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GE microwave JVM1642WB004. Some numbers on the touchpad don't work. How do I know if the problem is in the touchpad or the assembly power control board?

The AM/PM,0,1 and7 keys on the touchpad don't respond. Replacement touchpad is $80.00 and the control board is $200.00 to replace.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: GE Spacemaker XL 1400 Microwave

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Posted on Nov 28, 2007

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: ge spacemaker microwave

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it has a hood thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on May 02, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Where can I get a replacement fusible link for a GE Microwave

Hi,

Just had the same problem with my GE microwave. The electric print shows that the reset temperature for this switch NT101 is 32 degrees F. I put mine in the freezer (sitting on a ice cube) over night and the next morning it was good to go. I have not run the microwave extensively since I put it back together, but so far so good.

If you want to buy this part, I believe this link is the item you want. Not too expensive: http://store.appliancezone.com/servlet/-strse-61213/GE-General-Electric-RCA/Detail

Good luck,

Dennis

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

  • 27 Answers

SOURCE: GE microwave touchpad does not respond but clock is showing

You need to unplug the microwave and leave it like that for a day or a few hours it probaly just needs to be reset !

Posted on Nov 11, 2009

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9086 Answers

SOURCE: microwave ge spacesaver touchpad does not work except for the

You have a failed membrane keypad.

If you (or someone you know) might want to replace it yourself, I have uploaded a handy guide with pictures showing you what's typically involved.
You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites. There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

If you would like to have us do this repair for you, we do that for $39.95 plus part costs nationwide.

But please note that for some GE models, the membrane keypad is not available as a separate part, so you would have to order the control panel frame assembly which comes with a new keypad.

In this case, you simply move your circuit board into the new frame.
That is a simple do-it-yourself job.

Either way, we can let you know what your options and costs would be and send you other helpful info.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Feel free to contact me
directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide

Posted on May 04, 2010

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If the microwave buttons don't work the touchpad might be at fault. Generally speaking, if the dishwasher display is working and some of the buttons respond correctly but some don't, the problem is with the touchpad.
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GE Microwave JVM1441BH04: Safe to reconnect replacement stirrer & turntable motors after accidentally burning out the turntable motor? GE JVM1441BH04 Over Stove Microwave: Tapping noise was coming from the 21v AC stirrer motor which sits atop the cooking chamber. I disconnected the two connecting leads, unfastened the single screw holding it on, placed in on my scanner glass to get a high rez photo of all the specifics listed on the motor label. Bad news: While waiting for the scan to finish, I warmed my coffee in the microwave on the highest heat for 30 seconds. I subsequently discovered the 21v AC turntable motor, which had been working just fine, was now no longer working, with infinite resistance across its terminals, and a burnt electrical smell. Both the stirrer and turntable motors are powered by a 24v tap off the magnetron fan. My theory: By running the microwave with the stirrer motor out of the circuit, I delivered excessive voltage to the turntable motor, which quickly fried. The 24v tap off the magnetron fan motor currently shows the correct 24v output. However, with both the stirrer motor and turntable motor disconnected, running the microwave for a few seconds shows approx 95v across the wire leads for both of the 21v motors. I have obtained replacement motors for both the noisy stirrer motor and the fried turntable motor. My question: Can I simply reconnect both motors in their proper locations, vow never again to run one without the other connected, and all will be well? Or will the newly installed motors simply be fried in a matter of seconds?

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