Question about Broan-NuTone Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.
If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.
One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.
The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.
Posted on Apr 05, 2008
The FR Series fans from Fantech are glued closed to prevent air leakage. Its better to replace the fan than to try and fix it. The cheapest place to buy a Fantech fan is at http:///www.hvacquick.com as they buy direct from Fantech.
Alos the FR Series fan comes with a 5 Year Manufactures warranty.
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
Good luck. I would myself try to find a general stove schematic and work out how different it is. There may be a few different rated thermostats and elements, but the bulk of the wiring pattern will be similar.
It may have to come a bit of trial and error as well.
(also, they disassembled the wiring to clean it? that's thorough!!)
Hope this helps, let me know.
Posted on May 09, 2009
I'm not sure what your question is. Are you trying to find out why only one burner works? The top burners are simple and if you can work on it I can tell you how and what makes it works. The burners are as most ele. things. You have a line in, a switch, a load and a ground. The switch has 220v coming in. When you push a button it allows ele from the line to go to the element which is the load. Which button you push dictates the amount of ele that is allowed to go to the load. It should have a OFF, LOW, MEDIUM and a HIGH. If you check the wires between the switch and the element after you push the HIGH, you should show 220v. If not, you have a bad switch. I hope this helps like I stated, I'm not sure what your question is.
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Posted on Aug 27, 2009
Testimonial: "I'll try it. I'm trying to get the other three burners to work!! I may post again to ask more specific questions later.."
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