Fills the tub but won't agitate. Smell of burning rubber.
I replaced the pump and a little brown plastic spacer thing fell out the bottom. Since then it will fill, but then it stops and I can hear the click whirr then nothing but the smell of burning wires or something. Immediately it won't work, but if I wait until later, I can put on the spin cycle or the fill cycle and it will work. Did I break it when that thing fell out, or is it off kilter or something? I have gotten it to do every cycle, but it seems to not like the moving on stage between cycles.
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OK, this model has a known issue with a bad pump design. The bearing on the pump goes bad and will lock up. The burning smell is the belt trying to turn the pump. Look under the unit and see if you see rubber residue at the pump. Here is the pump to order. To replace the pump, tilt the unit back and remove the belt. Remove the back lower left side access panel. Remove the 2 hoses, then the 3 bolts that hold the pump down. Replace in reverse order. The pump is a new design it looks completely different but will last you the life of the unit.
Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning "rubber" smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer. The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer To replace the belt carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins, remove 2 Phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel, slightly lift upward on panel to release. Now remove old broken belt, push new belt beneath large tub pulley and put belt on small motor pulley. After this push back belt tension /idler arm, start belt on large tub pulley, turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on, release tension on idler arm. Replace front panel and lower top. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.
The pin is just an alignment pin used during assembly at the factory. You need not worry about it. However the water leaking is a separate issue. The leak could be the pump leaking. But I suspect since that pin was knocked out of it's plastic holder during your move, the suspension traveled enough to damage the hose going from the bottom of the tub to the pump. Come of those hoses were a harder (read cheaper) corrugated plastic instead of rubber. It's an easy fix and I replace those plastic hoses with a rubber one.
The burning smell is coming from the burned out motor windings. The terrible internal sound is coming from a worn out bearing or friction caused by the motor rotor scraping the stator. These caused the motor windings to burn. Replace the motor then.
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Water inlet valve: If water drips even when the
washer is off,check the water inlet valve. It is located inside the
washer at the back of the unit. The fill hoses are attached to it.
Replace if deemed necessary.
Water fill hoses: Check the water hoses from the
household plumbing. Tighten it or replace
it as necessary..
tub seal: It is located between the
the outer tub. To see the leak, fill the machine with water with small
amount of detergent then open up the machine's main access panel.. The
at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. The seal is
difficult to replace and you probably should call a qualified appliance
Pump: You can spot the leak when the tub is
full of water if the pump leaks. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses
attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. Replace it as necessary if it leaks.
tub: The outer tub can rust,
split, or be
punctured.You may have to replace the entire tub but its not economical
repair to do. Consult a qualified technician for deatils.
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
device: It is a small device found on most washers that
prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water
supply. It is located either mid-way along or at the end of the black
rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. It is usually made of
translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or
cracks, you have to replace it.
tube: It is a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and
either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can
cause a leak.
spout: It is a plastic spout found on most washers near the top of the main
clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or
breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
It is not normal to smell a burning smell after a new coupler install. If the pump is not held on the motor with two clamps then it will raise off of the motor and strip the pump. This would cause the burning smell and also cause you to need a new pump. Before you use it again install the second pump clamp. If you cant find it let me know and we can ship you one over. Contact us anytime m-f 9-5. (865)945-3808
Anderson Appliance Parts and Service
Michael Anderson (Owner)
check the rubber piece of the coupling and make sure it is a little loose (moves a little), if the plastic pieces are not far enough onto the motor shaft and transmission shaft then the coupling will be pinched and will make a burnt rubber smell.