I have just moved to a new house. I have plumbed my washing machine into the existing pipe work that was left for I presume a washing machine. I turned it on and all seemed well until it was time to drain the the water, it made a sort of gurgling sound). Then it started beeping and flashing err20 (I think it was). So I looked up in the manual and it said that the outlet house may be blocked or bent. I checked it definitely wasn't bent.
The thing with my washing machine is that there is no obvious way to remove the hose as it is part of the back of the machine. There is no back cover to remove.
So can anyone please tell me how to unblock the outlet hose?
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Re: Err20 No drainage
Remove the hose from the outlet and lay it as flat as poss into a bowl. fill the machine up and see how much water starts to run out. if there is a lot then there may be a blocked outlet instead. the way to attempt to clear a waste hose out without removing it is to buy a flexi unblocker (like a bendywound wire) from a handyman shop and ram it up the hose. tone.
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The amount issues plumbing in a disswasher depends on what your set up is now really.
Adding in a new tap for the machine to take it's water from can be very easy. If you go to your local DIY store, you can buy a tap that clamps onto an existing pipe and as you tighten it down it pierces the pipe and seals its self at the same time, so the water take off can be very easy.
You may have an issue with the waste water drain, Presuming taht you are placing it near the sink, you may find that the drain from the sink has a blamked off connector for a drain hose for a dishwasher/washing machine. Some sinks have 2, some have 1, your washing machine may currently have its drain hose shoved town a dedicated drain pipe, in which case, the connector under the sink if it is there may well be free. So that's the water in and water out sorted, presumably you have a power socket somewhere nearby.
As far as bad for the environment. This depends on how effecient the machine is and how much you load it. If it''s a rubbish machine and you only ever wash one plate and a fork, then you're not doing the environment or your walley any favours. On the flipside, you could get one of the new Bosch Logicxx type machines taht can interactively look at how dirty the first rinse has come out and adjust its wash time, water temp and amount of water to best suite the wash you have just loadad.
if its just not working on spin cycle, check the door safety switch, if its faulty the machine won't drain or spin,, you can jumper the wires that go to the switch , and set it for spin to see if thats the problem,
Whirlpool now own Maytag and with a W/P top load machine there is an adaptor which reduces the diameter of the drain hose. Not knowing the diameters of your drain hose, or the plumbing of your house, I can't say for sure that this is a remedy. However it's worth trying. Contact a Whirlpool stockist and see if the adaptor is the correct size for your new Maytag. Or you may be able to drain the new machine into a laundry tub which then flows into the house drain. This is a normal way of 'taking up the slack'.
I'm surprised your plumbers didn't suggest it.
Good luck Nomess
Yes, you can raise to avoid the cut by raising shower as long as gravity drain can occur, i.e. you can drain the shower to connect to existing drain lines. Definately put the s-trap in, if no trap then plumbing gas comes back and shower will smell. Remember to put in a plumbing vent or tie in to existing vent.
plumbing in the wall is usually placed according to where your unit is going to be placed,..not the case here as i/you can see,..you should be able to get a piece of hose (from private appliance store) and an "insert coupling" (has little "barbs" on it so it stays put after you clamp it) and make your extension,...don't make it to long or to tight, you don't want tension on the hose,....baby sit this "custom repair" to insure it dosn't leak, ya know, watch a couple loads go thru it's cycle,......if you can't get this happening, you can have the drain in the wall moved,....not a big job if your drain is plastic. good luck.
If your Hotpoint washer is a similar design to mine, you'll not have a user-accessible pump filter, so - presuming you're happy doing it and the machine is unplugged from the electricity of course - I rectified by the following:
1. Switched the machine to 'pump-out' and got rid of as much water as possible. 2. Unplugged and disconnected the pump-out pipe from the house drainage and drained off as much additional water as possible into a bowl by gravity. 3. Removed the panel at the bottom of the back of the washer to expose the pump, the bottom of the drum and the main washer motor. 4. On the right-hand side, you'll see the pump with the grey (in my case) drain pipe and a wide black rubber pipe connected directly to the bottom of the drum by an adjustable metal clip 5. The wide black pipe attached to the drum contains a ball-filter and is probably the source of your problems - undo the clip (watching for water of course; though none was spilt when I did it) - and lower it slightly to reveal the filter and - hopefully - the odd sock or so! 6. Clear the filter of the obstructions (the plastic ball can be lifted out by the way to aid doing this) 7. Make sure the ball is back in place and connect the wide black pipe back up to the bottom of the drum - ensure the clip is secure 8. Replace the machines back panel 9. Connect the drain pipe back up to the house drainage 10. Do a test wash !
Hope that helps - in practice it took about 10 minutes all together and is pretty easy.
its the drainage problem .so either the drainer is getting blocked or the drainer is cracked and got faulty so needs to be replaced.
This often is a drain hose that is too low or a drain hose that has been pushed too far down inside the stand pipe....the water is actually siphoning out of the washer. Do not "seal" the drain hose to the house plumbing pipe, this will also allow the water to be siphoned out.