Question about Exercise & Fitness
Beeps and unresponsive
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.
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Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Hello there, It seems that you have a stuck button or a problem with the ifit card area. Yes I know you probably dont use it but just listen. If you have the demo card for the unit try putting the demo card into the ifit slot and press it in and out a couple of times. This will sometimes correct this problem. If that does not correct it then you will need to replace the console or possibly disconnect the ifit section from the console itself. Either way you will need to remove the console.
If more info is needed please leave me a note here and I will get back to you asap.
Good Luck! Tim
Posted on Jan 11, 2010
Testimonial: "Tim, Thank you very much for your help. I already had the console apart so I just unplugged the ifit section and it works perfect. Randy"
There is a belt between the front roller and the motor (drive belt) that is under the motor hood. The trick is to watch the front roller when you get on the walking belt. If the front roller stops with the walking belt, then the drive belt is loose and needs to be replaced or tightened. If you have already adjusted the walking belt, and you can hear the motor, it's the drive belt. There will be 3 screw on the front of the machine, and a couple of screws under the main frame. Tip the unit over to find the screws, and take off the cover. You'll be able to see where the slip is.
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
SOURCE: proform treadmill doesnt work
Press the Stop and the Speed Up keys down while inserting the safety key and try to get this unit in calibration mode if you cannot then, the upper console will have to be replace.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
ICON CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS- INCLINE
1) Press the Stop and the Speed Up keys down while inserting the safety key.
2) Press the Stop key one time. The Time window should read EP:2P. Some newer models may also say FP, Pass, or the like. This means that it passes the EPROM test.
3) Press either incline key and the incline will calibrate automatically.
4) THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP BECAUSE YOU WILL GET AN ERROR MESSAGE IF THIS STEP IS SKIPPED.After completing calibration of incline, press the Stop key and then remove the safety key.
If the incline moves but you it will not operate normally nor calibrate, check the wiring from the incline sensor to the power board. If all looks normal, put it back in calibration and see if you see a blinking “- -” symbol in the incline window when you are calibrating. If not, the incline sensor is bad.
If the incline moves but only just a bit, it could be a problem as simple as the gearbox on the motor being jammed. We remove the motor from the treadmill, reconnect the wiring, and then try to run the incline motor outside the treadmill. Many times, this will unjam it if that is the problem and then reinstalling it in the treadmill will get it to work. If you have the same problem or it doesn’t run outside the machine and you can hear it try to work, you need to replace the incline motor.
If the incline motor does not move, we need to figure out if the motor is getting voltage. Use a simple multi-meter and set it to AC volts. When you put it into calibration, it tries to calibrate the directions one at a time. Measure across the white and black wires first, then measure across the white and red wires second. If the motor is getting voltage you will read 120VAC (or
thereabouts) one one of the measurements. If you have voltage but the motor won't move, you need to replace the motor.
If the incline motor does not move and you have done the voltage test and you do not have any voltage present, there is a problem in the electronics board that supplies the power. If the console is powering the drive motor as normal, you can bet it is getting an incline signal and the power board needs to be replaced (some models have an integrated power board/controller) so if there is only a single board the whole board has to be replaced. It is possible the console is not giving the proper signal but we've never seen it happen in thousands of treadmills.
Posted on Jul 19, 2010
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