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My behringer EP 2500 power amp channel 2 clip light stays on and the heat sink gets very hot

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I have a Behringer PMP

There are NO "yellow" overload LED's period. The clip or overload RED LED's are just above the PFL buttons for selecting a solo channel. There are "yellow" signal received lights (level set) up near the trim controls. In normal operation these will light when signal is received. Here is schematic for the PMP5000 which is really identical for the 6000.
http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_europower-p0569_hca2400_sps1000_dpx_pmp-1280s_5000_sch.pdf/download.html This has part of the DSP and PS and the PA circuits.
Scroll down to "get manual" and click on it to download. Ignore other download links on the page.
Try turning off the Phantom power if it might be on... If that stops the hum, something is the matter with the bypasses feeding Phantom power to those channels... Possible problem might be shorting of one of the coupling caps at the preamp input. The PMH5000 drawings are more accurate at the input circuits. You will note that the level set LED's are the yellows, and the clip/PFL LED's are the red ones. I suspect that RF bypass caps such as C110 or C121 (example typical for channel one) might be shorted. This makes noise on the Phantom power line unbalanced and will get into the channel where one of these caps is shorted. Do a test: Plug a shorting jack that shorts the tip to the sleeve intot he inssert for the channel. With the LOW CUT button up, observe is the level set LED for that channel dims or goes out. If it does, then I supect you have a shorted RF bypass cap at the input..The next test involves driving a KNOWN balanced signal into the XLR jack and using a TRS in tthe inout 1/4 inch, test the levels with an oscilloscope to verify the hot and the return have equal amplitudes. I they don't, congratualtions you have to tear the main board out... lots of knobs and screws to access the inout circuits and verifuy the cause... it could ALSO be a bad transistor in the inout pair, etc...

Posted on Sep 25, 2011

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How to set onboard fx processor


Which clip light on what and what mics are you using?
The small room settings are from 10 so just turn the know to the setting you require and press it, this should set it.

The stadard way of setting up mics is to set the channel gain so the channel clip light just blinks occasionally when you are making the maximum sound you can into the mic.

For effects repeat this process using the aux send FX for each channel you want fx on (turn the rest to 0) and doing a balancing act between these and the aux send fx master so you can only just get the FX clip light blinking occasionally.

Next set your gain/attenuators on the amp(s) so its clip warning can just trigger when you are giving it 0db when you are playing the loudest you ever will.

A mic fading away could be the battery dying (in which case try using phantom power) or if they're radio replace the batteries before each service. If they're wired dynamic mics then it is possible there's some protection circuit somewhere that's reacting to the constant clipping and backing off the amp.

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1 Answer

My Behringer 2500 wat pa amp keeps getting hot and cutting off


Step 1:

Overheating is typically caused by poor ventilation. The best thing is to make sure that you --

Step 2:

have plenty of space ALL-AROUND the amp

Step 3:

Fan(s) are working correctly (should always be on).

Step 4:

Boards are clean -- may require opening up housing and spraying with compressed air.

Step 5:

Be sure that the speakers you're pushing are acceptable to amp's output.

Step 6:

If still overheating, may require service.

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The word "dissapator is unclear what you mean. If it is a "heat sink" there are FIVE heat sinks on the supply. By not specifying which one we are at a loss to help you.

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1 Answer

I'm repairing the power supply. I replaced T3,T4,Ic1,D24. but the disipator gets hot when I try to disconect a bulb I conected it in series at the input cord, and then connected back with out the...


Voltage readings are normal. I don't know what you mean by dissapator? There are five separate heat sinks on the board. Which is heating? Is this with the load connected? If no load is connected none of the heat sinks should get hot. In regular operation with the fan running they may get warm. If no load and the big one is heating, then one or more of the three terminal regualtors has shorted. If the one with the big diodes near the 70 volt caps is heating, look for shorted surface mounted caps on the bottom of the board near the 70 volt connectors. If the heat sinks with the IGBT switchers are heating, look for a bad gate speedup surface mounted diode. It is unlikely the input diodee heatsink is heating.

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There are NO "yellow" overload LED's period. The clip or overload RED LED's are just above the PFL buttons for selecting a solo channel. There are "yellow" signal received lights (level set) up near the trim controls. In normal operation these will light when signal is received. Here is schematic for the PMP5000 which is really identical for the 6000.
http://elektrotanya.com/behringer_europower-p0569_hca2400_sps1000_dpx_pmp-1280s_5000_sch.pdf/download.html This has part of the DSP and PS and the PA circuits.
Scroll down to "get manual" and click on it to download. Ignore other download links on the page.
Try turning off the Phantom power if it might be on... If that stops the hum, something is the matter with the bypasses feeding Phantom power to those channels... Possible problem might be shorting of one of the coupling caps at the preamp input. The PMH5000 drawings are more accurate at the input circuits. You will note that the level set LED's are the yellows, and the clip/PFL LED's are the red ones. I suspect that RF bypass caps such as C110 or C121 (example typical for channel one) might be shorted. This makes noise on the Phantom power line unbalanced and will get into the channel where one of these caps is shorted. Do a test: Plug a shorting jack that shorts the tip to the sleeve intot he inssert for the channel. With the LOW CUT button up, observe is the level set LED for that channel dims or goes out. If it does, then I supect you have a shorted RF bypass cap at the input..The next test involves driving a KNOWN balanced signal into the XLR jack and using a TRS in tthe inout 1/4 inch, test the levels with an oscilloscope to verify the hot and the return have equal amplitudes. I they don't, congratualtions you have to tear the main board out... lots of knobs and screws to access the inout circuits and verifuy the cause... it could ALSO be a bad transistor in the inout pair, etc...

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1 Answer

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MAKE SURE the cables you plug into 1/4 inch mains are TRS plugs, and not mono cables (TS). The main output 1/4 inch jacks are TRS balanced outputs and if you plug mono (TS) cables that shorts out the ring connector reducing the power by 6 Db. USE ONLY TRS balanced cables for interconnects !!!! Also read my tip on Fixya regarding PMP mixers. If you use 1/4 inch SPEAKER cables or adapters, if you short the SLEEVE of channel A output to ground you can pop the channel A amp. The TIP of channel B is the hot BUT the SLEEVE of channel A is the HOT. The ttip I posted explains why this is and it isn't mention in the Behringer documentation.

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1 Answer

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