Question about Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

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Need to Replace Heat ELements

Rudd UBHA-17J15SUDA
I know at least one of the heat elements is burned in half. How do I remove and replace the existing elements?

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You remove the screws that hold on the base plate that has the sequencers mounted on it. pulling it out so the elements clear the sides of the unit. once you remove it you can easily see the heating element coils which you can purchase a restring kit fairly cheap at your local appliance parts store. just remember to stretch it out uniformally the same length as the old one, reinstall the heat kit the same way you removed it. kit comes with new ceramic gromets if some are damaged. these units do have a 5 yr warranty on the heat strips.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a rudd UHLA-3617JA high achiever air handeler, works fine except the electric heater will not come fan starts normally, is this a fuse/breaker or failed electric element problem, how can i tell


It is either the element, sequencer (or contactor/relay), or power to the switching element. 5KW Elements normally Ohm out @ around 10 Ohms when they are good. Everything you need to check requires a multimeter.

Jan 21, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

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RUDD Model UBHC-21J18SFA: Emergency heat not automatically engaging. Used to work, now I must manually turn the thermostat to "Emergency Heat" to get the elements to engage. What's broken?


Sounds like your Auxillary heat is out (the element that is energized when an air to air heat pump can't keep up with the thermostat setpoints).

Jan 30, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

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I have a Rudd A/C-Heat Pump, model UBHA-14J11NFAAI. My Air-Handler fan is inop, with it switched to A/C or Fan only. My thermo seems to be ok. proper low voltage on all of the wiring down to unit. Had to...


Hello,,there is a way to comfirm that but you will need a meter that reads microfarads, after discharging the capacitor with a insulated screwdriver you simply put you meter leads to each terminal on the capacitor with tje meter set to microfarads, if the capacitor is good it should read the same microfarad reading thats printed on the capacitor, if not replace the capacitor.

Apr 26, 2011 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

1 Answer

How do two thermostats in a water heater work?


If it's and electric hot water heater, there are 2- elements. One near the top of the tank and one near the bottom. This helps the water in the tank to heat evenly. On each element there is a thermostat. You have to remove the element covers on the side of tank to see them. Each thermostat, can be set up or down, but their settings should match. The normal, safe setting is 110 degrees. That will prevent accidental scalding.

Over time, the burner elements will fail to heat and will need to be replaced. It's not difficult to do, but you will need a water heater thermostat wrench to do it. They are inexpensive and can be purchased at any hardware store or home center. If you ever have to replace them (If one fails, replace both) I recommend stainless steel elements. They cost a little more, but will last longer. Particularly, if your water has a high mineral content (i.e Well Water).

To help lengthen their life span, it is recommended the the tank turned off (electric and water intake) and emptied and flushed at least one a year. It to, is an easy process, but takes about an hour to do, depending on your tank's capacity. To do this, all you need is a garden hose long enough to run outside or to a floor drain.

Hope this helps you understand how the Thermostats work.

Please let me know.

Feb 16, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

HEAT PUMP


It is not normal to have a loud buzz associated with the electric heat. Try turning the heat off and running the fan only to see if the buzz continues. The buzz could be coming from any number of sources including an electrical component, the blower wheel, a loose fastener...etc.
The temporary smoke and smell could have been the dust burning off the element if the elements have not been used in a long time. However, if the elements have been running, it could be something got loose in your system and stuck between the blower and the heating elements.....for example, the wiring diagram could have come loose and worked it's way through the wheel. I've also seen owner's manuals left in the air handler that eventually got stuck in the blower. This should be inspected to ensure there is not a fire hazard.

I hope this helps and good luck. :-)

Feb 24, 2010 | Friedrich Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My heat pump does well in 35 to 40 degree weather, however, not good at all 2 or 0! i discovered that only half of my aux heat strips are working. Voltage is good on all 6 strips. Ammeter showing no load...


Turn off the heat pump, turn thermostat as high as it
will go. Sometimes they place a SCR Switch in
Line that can vary how elements come on.

Another possibility is each element might have a
reset high limit, you could start there. Then check to
see if the two elements are open, if thats the case
they will have to be replaced

Jan 09, 2010 | Weather King 10AJA2501AH Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have a Rudd Achiever 14 and I want to know if


Take the front panel off the air handler and look for a heat element. You should notice controls and relays with larger wiring to it. It may not have any heat but you can add it.

Jan 05, 2010 | Ruud Handler Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have a Rudd ubha and have been using the emergency heat for a couple weeks because the aux. heat won't work. Now I need the A.C. but the unit outside won't turn on. We replaced the control panal and it...


Did you replace the defrost board out in the outside unit? Or did you replace the control board just on the airhandler? You need to check if the board outside is functioning. Also, put the unit in cool and check to see if the outside unit is being called to come on. What could of happened is the unit was the compressor went out and that's why it didn't work in Aux. and only in emergency. I would just recommend checking the outside for issues since the inside unit is operating in emer. It could possibly be the tstat also. Just buy a tstat for a heat pump and follow the instructions. The key is to label your wires with what color is going to what terminal (r,w,g,o,y etc...) and then use the new tstat instructions. Better yet, buy the same brand t-stat. Hope this helps.

Apr 04, 2009 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Heat unit not blowing hot


Chances are the thermal fuse has blown on the two elements. This is very common on electric furnaces.
There may also be a reset-able temperature sensor.

Turn of the power and access the electrical connections of the heater elements. First, look for burned connections to any of the components, all the way back to and including the sequencer relays. It's very common for these to burn as well.

If all looks OK, then look for a round button about the size of a quarter on each of the elements. If there is a red button on top, press it, then test to see if all the elements heat up. If they don't, or there is not a reset button, then it's probably the thermal fuse, a little silver bullet shaped piece about 1/2 inch long, and 1/8 inch in diameter. Usually you must remove the burner from the heater casing by disconnecting the wires, removing the two screws, and sliding the element frame out.

The final problem can be one or both of the elements has broken, or one has broken, and the other has a blown thermal fuse.

It could also be blown power fuses which provide power for those particular elements. Check all the larger diameter fuses, and if any are bad, look deeper for the cause of the fuse failure. REPLACE WITH ONLY FUSES OF THE SAME RATING!

The sequencers have a habit of failing as well, and are harder to test. If all the above checks out OK, then replace the sequencers.

Please reply if you have additional questions. Please include the make and model of furnace as well.

Jan 16, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Intertherm heater


You should have 24vac at the 2 lowest terminals 1 on each side of the sequencer with a call for heat.( that is the control voltage,the terminals are usually double spade brass in color) If you have the control voltage after about 30-120 seconds the sequencer should close.The voltage reading across the sequencer should go from 230vac to 0 volts when the sequencer closes.If you have control voltage and 230vac on each side of the sequencer then the sequencer is bad.It is beast if replacing the sequencer replace by moving 1 wire at a time from the old to the new.And ALWAYS make sure power is truned off.

Dec 28, 2007 | Heating & Cooling

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