Question about Fujitsu Siemens Business Line E18-1 18.1" LCD Monitor
Hi all, I have this monitor just over a year, when it decided to go faulty. when u power up the screen comes on then shuts off. you can turn it off and back on and the screen will come back for about 5 seconds and goes blank again..the led light stays green as if its working away ok. Anybody come across this before? any ideas where to look ? thanks
Please excuse me posting this as a 'solution', which I rather think demands one knows what was wrong in the first place! Anyhow, I have fixed my problem with this monitor. As previously mentioned cutting JP13 didn't restore the blank display. BTW: JP13 is on the component side of the first power supply printed circuit board (PCB), its under the steel plate in the back of the monitor case, remove both plate and board mounting screws to get at it. But responding to someones previous suggestion, I went about replacing all electrolytic capacitors (caps) on this board, did this rather than just replace C10/C11 as its a bit of a fiddle to open/reclose the monitor case and I'd already done it twice by this stage and wanted to limit possible damage to cables/connectors etc by repeated dismantling of case. ANYHOW! result is that monitor is fixed (so far!), had it on soak for a week and am using it right now, so hopefully it will stay that way. Its fairly easy job to do if you have some PCB soldering experience, you'll need a small iron and a 'solder remover/******' (when removing old caps). Recommend you look at www.badcaps.net/forum for info on the capacitor values you'll need. I used recommended good quality capacitors - Nichicon and Panasonic. If anyone is interested I'll post the list of values I used but its pretty easy to extract the old caps and get the values from them. Hope this is of help, regards Phil
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
This is most probably cause by one or more Faulty Electrolytic Capacitors, I find these are the MOST commonest form of "Fault" in these LCD's TFT's units. I ususally simply replace "On Spec" all High Value Electros, In the Power Supply Section, in fact ALL Electro's are suspect and often I often simply just "Shotgun it" and replace 'em all. Usually fixes all problems. Always use High Temperature Caps. The "Faulty" ones are usually misformed, domed, or split.. but sometimes there is NO external evidence.
Posted on Jul 24, 2007
Cut J13 as suggested in the first reply, and "touch wood" monitor seems to be working again!!!
Don't know of any long term effects cuting J13 will have on the monitor, but as it cost me nothing and it wasn't working before the "fix" . I have lost nothing other than the time it took me to open the case and cut J13 and put it back together again.....
Many thanks to Drew!
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
Posted on Aug 13, 2008
I've read thru a lot of info. The fact that the monitor usually works if one side of the lamps (i.e. inverters) is deconnected, points to the inverter circuit replace c10 and c11. It cured it for me.
I did replace some bulbous caps in the PS part too, but that didn't work.
read the suggestions in "badcaps forum"
Posted on Jul 16, 2008
If you are still watching. As far as I can determine (no circuit diagram) the problem is rotten design. Suspect a generic fault. Don?t think there is component failure, just spec drift. Seems like imbalance in the tubes is detected and kills the backlight. Dumb. It could be the sense transformers for that function gone weird, but disabling the circuit cures. Serious imbalance can also kill the backlight via the main current monitoring circuit but it would have to be way off. Simply clip JP13 on the underside of the top board and you will probably have a working display. Worked for me. BTW, to detach the front bezel, remove the four screws at the bottom and thump the bezel upwards. Best Drew
Posted on Aug 29, 2007
I pulled an identical monitor out of a skip last week, unless by some amazing coincidence it is the same one. So identical in fact that it has an identical fault. Problem is not (in this instance) with the capacitors. I think I know which component it is, just trying to determine what it is at the moment as the smd number doesn?t come up on any lists. Will probably have to trace and draw a part of the circuit before I can work out if it is a FET, bipolar etc. Just a problem with the backlight BTW. Standard TL494 pwm but the error circuitry is a bit odd. So don?t throw it out yet and I?ll be back soon hopefully. Best Drew
Posted on Aug 27, 2007
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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