Question about Fisher and Paykel DEGX2 Dryer
Hi, I have repaired this before but not sure what is wrong this time. I removed the front panel so I could observe the heating elements. First there are not venting or air restrictions the vent is 2' away from the dryer when it is running air flow is good at the outlet. The coils heat then trip the breaker (red reset switch) I have taken out the coil section and cleaned and checked no issue. I checked the moisture sensors they are registering and reading well. I am not sure what is gone but not alot left to check.. Any help would be awesome...
Open round housing on left inside where the lint catcher is. clean it. if that not solve your problem then replace reset switch. hope it will help you.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes, get a new element. The reason it's on all the time is because the element coils have broken and one of the coils is touching the canister that encloses it. This creates a direct short to ground. By the way, the element has 120 volts to it all the time. It will only HEAT when 240 is applied through the centrifugal switch of the motor. Your 120 volts is shorting to ground... not enough amps to trip the circuit breaker, but enough to glow the element.
Posted on Aug 23, 2007
SOURCE: dryer is not heating well
a heating element is not hard to change out, open the back of the dryer and locate the heating elemental unscrew the screws and replace it. Let me rephrase that the heating elements are usually not hard to change out. I pretty sure if you no where the heating element is you will have no problem with. let me know how it goes for you.
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
SOURCE: Dryer takes too long to heat
Okay...I'm not familiar with the configuration of Fisher and Paykel dryers. I am familiar with many other dryers, though. If the wires become melted this is usually caused by excessive current flow or a loose connection. When wires at a terminal become loose the intermittent connection can cause arcing which leads to the generation of heat, which causes the wire or connector to burn open. I have also seen heating elements short out against the casing and cause an excessive current flow problem.
Just so we're clear here, current is the force that causes electrons to flow. It is usually measured in amperes (or amps). What you are measuring is the voltage. Voltage is the difference in potential between two points. If you were to measure voltage between two points (such as through a simple wire coil) you would read 0 volts because there is no differnce in potential between the two points, as the coil should read a short. Now, if you have a RESISTIVE coil, or a coil that is open (broken) the same measure would yield a voltage reading, because there is now a difference in potential between the two points. Does this make sense to you? I know it can be confusing at times because you normally associate a voltage reading as something being good. In a nutshell: if you measure across a wire coil and read voltage - the coil is open. If you read 0 volts - the coil is good.
Who knows what caused the melted wire in your appliance. The one thing I am sure of is this is not normal. If you want to replace the relay to be sure, that is your judgement call. Relays do go bad. I would strongly recommend replacing the heating element as it appears that this model has a dual element that will still work (to some degree) if one side fails. Very ingenious design, by the way.
In addition, a lot of heat related problems associated with dryers are attributed to poor ventilation. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work efficiently. If you have not cleaned or inspected your dryer vent ducting recently (or ever), you may want to. This is the source of many dryer malfunctions and can create a fire hazard or habitat for rodents. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventialtion is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the ventilation, the BETTER. Every bend or rise you put in a dryer exhaust vent line creates resistance against the blower motor and possible choke points for lint to accumulate. The lint screens in dryers are not perfect and they do not collect ALL the lint. Simply cleaning the lint trap in many cases is not enough. Cleaning after every use, however, does cut down on the potential for your ducting to become clogged. If a dryer is allowed to run in a condition where it has poor air flow, the heating circuits will actually overheat to the point of failure. I mention all of this because I don't want you to replace parts only to have the appliance fail again due to poor ventilation.
I hope you find some of this information helpful. Let em know if you have any further questions.
Posted on Sep 12, 2008
I had the same problem. Everyone continued to tell me that I needed a new heating element, clean lint trap, etc. However, I took the front off of the dryer and located the heating element. On the front of the heating element, in between two wires, there is a red button. Push the button and you might hear a click that sounds similar to a circuit breaker. It is a reset button for the heating element. Try that and it might help.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
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