Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines

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Whirlpool washer (WFW9400SW00) - Washer turns on, I can select a cycle, but no water comes in and there's a grinding noise. I receive no error message. Water supply is good.

The door locks. The minutes pass on the display. I tried different cycles, same thing.

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 9,472 Answers

You will need to replace the water inlet valve. Here is the part to order.
To replace the valve, remove the top to access the valve.

Posted on Dec 05, 2012

  • Mandy R Dec 12, 2012

    The water inlet valve was sticking and that's what caused the noise. We gave it a tap and it started working again. I was able to do a couple loads and now it's sticking again. Do you know why it might be sticking? Should we just replace it? We have a stacker and have the dryer on top, not sure if this is why it's catching.

  • Richard Roth
    Richard Roth Dec 13, 2012

    OK, you will need to replace the water inlet valve. You have minerial buildup on the solenoids of the valve that causes them to stick and they will eventually fail. Here is the part to order.http://bit.ly/UUVYqA

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: my whirlpool washer (Ultimate care

If the washer fills, but won't spin or drain, you may have a defective lid switch. This is a very common problem and a very common symptom.

Let me guess: The washer fills, agitates, but when it gets to the spin cycle it just stops. On some models the washer will fill and then shut off. Am I explaining your symptoms correctly?

If so, this what you need to do:

Open and close the washer lid and listen for a distinctive "clicking" noise. The contacts on the switch should close when the lid is shut, allowing the washer timer to run. This is a designed safety feature that prevents the washer from agitating or spinning with the lid open (don't need to lose any fingers). If you don't hear the switch, it may have come loose, or has broken.
Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the tub rim. There will be a slot where the lid strike pushes down on the lid switch. Make sure the lid strike (small plastic piece) is still present on the lid. This can prevent the washer from working as well and make it seem like a huge problem.
On some models the lid switch is located near the left-hand lid hinge under the washer casing. A small rod on the lid hinge activates the switch contacts.

If you determine the need to replace the switch, follow these steps:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. And, still there are some of the older models that have screws holding the console in place from the back. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in on the side of the tub opening and a ground wire attached to the casing. Remove the connector plug, by pushing in on the release tabs on either side and pushing it down through the opening in the washer casing. The wire harness will be held in place by clips under the washer rim. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.

Good Luck.

Posted on Feb 27, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: KHWS01PWH0 Front Loading Automatic Washer Leaking

out the bottom of door?? no through the bottom panel???. check the rubber door seal for rips or tears pull it back and look around entire circumference. smalll rip in very front of seal where door should close against will cause leak for sure

Posted on Mar 07, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool washer fills up; makes LOUD whine/click metal noise

sounds as if you have a bad mootor coupling, part number 285753, easy enough part to change, easier to search on the you tube site for whirlpool motor coupling repair, fo rthe video, then try to explain procedure, but definalty easy enough repair for home owner

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Cabrio Washer Error message code F1

Whirlpool did a recall on this problem here is there number try this first. Whirlpool 1-800-253-1301
On a number of ranges this can mean a number of things, the most common being a failed ERC(EOC, Clock assembly)or a faulty touchpad. Firstly if you are using a recent Maytag range it may pay to test the oven sensor as described above as this may cause an F1 error if faulty (may apply to some other ranges as well) this is not a common cause but is worth discounting. To check the ERC and touchpad

  1. Disconnect the power
  2. Gain access to the back of the ERC
  3. Disconnect the ribbon cable that connects the ERC to the touchpad
  4. Check nothing will short when power is reconnected
  5. reconnect the power and switch on
  6. Watch for F1 and listen for the beep
  7. If you get the F1 and the beep this means the fault is with the ERC and it will need replacing
  8. If after 30 mins you do not see the F1 error and hear the beep, replace the touchpad

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Sport Washer Does Not Work, Door Lock is stuck

have you checked the belt to see if it came off or maybe broke off,if its not the belt then maybe the motor whent bad or needs reset,that just some of the possibilitys you might want to check,some motors have a reset butten on thim

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

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