I have just moved to a new house. I have plumbed my washing machine into the existing pipe work that was left for I presume a washing machine. I turned it on and all seemed well until it was time to drain the the water, it made a sort of gurgling sound). Then it started beeping and flashing err20 (I think it was). So I looked up in the manual and it said that the outlet house may be blocked or bent. I checked it definitely wasn't bent.
The thing with my washing machine is that there is no obvious way to remove the hose as it is part of the back of the machine. There is no back cover to remove.
So can anyone please tell me how to unblock the outlet hose?
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Re: Err20 No drainage
Remove the hose from the outlet and lay it as flat as poss into a bowl. fill the machine up and see how much water starts to run out. if there is a lot then there may be a blocked outlet instead. the way to attempt to clear a waste hose out without removing it is to buy a flexi unblocker (like a bendywound wire) from a handyman shop and ram it up the hose. tone.
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If you are thinking of changing or upgrading your old washing machine, there is a one thing that you need to consider. The plumbing that takes the water away may have been okay for your old washer, but it may not work well for a new washing machine. Many houses have been built with 1-1/4” or 1-1/2” drain standpipes for washing machines. While these pipes were entirely okay for the washing machines that they were to serve, they are no longer okay for many of the new washing machines of today.
The new front load and many of the new top load washers are now using a separate pump for removing the water from the washing machine. This is great for getting the water out faster, but the water goes out so fast that the piping is no big enough to handle the volume of water that is being pumped.
For many of the new washers you need to have a 2" standpipe and trap... the older 1-1/2" standpipes and traps will not handle the higher volume of the new pumps. Because of this, you will have to also upgrade your plumbing to make sure that your new washer will not flood you out when it discharges the water from the machine.
The plumbing is often easily accessible, but in some cases it is not that easy. When possible change the plumbing from the main trunk line to the washer with a new 2” trap and pipe. If a total change is not possible, then get the pipe as big as possible as close as possible to the trunk line. This will give you at least less resistance to water flow and give a reserve space for the water to go to. The most important part is the trap as this creates the most restriction to the flow of the water. Also getting the pipe as high as possible where it dumps in at, will help, but check on the maximum height limitations of your washing machine. If you get the pipe too high the washer will not be able to pump the water high enough to get it over the top and into the pipe, creating yet another problem for you.
By checking all this out before you purchase that new washing machine, you can save yourself a lot of headaches later.
if its just not working on spin cycle, check the door safety switch, if its faulty the machine won't drain or spin,, you can jumper the wires that go to the switch , and set it for spin to see if thats the problem,
Whirlpool now own Maytag and with a W/P top load machine there is an adaptor which reduces the diameter of the drain hose. Not knowing the diameters of your drain hose, or the plumbing of your house, I can't say for sure that this is a remedy. However it's worth trying. Contact a Whirlpool stockist and see if the adaptor is the correct size for your new Maytag. Or you may be able to drain the new machine into a laundry tub which then flows into the house drain. This is a normal way of 'taking up the slack'.
I'm surprised your plumbers didn't suggest it.
Good luck Nomess
plumbing in the wall is usually placed according to where your unit is going to be placed,..not the case here as i/you can see,..you should be able to get a piece of hose (from private appliance store) and an "insert coupling" (has little "barbs" on it so it stays put after you clamp it) and make your extension,...don't make it to long or to tight, you don't want tension on the hose,....baby sit this "custom repair" to insure it dosn't leak, ya know, watch a couple loads go thru it's cycle,......if you can't get this happening, you can have the drain in the wall moved,....not a big job if your drain is plastic. good luck.
If your Hotpoint washer is a similar design to mine, you'll not have a user-accessible pump filter, so - presuming you're happy doing it and the machine is unplugged from the electricity of course - I rectified by the following:
1. Switched the machine to 'pump-out' and got rid of as much water as possible. 2. Unplugged and disconnected the pump-out pipe from the house drainage and drained off as much additional water as possible into a bowl by gravity. 3. Removed the panel at the bottom of the back of the washer to expose the pump, the bottom of the drum and the main washer motor. 4. On the right-hand side, you'll see the pump with the grey (in my case) drain pipe and a wide black rubber pipe connected directly to the bottom of the drum by an adjustable metal clip 5. The wide black pipe attached to the drum contains a ball-filter and is probably the source of your problems - undo the clip (watching for water of course; though none was spilt when I did it) - and lower it slightly to reveal the filter and - hopefully - the odd sock or so! 6. Clear the filter of the obstructions (the plastic ball can be lifted out by the way to aid doing this) 7. Make sure the ball is back in place and connect the wide black pipe back up to the bottom of the drum - ensure the clip is secure 8. Replace the machines back panel 9. Connect the drain pipe back up to the house drainage 10. Do a test wash !
Hope that helps - in practice it took about 10 minutes all together and is pretty easy.
its the drainage problem .so either the drainer is getting blocked or the drainer is cracked and got faulty so needs to be replaced.
This often is a drain hose that is too low or a drain hose that has been pushed too far down inside the stand pipe....the water is actually siphoning out of the washer. Do not "seal" the drain hose to the house plumbing pipe, this will also allow the water to be siphoned out.
i have the same fault on the whirlpool AWM8163/3 it indicates a drainage problem so check the filter and pump housing and all the pipes for blockage, even the drain pipe, i have done all that but the problem still exists, I'm gunna have another crack at it now and i'll let you know how i get on