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Fills the tub but won't agitate. Smell of burning rubber.

I replaced the pump and a little brown plastic spacer thing fell out the bottom. Since then it will fill, but then it stops and I can hear the click whirr then nothing but the smell of burning wires or something. Immediately it won't work, but if I wait until later, I can put on the spin cycle or the fill cycle and it will work. Did I break it when that thing fell out, or is it off kilter or something? I have gotten it to do every cycle, but it seems to not like the moving on stage between cycles.

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More than likely other damage was done - like getting the circuit board - or the motor controller board wet.

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Posted on Sep 10, 2010


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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OK, this model has a known issue with a bad pump design. The bearing on the pump goes bad and will lock up. The burning smell is the belt trying to turn the pump. Look under the unit and see if you see rubber residue at the pump. Here is the pump to order. To replace the pump, tilt the unit back and remove the belt. Remove the back lower left side access panel. Remove the 2 hoses, then the 3 bolts that hold the pump down. Replace in reverse order. The pump is a new design it looks completely different but will last you the life of the unit.

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Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning "rubber" smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer
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The pin is just an alignment pin used during assembly at the factory. You need not worry about it. However the water leaking is a separate issue. The leak could be the pump leaking. But I suspect since that pin was knocked out of it's plastic holder during your move, the suspension traveled enough to damage the hose going from the bottom of the tub to the pump. Come of those hoses were a harder (read cheaper) corrugated plastic instead of rubber. It's an easy fix and I replace those plastic hoses with a rubber one.

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If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
  • Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it. Replace if deemed necessary.
  • Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the household plumbing. Tighten it or replace it as necessary..
  • Main tub seal: It is located between the transmission and the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  • Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
  • Outer tub: The outer tub can rust, split, or be punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for deatils.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
  1. Air-gap device: It is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you have to replace it.
  2. The tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
  3. Inlet spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

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Hi Karen,
It is not normal to smell a burning smell after a new coupler install. If the pump is not held on the motor with two clamps then it will raise off of the motor and strip the pump. This would cause the burning smell and also cause you to need a new pump. Before you use it again install the second pump clamp. If you cant find it let me know and we can ship you one over. Contact us anytime m-f 9-5. (865)945-3808
Anderson Appliance Parts and Service
Michael Anderson (Owner)

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