Question about Washing Machines
Removed 3 screws but cant remove bottom to install belt
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Amana washer belt replacement
Steps for Replacing the Belt
Nut driver or socket set.
Torex screw driver.
1. Unplug the power cord from the
electric socket and remove the
2. Disconnect the power coupling
from the motor.
3. Disconnect the 2 hoses from the
pump. Be aware that the pump
still contains between 1 and
2 cups of water, and it WILL
all come out.
4. Remove the belt from the idler
arm, pushing the belt UNDER the
idler arm. Yes, your hands will
now be quite greasy.
5. Remove the belt from the main
transmission by pushing the belt
under the transmission pulley.
6. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the
motor assembly to the washing
machine body. Remove the motor
assembly with belt from the
7. Turn the motor upside-down. With
the torex screwdriver, remove the
3 bolts that hold the pump to the
motor. Remove the pump from the
motor (in my case, the motor shaft
fit into a slot in the pump; while
it was snug, it was not melted or
rusted, and did just come out).
8. Clean pump and motor as desired.
9. Install new belt and reverse the
steps to re-install.
Posted on Nov 12, 2007
SOURCE: maytag washer repair
I had the repair guys out 3 months ago maytag paid for labor I paid $150 for seal and bearings, tub froze and belt broke. the tub now is making the loud screams that others complain about I contacted maytag and reapir servce and talked with the tech. this machine is a piece of S$%^ the seal fails on a regular basis and bearings get water in them. I just missed my 3 month waranty and will not pay for that repair again. people at home depot agree that this machine is trouble. the machine must be taken completely down from the top to replace the bearings and or the belt. the tub must be removed. If you call maytag they will pay for the labor but not the parts.
Posted on Jan 11, 2008
This is specifically for a Maytag Legacy SAV515DAWW, but may apply to the whole Legacy line.
There is only one drive belt on this washer and it is not accessible directly from the bottom as a pan forms the bottom of the case. All work can be performed through the bottom front panel, once it is removed.
Before one starts, an overview is helpful. The motor for the washer is bounted just behind the access panel. Attached to the shaft at the motor bottom is the drive pully for the drum belt, along with the belt tensioning pully and spring. Below that is the pump assembly attached by three screws in the shafts, which are accessible only from the bottom. What you must do, is remove the pump by unfastening four hex-head bolts, then rotate the motor and pump assembly bottom upwards to the front, so the bottom of the shafts containing the torx head screws fastening the pump are accessible.
While everything is all together it is helpful to notice that the far support for the pump is in almost a direct line with the motor shaft and the tum pully shaft. When you reassemble the components, this vertical pump support must go between the belt. As you face the washer, the tensioning pully will ride on the outside of the right side of the belt.
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Pull it out from the wall, so it may be tilted back at about a 45 degree angle and will not fall foreward.
3 Remove the two hex head screws on the right and left bottom front of the washer. The panel should lift out from the bottom, Two pins hold the top of the panel in.
4. Examine the mechanism as described above.
5. Detach (Unhook) the tensioning pulley spring from the front of the bracket above the pump..
It is not necessary to remove any of the hoses. There is adequate flexibility and slack for replacing the belt.
6. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the galvanized motor bracket to the frame.
7. Rotate the motor back, so the pump bottom faces the front.
8. Remove the three torx head screws in the pump support arms.
9. Detach the pump from the motor. Gently pry it off or gently strike the body of the pump away from the motor with a soft faced mallet.
10. Place the new belt on the motor pully and reinstall the pump, so the leg closes to the tub pulley is inside the two sides of the belt. Reinstall the pump screws in the plastic shafts.
11. Reinstall the motor and fasten the bolts.
12. Make sure the tensioning pulley is to your right of the belt and then side your hands to the rear and slip the belt under the drum pulley and completely around it.
13 Feed the belt onto the drum pulley. I did this by reaching back with my left hand and feeding the belt, coming from the motor pulley, into the drum pulley, then slowly rotating the right side of the drum to me with my right hand.
14 Check to ensure the tensioning pulley is to the right of the belts, then reattach the spring, so the pulley forces the righthand belt to the left.
15. Set the washer upright, open the lid and rotate the drum around twice using your hands. This will help seat the belt on the pulleys and ensure the drum is not stuck.
16. Make sure the cycle switch is pulled out (set to off) and plug the power in.
17. Set on a wash cycle and looking in the bottom , check for proper operation. If the motor appears to be stalling, immediately turn the unit off. Rotate to tub some more by hand and test for operation. If it still doesn't work, see help, your problem is more than just a belt!
18. If everything seems to work, toss in a test load of laundry and pat yourself on the back for being able to save some money!
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
there could be 2 things that i know of
first one is that someone bended the door to much and the joint's are eather lose or out of place
the second thing is that the door sealing rubber is out of place, you need to putt it back to place
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 07, 2014 | Washing Machines
Oct 16, 2012 | Maytag Washing Machines
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.
Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)
Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.
Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.
Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)
Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)
Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.
Replace pump screws.
Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.
Replace motor screws and connector.
Re-attach hoses on pump.
Button up cabinet.
The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.
Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.
Drive pump leaked
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.
1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on
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