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Adjusting lower thread tension on a babylock 1550

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Difficulty adjusting tension to avoid bobbin looping

it sounds like your bobbin tension is too tight. to adjust bobbin tension, remove bobbin case (remove needle plate first) and adjust bobbin tension screw on side of case until bobbin thread has a slight resistance as you pull it through the bobbin case.

this will be trial and error until you get best result. you should always try and match top and bottom threads. if the top thread is quite thick you may have continue to increase needle thread tension until balanced.

scott

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: Tension

I answered this a couple days ago but don't know if it went through. I can sew through 6 or more layers of denim with my 226, no problems at all. In my 30 years in the upholstery business I never had a problem sewing leather, vinyl, canvas or multi-layers of fabric. The 226 Consew, the 111W and 211w Singers I had presented zero problems with heavy fabrics - and I don't consider vinyl "heavy".

You need to first of all check threading. If the machine's threaded wrong you're break thread. Also you need to oil under the bobbin case and the bobbin hook and the rest of the parts as well.
Then, loosen thread tension on top by turning the knurled knob that's on the spring that's holding the tension discs. Also loosen bottom tension on the bobbin case by turning the small, left-most screw on the outside of the bobbin case counter-clockwise. Do both with the presser foot down. Pull the thread(s) out and feel the tension. You should be able to pull the threads out with some little effort. Tighten both a little at a time until you get some tension. Run a couple seams and check where the threads meet in the fabric. They should meet in the center. Also check stitch length. If you're using 92 thread (is should be left twist), you should run the machine at about 6 - 7 stitches/inch. I'm running my machine at 5 - 5 1/2 with #69 nylon bonded, and 6 - 6 1/2 with #11 mono.
One more thing; if tension's too loose at the bobbin or top, the machine will jam in the bobbin and thread will break.
Go to www.consew.com and download a pdf owner's manual for free. You need to click on the 224. That machine, the 225 and 226 are the same.

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: The lower (bobbin) thread on my brand new Brother tangles

Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Specific detail on bobbin case adjustment (with picture) near halfway down reply, the remainder will help you achieve a balance of top and bottom tensions.

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks

Best Wishes
Martyn
Bargain Box in Australia

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

  • 1116 Answers

SOURCE: I get loops on top and/or bottom of fabric during

Top tension back to 4 and leave the bobbin tension as is.

Make sure you have a new needle for the type of fabric being sewn installed with the flat side to the back of the machine. A bent needle can sometimes go unnoticed.

Always thread the machine with the presser foot up and this will give proper tension to the stitch.

Check the manual to be sure you are threading correctly (always with the presser foot up) and that the bobbin thread is feeding in the correct direction from the bobbin spool and through the guides.

Take hold of the thread at the needle as you lower and raise the needle to pull up the bobbin thread. Take both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back of the machine.



Posted on Mar 11, 2010

SOURCE: My Necchi 4595 has never really worked

I also own 2 necchi sewing machines, my mechanical is a 4595,,
lower thread tension
to test the bobbin tension, remove the bobbin case & bobbin & hold it by suspending it byb the thread, **** it once or twice, if the tension is correct, the thread will unwind by about an inch or two.
if the tension is too tight, it does not unwind at all, if the tension is too loose, it will drop too much.
to adjust the tension,, left is loosen & to the right tighten

thread breaks
rethread the machine making sure to get all thread guides
top thread tension usually 3 or 4
replace needle- make sure the needle is inserted correctly
some needles don't work with some thread, here's a tip

Cut 6-8 inch piece of thread of the spool you are going to use for your project
Take the needle you are going to use for the project
& insert the thread thru the eye of the needle
& lift one end of the thread to a 45 degree angle
& if the needle is the right size for the thread it will slide down the thread
But if the needle hangs on the thread you need one size larger needle for the thread

Posted on Nov 17, 2010

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1 Answer

How do you use the buttonhole foot on a babylock companion 1550


1.Mark position and length of buttonhole on fabric.
2.Set button on the base and slide base forward to secure button.
* If button does not fit on the base, adjust slide on base to diameter of button plus thickness of button.
a= Length of button + thickness
3.Pass upper thread through the hole of buttonhole foot and attach buttonhole foot to machine.
Bring upper and bobbin threads to the left under foot.
4.Position fabric under presser foot so that the center line mark is in the center of the needle opening in the buttonhole foot. With the main part of the foot pushed to the back, lower the presser foot lever.
5.Lower the buttonhole foot lever so it is positioned behind the raised finger on the foot (see step 5 illustration). a
Note:Machine will not start to sew if buttonhole lever is not lowered properly or buttonhole foot is not positioned correctly.
Note:If machine does not reset for second buttonhole, be sure the presser foot raised finger is pressed against the lever.
6.Hold upper thread lightly and start the machine.
Ref. :babylock.com/downloads/manuals/

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My Babylock sewing machine has the lower thread to tight and the upper thread looks great. how do I fix that


You may need to tighten the bobbin tension. Sometimes, if you slightly tighten the upper tension, it will bring the bobbin thread up further into the fabric.

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Where does the tension spri ng go on my babylock 1550 bobbin winder


It may be worthwhile to purchase a new bobbin case for your machine. Trying to re-attach the spring will most likely cause the spring tension to change making it difficult to get the tension correct. Bobbin cases do wear out and really are not all that expensive to purchase. A lot of sewists keep more than one bobbin case on hand so they can adjust a specific case to accommodate the tension for specific thread weights.

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The owner's manual provides instructions for adjusting the tension by manipulating the upper tension to either tighten or loosen the upper thread:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjo876NhNjJAhXhqYMKHQyGABEQFgggMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fbabylock.com%2Fftp%2Fwhitepapers%2FEllurePlus_BLR3_InstRefGuide.pdf&usg=AFQjCNFjueCqjBE7C9yxi3qeIhkkLrvomg&cad=rja

However, here is a discussion about adjusting bobbin tension:

http://www.embroideryforum.com/forums/showthread.php/13579-Babylock-Embroidery-Machine

Be very careful adjusting the bobbin tension as it is very easy to over-adjust.

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How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

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