During dark scenes the panel will brighten depending on what images appear. This is incredibly annoying and I have not been able to illiminate it. Panasonic tells me this is normal and all tvs do this, which is not true, please help. And dont tell me to turn off the C.A.T.S feature as this does nothing.
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Sometimes a technician can make adjustments to the y-sus and z-sus boards on the panel. If that doesn't work then its either replace those boards along with the main driver board or replace the panel. Either way this requires a technician to look at the TV.
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Recompose The Photo
This is probably the simplest solution. When taking a photo of a scene with very bright and very dark parts, move your camera to eliminate one of the extremes. In the case of the band, I would have either closed the curtains for the shot, or recomposed completely and photographed from the window looking at the band, and the crowd behind.
Use Exposure Lock
If you can't recompose the photograph, instead tell the camera what part of the image you would like to see. The rest of the photo will be either over or under exposed (too bright or too dark) but at least you will see your subject. You can dothis by placing the center of the image at your subject; half depressing the shutter to lock the focus and exposure; move the camera to re-compose the image; and fully depressing the shutter.
In the band image, the camera chose to correctly expose the scene outside, but even if the band member had been correctly exposed, the window would have ended up being over exposed and you would just have seen white.
Some cameras have an option called 'spot metering' to set the part of the image you'd like to be correctly exposed. If your camera has this setting, enable it before using the technique above.
Use Fill In Flash
If your scene has a sunny background, but your subject is in the shade (or has a hat on), turn on the flash (as I explained way back in tip number 9 - Using Flash During The Day). I know it seems wrong but it really does work! By using the flash, your subject will look as bright as the background. This would have worked well for the child shot above.
High Dynamic Range Imaging
This technique is not for the faintof hearted. It requires a subject that does not move; a good camera with the capability to set the exposure and output RAW images. A tripod and image editing software like Photoshop CS3 are also needed.
High Dynamic Range Imaging (or HDR for short) is a technique for placing both very dark and very light areas in the same photo. It requires you to take a number of photographs of thesame scene - each with a different exposure. First take the shot using the camera's recommended settings. Then, in manual mode and keeping the aperture at the same value as the first shot, take a sequence of shots - each shot having a different shutter speed (above and below the original). You'll have 5-9 shots of the same scene all in different exposures.
Merging the three images to the left creates the HDR image below. Thanks to Photomatix for the images.
Now import these into your favorite paint program. I use Photoshop, but you can as easily use a cheaper program designed specifically for HDR photos like Photomatix. Follow the HDR directions and the paint program will merge these images into one great looking shot!
Use a Filter
If your scene is of a brightsky and a dark ground (for instance at sunset, or on a cloudy day), you can use a graduated neutral density filter. This filter cuts out someof the light from one part of the photo (the sky). This will correctly expose the ground and the sky without needing to use HDR. These filterscan be complex to setup, so I don't usually recommend them for beginners.
Fix The Original Photo in an Image Editing Program
Finally, if you can't take another shot at the same location, you can fix the original image by changing the levels using a paint program. This works best when your subject is darker than the rest of the photo (because cameras lose detail in over-bright areas). I've brightened the band member in the top image using this technique and while it looks okay in thissmall shot, this technique can tend to amplify any noise in the image. The darker the subject, the harder time you will have fixing the image.
I discuss exactly how to use this technique in lesson 2 of my free Image Editing Secrets course. I have a tutorial for Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Paint Shop Pro and the free Google Picassa.
- See more at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/140/6-ways-to-fix-too-bright-and-too-dark-photos/#sthash.58eENOTt.dpuf
Make sure your contrast isn't set too high. Most ghosting is caused by either contrast, brightness or tint issues. Try adjusting these settings. Also check if there is a Dynamic contrast setting for your TV as well as this can cause ghosting also.
b> Windows Media Player is a dynamic media player that comes included with Windows operating system.
According to the Microsoft website, Windows Media Player 12 plays nearly every video format, including 3GP, AAC, AVCHD, MPEG-4, WMV, WMA, and most AVI, DivX, MOV, and Xvid. So, before you begin, you may want to be sure you have the most up-to-date version.
Open the file in Windows Media Player. If it is not the default player on videos, simply right-click on the file, select "Open With" and choose Windows Media Player. Pause the video on a clear frame. Windows Media Player will begin playing the video automatically, so you just need to pause it on a frame that you think you will be able to use as a template for the rest of the movie. Access the Now Playing menu (this is in the upper left-hand corner). Click on it to pull down more options. Select "Video Settings" from the Enhancements submenu. This will open up a small panel at the bottom of the window with various image adjustment meters. Slide the "Brightness" control a little to the left to brighten the image. The image will stay the same until you press "Play," at which point you can view the effects of the new settings. Repeat Step 5 until you find the right brightness. Close the Video Settings menu by pressing the red "X" in the upper right-hand corner of the menu screen. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/products/features/windows-media-player-12 b> Brightening the video may give the image a bit of a "washed out" look. Remedy this by tinkering with some of the other settings in the menu. Increasing the Saturation often helps with this problem.
Your CRT's getting old. Plus dust on lenses don't help much. You have to open front frill (below screen) and back of the TV. Clean up lenses using dry paper towels, do not wet. In front of the TV after grill remove center cover and locate "black box" that have 6 potentiometers on it that looks like plastic adjustment screws for philips #2 screwdriver slots. 3 of them should read "Focus" These you don't touch. Another 3 reads "Screen". Put some still image on your screen (like paused DVD movie frame). Carefully add brightness in all 3 colors trying to avoid horizontal lines appearance. If lines show up, just turn it back a little. Try to keep color balance looking at the picture. This procedure will brighten up image but further reduce CRT's life.
In case that you posted wrong model here and you have DLP Projection TV - just replace the lamp.
There should be a setting in the menu of the TV to turn off the auto dim feature (used for adjusting the brightness of the picture depending on ambient room lighting) I don't have a Sony LCD here with me to walk you through the menu settings, but I am certain it is there somewhere. (Chased this issue for the wife who had the same displeasure you're having)
Metering has gone on the .Can you set the camera to Aperture priority or speed priority?Set to either permanently if you cane then you should get a standard exposure.
The inside shots may appear dark, but all the information is there and a treak in an image editor will brighten them up.
Cant do the same for too bright images though if they burnout then that's it.
a repair is not likely
got a birthday any time soon
Got some one that luvs you enough to buy you the next one.?