, 2009
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