Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: My hoover tumble dryer hnv
I've had exactly the same problem with this model and nearly traded it in as it was getting so noisy. However - it can be fixed! You need some general purpose grease from Halfors etc and some WD-40 and a philps screwdriver. Just follow these steps to get the front panel off the dryer: Instructions to lubricate the pulley wheels on the Hoover HNV380 dryer 1. Disconnect from the mains 2. Unscrew screws at the top of the rear of the dryer which allows the top panel of the dryer to slide backwards out. 3. To take off the front of the dryer, unscrew the screws at the top of the inside front panel, next lay the dryer onto it?s back and open the dryer?s door? there are 4 screws on one side and two on the other ? leave the outer 2 screws on the side that has 4 screws which keep the door on and unscrew 2 inner screws and the two screws on the other side. Then finally there are 3 more screws on the under panel to unscrew. This allows the front panel to be moved enough to see inside the dryer. 4. Check the belt that wraps around the drum is ok and centrally in position. 5. Under the drum the belt wraps around the spindle of the motor and is guided by the 2 pulley wheels. These wheels are probably the main culprit of the noise and can sometimes be reproduced by pulling at the belt through the wheels. Put plenty of grease around the pulleys and keep turning the belt to ensure that the grease gets into every bit of the wheels. 6. Then spray WD-40 around the pulleys for good measure and also into the motor and spindle. Make sure there are no more squeaks when you turn the drum by pulling at the belt trough the pulley wheels. 7. Re-assemble the dryer by going back trough the steps in reverse. 8. Just to be certain once the dryer is re-assembled undo the silver cover on the back of the dryer and spay more WD-40 around the plastic fan and into the motor through the fan. I reckon that this should last for a good 12 months or more before starting to squeek again - so far it's been 2 months and sounds as good as new Good Luck
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Remove the electrical box that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, and the felt seal.
You may be able to replace the felt seal at this time, or you may have to buy a new one and install it.
I would also recommend that you do the following while you have gone this far.
Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Be sure to pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy later when you go to reinstall the belt and drum
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
I hope this helps
Posted on Oct 19, 2009
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
Got a similar problem with an HNC172. The supplier said it is the water indicator sensor that is not working. He fixed it! It still stops!!! Clear lint from the trap in the door. Empty what little water there is in the tank, then make sure it has a good shove to get it back into place and the tube/catch is well joined back. Also take out the condenser unit above water tank, stick in the bath and put the shower hose through it to clear lint. Recommend getting a tea strainer over the plug hole or you block your drain as quite a bit comes out. It helped for a while, but it still has problems. Might be the thermostat for the heater? check the error codes. They flash a different number of times within 15 seconds to indicate which problem is happening.
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
Check this site out www.repairclinic.com and enter in your model number you should be able to find the part there .
Posted on Nov 24, 2012
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