Question about Amana NED5400TQ Electric Dryer

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WHY DRYER WONT HEAT ON NED5400TQ0

PUT NEW ELEMENT IN DRYER BUT STILL WON'T HEAT IS IT THE THERMAL FUSE? I'M FIXING FOR THE LANDLADY AND CAN'T SPEND ALOT

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rickead1
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SOURCE: Amana dryer not heating, replaced Thermal Cut off, High limit thermostat and Thermal Fuse, and new breakers in fuse panel

Hello, Before you replaced all those parts did you check each with a multimeter by performing an ohms test or measuring for continuity? By doing this it would tell if any of the parts that you had replaced were at fault. You can also conduct the same test on the heater as well. when performing any ohms or continuity test make sure the unit is unplugged and that you also unplug the part as well from the wires that are connected to it. I await your reply if you have any other questions. Thank you
Rick

Posted on Dec 02, 2011

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1 Answer

Dryer not drying


another user's Q&A for the same issue try that or call may tag, they are supper helpful

Investigate these five areas if your dryer is not heating up:

Proper Voltage

If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.

8574d88.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

d5b5af3.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
77d6bd4.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

    Oct 08, 2012 | Whirlpool LGQ9858P Gas Dryer

    1 Answer

    Hoover VHW654D-80 not heating


    see the causes, and proceed. God bless you
    f your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.
    Heating Element

    It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

    hermal Fuse


    Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
    Thermostat

    If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

    Timer motor


    A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.
    9_23_2012_4_19_11_am.gif

    Sep 22, 2012 | Washing Machines

    1 Answer

    I have a whirlpool dryer that won't heat. I removed the heating element and there were no breaks in the coils. I had the thermal cutoff tested and it was bad so I replaced it as well as the part


    check the little 1"long x 1/4" wide white plastic fuse located on the dryer blower housing in the lower rear area,its held in place with 1 hex head screw,if its open dryer wont heat

    Mar 11, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

    1 Answer

    Maytag dryer heating element won't come on


    you should have a nominal 240 volts between the 2 heating element connections

    Feb 07, 2012 | Dryers

    1 Answer

    My roper dryer won't start unless i find just the


    Hi jodiew0228...
    Sounds like you have two problems
    1...Bad timer...replace your timer
    2...Something wrong in the heating circuit...
    ***************************************************
    Here are a few things to check:
    ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
    Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
    Check your Wiring
    Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
    Check the Door Switch
    If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
    Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
    Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
    You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
    If the heating coil is ok, then:
    You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
    If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
    If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
    then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
    To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
    DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
    Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
    If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
    You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
    A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
    Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
    If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
    For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
    davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
    Please take time to rate me thumbs up

    Sep 16, 2011 | Roper Dryers

    1 Answer

    My dryer won't heat and the timer won't advance. I already replaced the thermostat but that didn't fix the problem


    Hi christarn1

    Here are a few things to check:
    ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
    Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
    Check your Wiring
    Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
    Check the Door Switch
    If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
    Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
    Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
    You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
    If the heating coil is ok, then:
    You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
    If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
    If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
    then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
    To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
    DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
    Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
    If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
    You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
    A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
    Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
    If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
    For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
    davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
    Please take time to rate me thumbs up

    Sep 14, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

    1 Answer

    Replaced heating element,2 relays & still no heat. Checked 220. ok if the door switch makes the dryer run, could it still be the door switch that won't let it heat?


    Hi margorothehis..
    Yes, it is possible the door switch is faulty not allowing it to heat.
    I will send you my generic fix, you have already checked some of these,you might have missed one.
    Please rate me
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Here are a few things to check:
    ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
    Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
    Check your Wiring
    Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
    Check the Door Switch
    If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
    Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
    Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
    You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
    If the heating coil is ok, then:
    You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
    If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
    If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
    then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
    To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
    DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
    Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
    If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
    You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
    A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
    Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
    If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
    For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
    davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
    Please take time to rate me

    Sep 03, 2011 | Dryers

    1 Answer

    Trying to repair my maytag mde4000ayw dryer. This is the 3rd time in 5 years that the dryer has stopped heating. The last 2 times, we ordered and put on a new heating element and it worked. This time, we...


    Hi
    Here are a few things to check:
    ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
    Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
    Check your Wiring
    Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
    Check the Door Switch
    If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
    Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
    Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
    You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
    If the heating coil is ok, then:
    You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
    If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
    If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
    then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
    To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
    DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
    Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
    If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it.
    Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
    If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
    Please take time to rate me

    Jul 28, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

    1 Answer

    Our 8 year old kenmore dryer won't do anything when you press the start button. We don't hear even a hum. It worked one day and then just wouldn't start the next day. We checked the fuse box...


    Here is a good link for basic troubleshooting... But 10 to one the culprit is a thermal fuse or thermal cut off.... they are usually pretty cheap and easy to replace....

    http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

    One final note on these: if you find your thermal fuse\cut off (or element) open, before replacing it, be sure to check the airflow out your dryer's vent system. Even though these devices do 'wear out' with age, poor airflow's the #1 cause of failure of these devices, and if your vent's partially clogged, a new thermal won't last very long, but will do its job again, and leave you 'cold' (a new element won't last long if the vent's clogged, either).

    More info and pics:

    http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYthermalfuses.htm

    Jun 16, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

    1 Answer

    Dryer won,t heat, put in new element and still won,t heat.


    check you thermal fuse for continuity if none change it and the high-imit safety shut-off fuse(closest to heat element)

    Apr 08, 2009 | Dryers

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